O.K. calling all machinest/conversion freaks, I am looking to buy a friends old lathe for doing my own work ( prop hubs etc.) When I say old I mean real old it's an old southbend 9"x36" leather belt drive and you have to change gear set in the headstock to change thread pitch if cutting threads. Overall condition of machine is good for its age (headstock bearings are tight & ways are not groved or badly worn no broken levers etc. ) manufactured approx 1920,southbend list as obsolete/no parts, but some(most)parts available on internet. I can buy for $300 u.s. --------problem is I can buy 7"x10" chinese import with modern controls and replacement parts available for about $360u.s. at harbour freight,bear in mind I am only a hobbyist and don't need a great deal of precision to be happy PLEASE ANY ADVISE? thanks cal.45acp

GET THE SOUTHBEND!!!....Bob

I've got the Homier 7x12 ,it;s very simular to the harbor freight.These are both made by TAIG and are excellent qualiity.If you don't believe me type in 7x12 minilathe in your search engine and let me know what you find.[&:]

the HF lathe 7x10 which is what I started with and still use it works fine for small prop hubs and such but if you go the south bend you can make milling attachments and all kinds of things that the 7x10 doesn't have the power or space to make either one is good for hobby work

Go with the new machine, even if it is a product of free trade [:@]you will get the desired results quicker and easier for only 60 bucks. I have the next gen South Bend with quick change gearing for the feed rates in my home shop, but I learned on one similar to the one you can get for 300. BTW I have been a tool maker for 20 years now and any who choose to disagree with me it is your right... wrong but still your right.

cal,

I am not familiar with the details of either of the lathes that you mentioned, but if possible, try to pick a lathe with 5-C collets. 5-C is pretty much the standard for small lathes. They make work holding a lot simpler.

Also, try to get some training at a local Vo-Tech school. Lathes, even small ones, are dangerous to operate. When using my engine lathe, I never wear loose clothing, ties, rings, watches, etc. These things can get caught in the revolving work, chuck, attachments, etc. and cause serious injury.

Best of luck with your projects.

Bruce

I vote for the South Bend. It's been around 80 years and will probably last another 80. I've also been in the toolmaking trade for over 20 years. I use a 50 year old Atlas lathe at home for my conversions. Just my opinion, I may be wrong.

Nashcat

now i'm really confused about a 50/50 split in this thread as to which machine to buy---------more info on old lathe headstock is not bearing supported but runs in a babbit (lead not brass or bronze) and the original motor died and has been replaced with a new one , old motor would reverse with a switch for cutting threads,new motor will not reverse and is wired to 110v------don't know if wrong type of motor or if buddy of mine wired wrong cal.45acp

I started out learning the machine trade on one of these South Bends you are talking about and that was 43 years ago.

Enjoy,

Jim

You don't need reverse to cut threads, unless you are cutting left-hand threads. Compare the weight of the two lathe. I think that you'll find the South Bend to be mostly cast iron and the import to consist of a high percentage of pot metal. The biggest problem that I've had with import equipment is the handles breaking off. Just my opinion, but I just got home (1:00 AM) from work where I ran a 15 by 60" Clausing lathe for about 4 hours tonight. No pot metal in that puppy.

Nashcat

Guys keep in mind he is new to the machine trades and the available SB machine was built at least 60 years ago and for 60 bucks he can get a new tight machine. Also think about changing gears for every thread and feed rate [:'(]vs. a selector box on the new machine. The only time you change gears on that clausing (excellent machine IMO) is for some metrics. I like having reverse for backing taps out of holes among other things. If the SB were recently rebuilt and had quick change I would also recomend it but then he would be spending way more than $300 wouldn't he. I am not against them, I learned on one and have one at home. Just for the ease of learning and money spent and the amount of time the machine will be used the import will handle the job very well.

How would you chuck up the flywheel on that 7x10. I ask because a buddy has one and ended up using two centers to hold it, then cut the vanes off. I just recent bought an Enco 9x20 for this kind of stuff, like it so far. But its considerably more than what he is looking at especially when you start adding accessories.
Edwin

Work holding is a loaded question. There are a million ways to do things. Without dimensions of the flywheel and what your chuck looks like I don't have a definite answer. Two ctrs and dogs are fine for light cutting, if your doing more than two or three you may want to make a arbor and run it just like it would be on the engine or you may be able to hold it on your face plate. All kind of options. To avoid all the confusion from everyone feel free to pm me and I will do my best to help. Remember too many cooks spoil the stew.

You are correct about tooling costing money, it never ends.

I already have arbor for flywheel,old ryobi longshaft crank with bobweight removed,fits in chuck with plenty of surface area to grip; bolt on flywheel and you are ready to rock, but the fastest way to do a flywheel is I put a 10" cut off blade in my table saw and set the fence to cut the fins flush with flywheel surface works great looks just like a lathe did it, as of now I'm leaning towards buying the chinese import BTW harbor now has a9x20 for $799 U.S. not on sale looked at it today very interesting

Doesn't matter which one you buy, just keep using it until you're confortable with it. Then you'll find it has all sorts of uses in other hobbies also. Like making match bushings for 45ACPs, but that's another story.

Nashcat

tools, tools, tools! that's the real cost. what do you get with the new lathe? what is your friend going to include with the old lathe?


dave

cal,
I have that lathe from harbor freight, except mine is from enco. Just got it about a month ago. It pretty decent, had to spend some money on accessories (dont know how much yet). I plane on doing conversion parts and retracts for the local guys. Also burned out on my paying job. Hopefully this will pay for RC in my retirement. Just got a used mill from a friend thats buying a better one. Its a big harbor freight jobie and am still collecting accessories for it.
Edwin

Old lathe has 3 jaw & 4 jaw chuck,1 knurling tool ,faceplate ,various drive dogs,2 dead centers, 1 stock support( not sure correct term) ,square nut wrenchs,and chuck wrenches, all in all just about what you would get with a new machine except for 4 jaw and knurl

My first lathe was a 9x20 enco and it was donated to a charity as it pas a POS. Then went to a logon 10x24 and finally a 12x36 enco. My vote is for the south bend hands down.

I have a Harbor Freight 9X20, and they need a little work to get them to their real potential. Once a few improvements are make they are good machines. Search the internet on 9X20 lathe to find lots of info.

Yep! Out of the box mine was not real impressive. But like was said, once I spent a day or two adjusting it, I'm content with it. Sorta like buying an ARF. You gotta work with it to get to your expectations. The price was ok to me. I didnt want to use the 7x10 cause it looked a little on the small side since I wanted to be able to make struts with it.
Edwin