Help! Homelite 30cc conversion part needed
#1
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Well I just purchased a 30cc Homelite conversion engine with C&H ignition from an individual. After I received the motor yesterday, I cut out all new gaskets and cleaned her up. After getting her back together to test fire I overtightened the last bolt that holds the velocity stack on and consequently cracked the composite adapter that holds the stack and tilotson carb together. Anyone know who I could contact to get a new adapter? I know Zenoah has a part like this available but am unsure if the bolt pattern would be the same, I believe it's call sure shot linkage(or somehting like that.)
Thanks!
Doug
Thanks!
Doug
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From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA
Dougboiler 91,I think you are looking for one of these units.Here it is:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...rodID=ZEN12310
Another option is to get yourself a "twister" manifold from Carr Precision which will also do the sane thing as the Zenoah unit.Scroll down to the bottom of the page to find the information on this unit.It sells for $12US if your interested.Sure makes setup a lot easier.Here's their web site:
http://www.carrprecision.com/Pages/prod02.htm
Carb spacing shouldn't be a problem as most of the carbs on these size engines are either Walbro or Zama and are od similiar size.They are spaced the same between the bolts usually.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...rodID=ZEN12310
Another option is to get yourself a "twister" manifold from Carr Precision which will also do the sane thing as the Zenoah unit.Scroll down to the bottom of the page to find the information on this unit.It sells for $12US if your interested.Sure makes setup a lot easier.Here's their web site:
http://www.carrprecision.com/Pages/prod02.htm
Carb spacing shouldn't be a problem as most of the carbs on these size engines are either Walbro or Zama and are od similiar size.They are spaced the same between the bolts usually.
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From: GreenvilleMi.
You can get any parts you need for your Homelight at Outdoor distrubutors. If yours came out of a chain saw, I think they refer to it in the parts diagram as "air dam". You will need to trim it to save weight, and make it look nice, but it's only about $2. I think
http://www.outdoordistributors.com/
http://www.outdoordistributors.com/
#6
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Carr Precision seems to have what I need. When I corresponed with the original owner of this motor, he informed me that I might have to do some boring out because this engine has been suped up. I believe he mentioned .625 was the diameter to use. Any thoughts on how I could do this without a machine shop? Thanks to all who have replied. In less than 24 hours I know what I need to do, and have a source or two for parts. Thanks! Doug
#7

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On the straight pull version which comes from the electric start Homelite weed whacker, the channel for the pulse signal comes mighty close to the throttle bore (especially on a bored out one). Be careful of this fact. The regular insulator doesn't seem to get into this problem when bored out.
I know from personal experience, a machine reamer doesn't do well for enlarging the hole because the plastic will tend to expand when the reamer is in it. I use the angle pull models and they came from Carr already bored out.
Compare your old one with the new one.
Enjoy,
Jim
I know from personal experience, a machine reamer doesn't do well for enlarging the hole because the plastic will tend to expand when the reamer is in it. I use the angle pull models and they came from Carr already bored out.
Compare your old one with the new one.
Enjoy,
Jim
#8

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I just use a carbide bit, or even a drum sanding roll and the dremel to open mine up. Yes, be careful not to get too close to the pulse hole, though if you do, you can plug the pulse hole with JB Weld and plumb an external pulse line to the carb. Another area that gets close is near one of the mounting screw bosses. It can get real thin for gasket sealing there. What I do is use a screw and a collar in the hole to protect it. Then fill the area up to the collar with JB Weld. Scrape it flat with a razor blade before it sets up completely, then block sand it flat after it is hard. This gives more gasket suface area in this thin spot.
Hope this helps, sorry no pics. I believe there are some pictures on this page that are similar to how I do it:
http://www.shark-racing.com/Ingles/T...acaoMoting.htm (Be patient, it is slow to load.)
Good luck,
AV8TOR
Hope this helps, sorry no pics. I believe there are some pictures on this page that are similar to how I do it:
http://www.shark-racing.com/Ingles/T...acaoMoting.htm (Be patient, it is slow to load.)
Good luck,
AV8TOR



