Railridr

I was looking at Homelite's website and noticed that they are selling a new model 30cc blower.
The model is the Yard Broom II™ Gas Blower UT08110. Home Depot online has several 30cc Homelite blowers for sale. The UT08110 lists for 79.97. I have not seen this model blower yet, so I can not verify if the muffler and carburetor match the existing 25 and 30cc Homelites. The part number for the short block for this blower is UP03131, but it costs about $100.00.

Gene Chernosky

My Feedback: (182)

This is the new emmissions friendlier 30cc model...thank Uncle Sam for that! It is the same on the outside...the insides are the same too...except for the cylinder ports. The new engine has four ports instead of two. Problem is that they end up being smaller and with different timing than the older 30cc models so it doesn't generate as much power...even with a big carb and free-flow muffler.

Good luck finding an older 30cc short block, too. They are probably out by now at Homelite...they had less than 10 last Fall. You might get lucky and find one at a parts house somewhere though. Of course if you have a lawn equipment repair place around you could check their junk-pile...I've found two good ones in 'left for dead' weadeaters. The model you are looking for is a 830. Old blowers occassionally had a 30cc in them, too.

Happy hunting!

Railridr

Thanks for the information Gene. I have one of the new YardBroom II blowers that I found at a land fill. The UT number on it is 08120, and it was manufactured in September of 2004. It has seen a hard life, probably with a roofing crew, and is currently not running. I have not had time to tear it down this week and see what is wrong with it, but I can tell from pulling the rope that It has very little compression.

You mention that the ports are different, and that the New one has 4 transfer port instead of two ports. Is the total area of the 4 ports less than the older two port model? I realize that the timing is probably really conservative. I will probably change the timing, and widen the ports a little, if it is necessary.

Gene Chernosky

My Feedback: (182)

The best thing you could do in order to get something out of it would be to buy a new 'old' cylinder and a set of Frank Bowman rings...problem solved!

Let me do some digging and I might have the part number on the cylinder.

Gene Chernosky

My Feedback: (182)

OK...here's the part number. Keep in mind that this might be an old number that has been changed. A good parts house should have the cross reference guide to make it a good number so you can get this part.

A07146A - 30cc Cylinder kit (includes new muffler and back cover gaskets).

If you buy rings from Frank you will have to grind/file down the locator pins on the piston slightly to make his rings fit. Stock rings leave a gap here, Franks' cover that gap giving higher compression = more power! Frank is a member here on RCU...a gentleman to deal with, too!

If 'stock' Homie rings are fine with you, OK...here's their part number...you'll need two.

01379 - 30cc Ring

Now...I hope you can make that poor, left for dead, blower come back to life!

Happy tinkering!

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Gene,

There is an old style, and a newer style 30cc cylinder. (Not counting the newest smog style) The second version, (not the newest one they are using now) had larger transfer ports. Do you know if the number you provided has the larger transfer ports??

Thanks in advance,
AV8TOR

Railridr

Thanks for the numbers Gene. I tore the blower down tonight. I found that the woodruff key on this motor is cast into the flywheel, and on this blower the key sheared off. That is why the motor was at the dump. The engine has a bit of compression, and has hardly been run. I need a new flywheel, or an electronic ignition for this one.

I looked at the ports, and I think they could be worked by cutting the bridge between the ports. I will have to shelve getting this one running until I finish up on the 25CC homelite's that I am working on right now. I will get some pictures up tomorrow once I get the engine cleaned up and the head bolts broken free.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

People have been known to place the flywheel in the correct position with some lock tite and go with it?

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

Why not dremel a square slot on the flywheel where the sheared off key is, so you can put a regular woodruff key there? Heck, you might be able to cut it slightly offset from the stock location to advance the spark timing a little. You might pick up a few top end RPMs.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Railridr, I'm a bit confused here. The UT 08120 number you gave corresponds to a 25cc engine, not a 30cc. Also, if the "bridge" you are talking about is in the exhaust port, this is further proof that this is a 25cc engine. Also, you cannot remove that bridge without pinning the piston so the ring edge cannot enter the exhaust port.

I have been told both ways about converting a 25cc to a 30cc by just replacing the cylinder. Some boat guys told me it should be no problem, others that have done it said they had problems with vibration, and ocassionally hole mountings not being right. For myself, I decided to get an engine that was 30cc to begin with to avoid potential problems. I really like mine by the way; good power at the same weight as a 25cc.

Once again, if anyone knows how to source the part number for the second generation 30cc cylinder with the large transfer ports, I would really like to know. (Thanks!)

Hope this helps,
AV8TOR

BillS

Volfy,

A few thousands on the keyway location makes a big difference in timing. How would one ever determine the correct location to cut the keyway? On a Briggs engine the key when sheared by .010” or so will not run.

Bill

Gene Chernosky

My Feedback: (182)

Sorry, but you are beyond my Homie parts knowledge here. Personally I would like to know about the one with the larger transfer ports. Bigger ports mean better flow which means MORE POWER...ar, ar, ar. If someone comes up with this info please post it here! ...or email me directly! I might have to get with Homelite on this one. If I find out I'll post it!


and Josh...forget the flywheel! Use a CH ignition system! ...you won't be sorry you did!

Gene Chernosky

My Feedback: (182)

I just talked with Greg at Homelite. The A07146A (which is a good number) part is the only 30cc cylinder he had knowledge of and it is no longer available...bummer! You might be able to find one at a parts distributor...but don't count on it! Per Greg, the newest 30cc cylinder has the same port height in the cylinder, just smaller ports. If you had a way to open the ports up to make them bigger you could probably do better with the new 30cc cylinder since it has 4 ports...I'm not sure on this though as I have never seen the insides of the newer cylinder.

These people are going to make us buy Zenoah, etc., yet[>:]

Gene Chernosky

My Feedback: (182)

Another phone call to Homelite...I talked to George this time. (1-800-242-4672, then 2, then 2)

Actually the best part numbers for the cylinder are UP07146 or UP07146A...he said they are both the SAME part...no difference in the ports. He said that these were IT for the 30cc engine. If by chance any of you out there KNOW FOR A FACT that this is incorrect...please share the info with us including the part number. I for one would certainly be interested in that info.

George said they had 129 of the cylinders in stock and also had 52 of the UP00386 30cc non-clutch re-power short blocks in stock. Both of those are the older, more powerful 30cc's parts.

The phone number to get these parts is 1-866-472-8152.

Railridr

av8tor,

This motor has 4 transfer ports, but they are very, very small. The "Bridge" that I am refering to in this case is the material that is between the 2 small transfer ports. The exhaust port on this motor is wide open with no bridge. The piston on this engine has 2 rings instead of the one ring that the 25cc has. Looking at this cylinder I think that a little work with an end mill will do the trick. Also on this cylinder the top of the exhaust port has an arc to it. I am thinking that if I cut the top of the exhaust port straight that it may help the engine breathe a little.

I will take pictures tonight if I can get the head bolts broken free. They must have used some serious torque on those bolts when they assembled the engine.

Gene,
I have an electronic ignition from CH for a long shaft Homelite. I have tried to set it up on my 25cc homelite's. The problem is that with the prop adapter installed, I can not tighted the prop nut down...I run out of threads. I am using a Master Airscrew 16x8 for testing, but I was wondering if a APC has a thicker hub on the propeller. Has anyone else had this issue?

Gene Chernosky

My Feedback: (182)

Head bolts??? I guess they did change the engine somewhat. Used to be there were three bolts connecting the case to the cylinder...no separate head. Is it still the same? ...or?

A threading die can cure the problem you are having with the shaft. I think the long shaft is a 3/8" thread...not sure though. I know the short shaft is 5/16"-24.

Yea...I went to the webpage for the parts (www.ordertree.com) and they are quite proud of them...ie they are expensive!

Railridr

This 30cc motor has not changed from the old 30cc motor. When I said head bolt I should have said cylinder bolts.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Hi guys,

The different transfer ports that I am talking about can be seen here: http://testfly.0catch.com/homelite/e...lindermod.html

Go to the bottom of the page and click on the link that says "Old style 30cc cylinder", and the one next to it that says "New Style 30cc cylinder". It shows the differences. Note that we are not talking about this newest "smog" cylinder in this case.

Take care,
AV8TOR

Railridr

Hey all,

I finally got the cylinder off of the engine after I found the proper tools. The first two pictures should give you a comparison of the new 30cc cylinder and the old 25cc cylinder. This should give you a good perspective on how the transfer ports look on the new 30cc. The third picture is the exhaust port on the 30cc. It looks like it needs some work to me. Finally a shot of the piston. It looks like the rings have a slight rounded edge to me.

Railridr

I did weigh the New 30cc head vs the 25cc head. The 30cc head is 2 ounces heavier.

Gene Chernosky

My Feedback: (182)

THANKS for the link AV8TOR!!! ...that's the kind of stuff I like to find!

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

Its hard to exactly tell, but the total volume of the ports in the old and new style apear the same. So they should flow the same.
If you had good machine tools you could remove the bridge and see what happens. But you would have slower velocity in the ports and lower crankcase compression.

Railridr

The total volume does appear to be the same, but The two cylinders pictured together are of the 25cc Homelite on the left and the 30cc Homelite on the right. I took a picture of the 30cc Cylinder next to the 25cc cylinder for reference. If you follow the link that av8tor posted you can see what the ports looked like on the "old" style 30cc homelite and the "new" style 30cc homelite. Those are the pictures that should be used to compare the new "smog" style 30cc Cylinder to. If you use those pictures for reference, then removing the bridge should make the port volume close to what it used to be with the '"new" style cylinder.

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

The homie 25/30 were the same casting they just bored out the cylinder more. Thats why a 30 weighs less than a 25.
The port volume on a 30 was less than a 25.

Gene Chernosky

My Feedback: (182)

a VERY good point.

I have the older older 30cc cylinder and the porting is fine. IMO, improving flow in other areas will improve the engine's performance as well, or more, than having bigger ports in the cylinder. I port the intake area and stuff the back plate as much as possible. I end up grinding ~3/32" off of the end of the crankpin to maximize stuffing. That portion of the pin isn't even used...it's just there. Stuffing the engine allows a much lower volume in the case which improves the velocity of the flow. Faster velocity of the flow will give more top end.

All-in-all...there are a LOT of ways to squeeze power out of these engines. The trick is how to incorporate as many of the mods as possible into one package.