Poulan 46
07-04-2005 | 08:26 AM
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From: allentown, PA
Poulan 46
I've got an odd problem with my poulan 46. CH ign & CH carb adapter. 20X10. 27BTDC The engine start easy and runs well for the first 1 min, then it starts spitting out the carb and runs very rough. I've changes carbs and ign boxs. I've not had a solid run since building the motor. Any Ideas?
07-04-2005 | 09:49 AM
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From: San Antonio,
TX
RE: Poulan 46
Hi Flyer,
I have a few questions to ask which will help us solve the problem. From what you say, it sounds like a temp induced problem. Was the engine new or used before conversion? It could have a stuck or broken ring if it was used. Did you diassemble it before conversion if used? Is the engine cold when you said you first started it? Is the engine temp very high after running? Could be too lean, air leak in manifold area or too large a prop. Something could cause over heating and internal binding. What material is the carb adapter made, metalic or insulator? I am concerned with heat transfer to the carb. When you shut it down, does it turn over smoothly? Turn it slowly after running and see if it binds at all. You already eliminated a temp problem in the ignition box, which is good. IF it is overheating, try opening the needles some. If it is binding when hot, dissamble and look for ring problem or rubbing marks. Increase oil percentage or go to to a premium oil. Make sure that the plug tip is something close to tan in color after shutdown without idling. Light color indicates lean, dark is rich. I know that you know most of this, other readers might not. I hope that I gave you some ideas.
Dave
I have a few questions to ask which will help us solve the problem. From what you say, it sounds like a temp induced problem. Was the engine new or used before conversion? It could have a stuck or broken ring if it was used. Did you diassemble it before conversion if used? Is the engine cold when you said you first started it? Is the engine temp very high after running? Could be too lean, air leak in manifold area or too large a prop. Something could cause over heating and internal binding. What material is the carb adapter made, metalic or insulator? I am concerned with heat transfer to the carb. When you shut it down, does it turn over smoothly? Turn it slowly after running and see if it binds at all. You already eliminated a temp problem in the ignition box, which is good. IF it is overheating, try opening the needles some. If it is binding when hot, dissamble and look for ring problem or rubbing marks. Increase oil percentage or go to to a premium oil. Make sure that the plug tip is something close to tan in color after shutdown without idling. Light color indicates lean, dark is rich. I know that you know most of this, other readers might not. I hope that I gave you some ideas.
Dave
07-05-2005 | 08:36 AM
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From: allentown, PA
RE: Poulan 46
ORIGINAL: davewallace
Hi Flyer,
I have a few questions to ask which will help us solve the problem. From what you say, it sounds like a temp induced problem. Was the engine new or used before conversion? It could have a stuck or broken ring if it was used. Did you diassemble it before conversion if used? Is the engine cold when you said you first started it? Is the engine temp very high after running? Could be too lean, air leak in manifold area or too large a prop. Something could cause over heating and internal binding. What material is the carb adapter made, metalic or insulator? I am concerned with heat transfer to the carb. When you shut it down, does it turn over smoothly? Turn it slowly after running and see if it binds at all. You already eliminated a temp problem in the ignition box, which is good. IF it is overheating, try opening the needles some. If it is binding when hot, dissamble and look for ring problem or rubbing marks. Increase oil percentage or go to to a premium oil. Make sure that the plug tip is something close to tan in color after shutdown without idling. Light color indicates lean, dark is rich. I know that you know most of this, other readers might not. I hope that I gave you some ideas.
Dave
Hi Flyer,
I have a few questions to ask which will help us solve the problem. From what you say, it sounds like a temp induced problem. Was the engine new or used before conversion? It could have a stuck or broken ring if it was used. Did you diassemble it before conversion if used? Is the engine cold when you said you first started it? Is the engine temp very high after running? Could be too lean, air leak in manifold area or too large a prop. Something could cause over heating and internal binding. What material is the carb adapter made, metalic or insulator? I am concerned with heat transfer to the carb. When you shut it down, does it turn over smoothly? Turn it slowly after running and see if it binds at all. You already eliminated a temp problem in the ignition box, which is good. IF it is overheating, try opening the needles some. If it is binding when hot, dissamble and look for ring problem or rubbing marks. Increase oil percentage or go to to a premium oil. Make sure that the plug tip is something close to tan in color after shutdown without idling. Light color indicates lean, dark is rich. I know that you know most of this, other readers might not. I hope that I gave you some ideas.
Dave
07-05-2005 | 10:01 PM
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From: columbus, GA
RE: Poulan 46
If it is the black carb adaptor from CH, I'd recommend trashing it. Mine would vibrate when the engine got to speed. I like the folks from CH, but the black one they sold was a disappointment. They have come out with a new design, but I am not familiar with it.
I have been running this engine for a couple of years. After my initial poor results with the CH adaptor, I changed to a g-10 adaptor I made myself per RCIGN1's instructions. It and the engine has been bulletproof.
I have been running this engine for a couple of years. After my initial poor results with the CH adaptor, I changed to a g-10 adaptor I made myself per RCIGN1's instructions. It and the engine has been bulletproof.
07-05-2005 | 10:20 PM
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From: San Antonio,
TX
RE: Poulan 46
Hi,
It sounds like you eliminated most of my possibilities, which is good. I was looking at my BME engine manual and it says to open the plug gap if the engine runs rough in mid range and close some if it misses at full throttle (gap .020" to .025" ). The plug used is a NGK BPMR6F which is a resister washerless plug. The nipple is removable so you can use what ever type nipple is required for your plug cap. AV8TOR thought that it may be a plug issue and it sounds like he is right. Let us know how it goes.
Dave
It sounds like you eliminated most of my possibilities, which is good. I was looking at my BME engine manual and it says to open the plug gap if the engine runs rough in mid range and close some if it misses at full throttle (gap .020" to .025" ). The plug used is a NGK BPMR6F which is a resister washerless plug. The nipple is removable so you can use what ever type nipple is required for your plug cap. AV8TOR thought that it may be a plug issue and it sounds like he is right. Let us know how it goes.
Dave
