aalbea

You're correct. Only two wires coming out from the coil. Yesterday I tried to wind only 20 turns of wire directly to the magneto (put first some electrical tape to avoid cutting the insulation) and works OK too (spark less "bright", but consistent).

Third wire you can see in the picture (thicker black at right side of the picture) is soldered to the core of the stock magneto and must be connected to the engine body, in order to close the high voltage circuit.

I have not my camera today. I will try to upload another picture tomorrow.

pheasant_plucker

Great project here guys!
I have been helping Richard with his experiments and I would just like to point out an error in your PCB layout. Some of the i/o pins on the PIC are left floating. This is asking for interference problems in the timing circuit and it would be a good idea to ground these.


Gerry

pheasant_plucker

Jorge, I wonder if you could tell me what software you used to produce the PCB layout. If it was a PCB design program, which one and do you have the original cad file for it.

Gerry

diablo_r

I've had loads of probs getting the SCR to work. The CDI circuit works fine, LV and HV sides, the hall trigger works but the SCR either runs inconsistently creating misses, latches on all the time, or does nothing at all! I'm using a TIC106D. I got hold of a scope and will try that but has anyoen tried something other than a sensitive SCR to trigger the circuit, I'm thinking its not the most robust/reliable thing to to be triggering the system with. What do commercial CDI's use to trigger them?

Cheers,
Rich

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

Quick question..

What programer do you recomend for programing the PIC?

jmj

I use a ProPic programmer. Very reliable, but obsolete.
You should choose a programmer that supports the new PIC's, as the 16F84 is very old.
I guess the code will run on the 16F628 without any modifications, i would like to try that when the CDI is stable.


Diablo_r:
Try different values for the SCR resistor R6. To high value causes the SCR to lock in 'on' position.

Jon-Magne

aalbea

I use TE-20 programmer with IC-prog software (freeware). It was very popular in my country a few years ago.

http://www.terra.es/personal5/ajss123/te_20se.htm

In this page you can find the schematics of a very good and easy programmer.

Mitty

Ben,if 1.2 volts triger yoru schematic hall should do.one leg gets ground,another +5v and third is your triger.Make sure 5 v goes to your hall.

paulfox

Hey guys, can you run the 4.8 or 5 volts to the hall and then to the coil with the hall on a mechanical advance? Like the cdi but have much to learn. Thought that this may get me buy with my conversions for a while.

3drc tim

My Feedback: (6)

How are you fellows doing with your ignition projects. What are the ups, downs, successes and failures. Thanks, Tim

diablo_r

you cannot run the coil direct from a hall, it has the wrong sense, and will not take 2 or 3 amps direct. You need a transistor circuit to act as the power switching.

For mech advance, yes, thats how many engines are currently. For anything under about 30cc to be honest you don't really need it from some tests I've done.

Cheers,
Rich

paulfox

Thanks diablo, any chance you have a diagram are list in the order that the circuit is to be assembled? Are does anyone have plans,seems everyone has forgotten the love of are hobby and wants money for info, guess if I had something the greed bug may bite me as well.

diablo_r

[link=http://www.5bears.com/tim4.htm]TIM4[/link]

try the TIM4 circuit here, cheap as chips, robust and relaible. I've been running one for a while now.

Cheers,
Rich

tomskk

Thanks to jmj I will try to make my own CDI ignition. But after looking at layoutPCBv10 I found I don't quite understand the schematics.

Can you explain to me what all that external connectors are for? It will be very helpful to me and maybe to another reader.

What is connected at this connectors (or what does it mean):

SV5 - Strobe
SV6 - Hall
SV7 - Test
X2 - To power
X3 - From Signal
SV1 - Power
SV4 - Coil

Sorry but my English is not so good, so I don't quite understand this scientific terms.

Where do you connect the cable from the spark plug ? (and what is it called in English)?

Thanks for your help.

Bigboat

Hi all,

I have some problems to trigger the thyristor (TIC126) in the original schematic.
To resolve the problem, I removes R10 (470R) and C2 (22nF) and replace a 100nF for R10.
I found this solution of the link belowe.
[link=http://www.rcmmagazine.com/issues/requested/content/features/pdf/r-fe-capacitor-121980-1-1.pdf]CDI[/link]

CU, Rob

tomskk

So what you are saying is that C2 is now 100nF. What is your new value for R10?

Bigboat

No, remove R10 and C2.
Replace, where R10 was located, a 100nF capasitor.
[link=http://www.test.gompy.net/delay%20schematics.jpg]Changing trigger[/link]

[update 09-12-2005]

The triggerpuls wasn't strong enough with the capasitor I was used.
I change the schematic of the delayschematic - see link.
Now the triggerpuls is 4 Volt to the thyristor.
I have still some problems with the highpower.....only 400 Volt and if I connect the ignitioncoil the power dropdown to zero Volt.

tomskk

Can you tell me which thyristor did you use? I can not find a BT148 in my country and 2N6237 looks like doesn't exist.

Bigboat

TIC116A or TIC126

CU, Rob

tomskk

What toroid coil did you use. Have you went with the one JMJ used. What ferrite dimensions, wire dimensions, number of windings did you use?

Have you used the optional C7 capacitor and if yes what value?

mikenlapaz

You may find this useful for Hall effect sensors application planning. Formulas start on about p 22, theory first.
http://content.honeywell.com/sensing...l/hallbook.pdf

tomskk

What toroid coil did you use. Have you went with the one JMJ used. What ferrite dimensions, wire dimensions, number of windings did you use?

Have you used the optional C7 capacitor and if yes what value?

Bigboat

The coil I use is one from a old AT-powersource, diameter outsite 27mm, insite 15mm, high 12mm

The wire dementions
L1=S2, 24 turns - 0.5mm (#24 awg)
L2=S1, 6 turns - 0.25mm (#30 awg)
L3=PRI, 450 turns - 0.15mm (#34 awg)

I use C7 , but you must see on the scope the demention for the value.
If the capacitor is to small/great, you don't get a nice/clean power to the timingboard.
More small capacistors have more effect than one big one.

CU, Rob

c_moore

Hi Jon,

Great Job on the CDI circuit.How long did it take to wind the toroid?I have made several CDI circuits and found using Ecore transformers a lot easier.

captinjohn

Can you post a photo of this ECORE part. Thanks Capt,n