I have a Homelite 45cc that I am going to convert to an airplane engine. I have poured through pages and pages of websites trying to find some instructions and pics. I have found a few but, information seems sporadic. Does anyone have the steps required to do this so that I dont miss a step or ruin my engine?

I have located some parts suppliers and at this point intend on using the magneto setup.

Thanks in advance, Rob

There is an RCU forum dedicated specifically to conversion engines.

Conversion Engines Forum

Those guys will help you out. Plenty of people have done the 45cc Homey.

Check here: http://www.lcrc.org/Tony_page.htm
I made a tutorial for our club's website. You can download Powerpoint Viewer for free to watch it. I believe the 45cc is similar to the 33cc.

Jim

Hi Rob,
The power point presentation is very good. The big difference between the 45cc and the 33cc is the mounting of the carb on the newer models. If the top of your saw is black, you have the older model and the carb is hard mounted to the cylinder like the 33cc. If the top cover is red, you have a newer model and you eithr have to make a special manifold to mount the carb or buy one from one of the guys that sell conversions. I hope that yours has a black cover.

Dave

Thanks Ya'll,
I have started the conversion. The Power Point presentation helped out greatly. The only difference that I found between the 45cc and 33cc engines in the presentation is that there is a threaded piece that is on the end of the shaft where it was to be cut off. I assume it is part of the bar oiler. A little Dremel tool action and it was history. It didn't seem to want to unscrew or slide off the threads that hold the clutch on.
This one has the carb mounted on the engine. Guess I lucked out. I'm going to have the flywheel milled by someone with the right tools (just so it balances out). I have already cut the case and shaft.

What do you think about polishing the engine? Will that adversely affect anything?

I was skeptical at first. A good engine for under $100...? Now I must get on the ball and find a plane to compliment it. Anyone have some plans for 80" and up stick style plane?

Thanks guys!
Rob

A polished metal surface does not dissipate heat as well as a non-polished surface.

Mike is right, but it would be ok to polish the crankcase. Don't polish the fins. Best for the cylinder fins (for cooling) is a light coat of flat black paint.

AV8TOR

All of you guys have been real helpful. Thanks a million. I hadnt thought of a light coat of paint. Sounds like a great idea! Dont want to burn it up by overheating it.

Has anybody ever had problems with high temp silicone for a crankcase seal? It there a preferred seal?

Rob

Might want to verify that the engine will be rotating in the correct direction.

Bill

You made a good point Bill. After checking it out, it does rotate correctly as indicated by the way it rotated when it was a saw.

Some people use it, but silicone really isn't for applications that are exposed to gasoline. It's ok for water, and basically for oil, but gas turns it to jelly. (Oil will too after a while with direct exposure...)

I use "Yamabond". It's from the Yamaha motorcycle dealer and it works great. I've been using it for many years on all types of motors. Loctite also makes a product for this application, but I'm sorry I can't remember the number.

AV8TOR

Great powerpoint!!!!!!!!!!!!