RCBOZO

My Feedback: (1)

Rcpilet GREAT POST!

I was wondering if there is a "baseline" needle setting? In the unfortunate event that someone has no clue were to start.

BillS

I always start at 1 1/2 turns out on both needles on any pumper carb.

At idle I set the low needle to maximum RPM. Then I set the Hi needle to maximum RPM less just a touch. Then go over both again. A tachometer is connected during the entire process. My method may not work for everyone.

Bill

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

I do the same thing. 1 1/2 turns out to start. Usually have to lean from there because I'm at such high altitude. Seams like most of my high speed needles end up about 1 1/4 or 1 1/8 turn out when I'm done. Low speed usually ends up about 1 or 1 1/8th turn +/- a tiny bit.

sboxer

My Feedback: (1)

I'm glad that we are talking about baseline carb settings for dummies. I was setting up my working Ryobi this weekend and found it somewhat difficult to tune it. I came across the following settings:
High out 1 5/8ths and low out 2 full turns. My high speed tach was about 7100 and my idle speed was about 2000. The response from low to high was immediate.
I assume those numbers are within range for a twin ring ryobi turning a Master Airscrew 18x8 Classic prop at sea level.


I find it difficult to tune these engines because:
1)My tach (which I know is working based upon the "point it at a indoor light" test) jumps around so I end up averaging it;
2)The tach readings seem different from the front (i know-never measure from the front) vs. the back of the engine or if I aim it at the tips or prop hub;
3)Lastly, I refuse to turn the needles while the engine is running. This really makes the procedure difficult, but I can only imagine how hard it would be to do my job if I lost a finger while tinkering my model airplane. I am trying to figure out a safe way to tune the engine while it is running.

ken 68

Another opinion I use nothing but prem. in my chain saws and 4 wheeler. I can't see much power on lantern fuel . Years ago (AND IM DATING MYSELF) white gas from Ameco was 103 octane

BillS

For what it is worth my Stihl inductive tack is laying on the table. Wrap the loose wire around the plug wire and the tack starts working when the engine is cranked.

Bill

captinjohn

To make it a lot more easy to adjust carburator Hi and Low screws....take them out and solder a allen head too each adjusting screw. To get a allen head just use your dremal cut off wheel on a allen bolt. When done, you can adjust mixture real easy eith a long "ball" driver for allen screws. Done this years ago. A 20 inch small dia tube with a "Tee" handle works great too. Just solder a cut off allen wrench to steel tube. Gppd luck Capt,n

sboxer

My Feedback: (1)

That allen head trick has to be one of the best ideas yet - Thanks!
Having a "sticky" thread with safety tips would be a welcome addition. Like Norm Abram always says on the New Yankee Workshop, "Before we use any power tools, let's talk about shop safety".

SB

captinjohn

The adjusting tool I made with the TEE handle is really good for fine tunning. With a screw driver...its hard to tell if you got a 1/8 th turn or closer to a 1/4 turn. With TEE handle you can tell by looking at position of handle and see right where you are at. No guessing. Nice. Capt,n

balloonpilot

Go to www.zamacarb.com. Click on Service/Aftermarket on the left side. Download the appropriate technical guide. It has all you need to know about rebuilding their carbs including pictures.

Good luck.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

I bought a new Brillelli. The thing acted just like your Rhyobi. I could have swarn it was a fuel problem. Scott even sent me a new carb. to try. In desperation I put in an old spark plug that I had in my tool case for several years. The engine started right up and ran like a champ. That brand new spark plug was the problem. Go figure!

captinjohn

Just wondering! Did you get the Ryobi engine running yet? Good Luck Capt,n