Blue Marble Oil
#1
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From: Kalona,
IA
Ralph,
G26 with your conversion which included Falkon Ignition and Denso plug. I'm running a B&B open header pipe and Mejzlik 18x6. I'm interested in trying the Blue Marble Oil, what ratio would you recommend to start and then thereafter. I was initially interested in Amsoil, but I hear it leaves unnecessary residue. If you have a better suggestion than the Blue Marble Oil, let me know.
Once I finish case trimming, I will post some pictures of the shortened 26 with standoffs. It is LIGHT!
Thanks
G26 with your conversion which included Falkon Ignition and Denso plug. I'm running a B&B open header pipe and Mejzlik 18x6. I'm interested in trying the Blue Marble Oil, what ratio would you recommend to start and then thereafter. I was initially interested in Amsoil, but I hear it leaves unnecessary residue. If you have a better suggestion than the Blue Marble Oil, let me know.
Once I finish case trimming, I will post some pictures of the shortened 26 with standoffs. It is LIGHT!
Thanks
#2
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From: Keene,
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Motul 800 2T, Motorex Crosspower 2T, Bel-Ray H1R are all premium ester based synthetic oils. The ester based oils are the most expensive, but provide excellent protection and a clean burn. I've used all 3 in two-stroke racing engines from dirtbikes to a Yamaha TZ250 roadracer and they all work well, but I like the smell of the Motul 800 2T the best, especially when mixed with 100LL avgas. I've read numerous stories in msnowmobile magazines and online about Blue Marble and the conclusion is, it's a good oil, but you can buy better or equal oil for alot less money. Their claims of increased power, etc were pretty much proven to be false. There are 3 basic types of oil base stocks: 1-Petroluem 2-PAO's (Polyalphaolefins) and 3-Esters. Petroluem oils would be the cheap stuff that wroks fine in most cases but is dirtier, more carbon buildup. PAO's are the next step up, and the Esters are the top of the line oils. You also have castor oil from a number of companies that gives the best engine protection, maybe even a little better than esters, but is pretty dirty burning and some don't like the smell. Castrol makes a part synthetic, part castor oil called A747, which is a great oil too, protection of castor and clean burn of synthetic. You can find Motul online for about 15$ a quart, which isn't cheap, but will make 10 gallons of fuel at 40:1 or 12.5gal at 50:1. I'm guessing thats enough for a whole season of flying? I've seen local guys with DA150's using amsoil at 100:1, it scares me a little, but they have no problems. Model airplane gas engines are in the 1hp/10cc's power output range. A TZ250 roadrace engine is about 1hp/3cc's and run great on any of the premium oils at 32:1-40:1. So they're probably overkill, but you don't use much and the extra protection is there on a lean run if you need it someday and they keep the inside of your engine much cleaner.
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From: Keene,
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Sorry, didn't mean to butt in, just noticed first post was addressed to Ralph....... Antique- Amsoil Dominator is an ester, and I'm guessing the saber 100:1 is also, judging by price, both about $9 a quart, which is a great price for an ester based oil.
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From: Kalona,
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No problem, I am here to learn so butt in all you want! I just received my first engine back from Ralph, and I swear the more I read the more I'm hooked. It sounds to me like there are plenty of quality oil choices out there. I guess the best solution, for me, would be the best protection quality, least exhaust residue, and something that is readily available. I've been hearing that Pennzoil 2-stroke has been extensively tested against others with good results.
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From: Keene,
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I just looked on Pennzoil's site, looks like they're 2 different 2-stroke oils are both petroleum based. They probably still work fine, it would be interesting to see a formal test on a bunch of these oils to see what's whst in the real world, not just on paper.
#8

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Here ya go... these guys spent a lot of time and money on this test: http://www.ultralightnews.com/features/oiltest.htm
It has pics, test results, everything.
AV8TOR
It has pics, test results, everything.
AV8TOR
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From: Keene,
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Good link Av8tor! I wish they would tell which brands the other two oils were though. Seems like pennzoil helped them out with this test and their oils appear to perform very well. But I have to wonder if they didn't use their insiders knowlage of oils and pick the worst other 2 oils they knew about? Even so, looking at those pistons, ports and heads, the pennzoil appears to be a very clean burning oil and held it's ring seal better than the other 2 oils did. You learn something new evey day......
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From: Keene,
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RCIGN1...good link, I found the thread and from what read his conclusion was to go with Bel-ray H1R and a 15% bigger fuel tank? It had less carbon buildup than the other oils. I've been using Yamalube semi-synthetic for years in snowmobiles and after 30-40 hrs use I pull the powervalves for cleaning. Yamalube is one of the cleanest of the few oils I've tested and it's anly about $16 a gallon. I wish I had a pile of engines and some tolerant neighbors.....
#11

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What I use, based on quite a bit of experience with two strokes, is Pennzoil for Aircooled Engines until the engine is well broken in, then I switch to Amsoil. I've seen engines with 800 or more hours on them with virtually no carbon build up and hardly any wear using this system.
This is of course assuming near perfect jetting (mixture). Any gas two stroke engine will carbon up if the mixture is too rich.
AV8TOR
This is of course assuming near perfect jetting (mixture). Any gas two stroke engine will carbon up if the mixture is too rich.
AV8TOR



