Looking to trade one of my Ryobis for a 23.6cc Kioritz. A fellow RCU member has a Kioritz, but the plug faces forwards. I've never seen one like this, anyone have any information about this engine?

Find out what the engine came out of and look it up on Kioritz site for parts manuals. 21 and 23 cc kioritz normally have plug tilted to side. 23 is going to be gas/glow.

None of my Kioritz/Echo's have a forward pointing plug. Mine are all like Mike's

I have a kioritz that has a forward facing plug, measured the bore and stroke and it seems to be a 25

does it have a clutch drive and a fan (not a flywheel) mounted on the side the plug faces? if it's like that, it's exactly the same as the one I got, I don't know it's power yet as the scooter I made around it has a couple chain alignment issues... (was using a crappy welder, now have a better one)

Hi,
Went out and took a picture of my Kioritz K3s came out of a 21 CC Craftman string trimmer. It had the front fan and clutch. The flywheel was heavy and round without fins with the mag and points inside. It was mounted in the housing at the back of the engine. The housing was a ready made engine mount. The one problem with it was that the output shaft was not tapered making it difficult to attach a prop adapter. It is set up to run on CH igitation. It has a gloplug adapter in it and will be a great engine to try on GGL that seem to be a great way to go.
Don
Sorry same pix twice!

The first string trimmer I bought was the Sears 21cc engine. Mine has a mag on the back with points in it. Runs good but I do think it would be best as GLOW and 2nd Gas/Glow. Any extra weight needs to be gone. May post a photo later. Capt,n UPDATE Added photo

Here is a pic the fella sent me. Says it gets 6-10lbs thrust w/ tuned pipe. I was going to remove the mag, starter, basically everything not required and run it on gas/glow. Says it's a 22cc engine.

Don, does that look like the same engine you had? Any issues? Have to mod the carb? Etc. I know nothing about this engine.

I converted one to glow for a friend a couple of years ago. On the one I did, I just unbolted the cylinder and rotated it 180*. The ports lined up perfectly.

Wunfu: Waht kind of tuned pipe did your frien use. Thanks Capt,n

Did you rotate it to make installation easier, or to make it fit in the cowl? Or was there a performance reason? How did his do on glow? Don't suppose you remember how much it weighed? That's the critical factor for me, I want to put it on the Raven I made a thread about earlier and it needs to be as light as it can be.

Cap'n: He didn't say which tuned pipe it was, I'm guessing home made? "I have a tuned pipe with header that comes with it."

Wufnu,
Yes, I think that's the same engine. Mine has a small tab rivetted to the housing that says "Koritz K3s" on it.
Its a nice quality engine. I cut off the rear crankshaft just past the rear bearing race and replaced the seal with a plug that I turned from a piece of aluminum using the points screw holes to hold it in. The flywheel is so heavy it think it weighs more than the rest of the engine. Get rid of that FW and its a very decent weight.
I also whittled a carb adapter so I could rotate the carb. I think you'll like it on Glo or GGL.

"I cut off the rear crankshaft just past the rear bearing race and replaced the seal with a plug that I turned from a piece of aluminum using the points screw holes to hold it in."

Was this necessary, or can I leave a hole in the firewall for the crank to stick through? I have no machining equipment nor the skill to use them, I'm afraid. Good to hear it was a great runner! Might just give'er a shot, although the previous owner said that the kit came stock overweight

A Dremel moto tool with a cutoff disc will make quick work of that extra crank length. Some metal cutting burrs for it will allow trimming material you cannot get to with a file. They are handy, using the same one for the last 25 years. Amortized it is not much for what they can do!

They make wheels for that? My roomates once got me into taking stainless wire of about 1/16" thickness and making "springs" from it, then cutting them and making chainmail type stuff. I know, I know, but it was something to do and you'd be surprised how much that stuff sells for. Anywho, I couldn't cut the stainless with anything but a giant bolt cutter and even then the cuts would be nasty and unsuitable for wear. Some said that they used dremel discs but only got a little ways before the disc had to be discarded and thrown away. I wouldn't figure them to be up to the task of cutting 1/4" steel! If I trade, I'll give that a try before reading for the grinding cutter.

I've seen those burr cutters in action when I had a friend retap the footpegs on my motorcycle, amazing little devices! Just stuck it in the hole and spin it around the hole a few times, was smooth as a babies butt.

I misspoke. The tool I actually used was a die grinder with cutoff wheel on a mandrel. Tool is another good investment. It has had alot more service than the Dremel over 20 years. Would buy either again if needed. They go together well, the Makita works SS tubing and 1/8" 316 and 304.

http://www.shop.com/op/~FREE_SHIPPIN...098?sourceid=3

Wufnu, No, it's not necessary to cut off the crank. I had mine apart for new bearings, I cut it off with a hacksaw, the shaft isn't very hard. I then cleaned up my cut on a sanding disk. I just wanted to lose any weight I could. Some on this engine conversion forum have used an old capicator case for a plug, but I didn't have one. With the proper size plug pressed in, screws to hold it in would be uncessary thus even less weight.
Don

I'll have to keep that in mind. Have any pictures? I'm trying to visualize what the plug does without knowing what the back of the engine looks like

Wufnu,
Sorry, no pictures at present. The shaft goes through the bearing then through an oil/dirt seal thats about 1/4 inch thick. By cutting the shaft at the bearing a person defeats the seal and needs to reseal it some how (that's what the plug is for). If you cut the shaft outside of the seal then you'd not need a plug and I'm sure it would not be any heavier than with the plug setup I used, it just leaves a potiential spot for leakage either in or out). I also saw it as an opportunity to reduce any drag that the seal might add to the engine (however minuscule).
Don