combatpilot

I can see from the pic that you got the fuel lines on backwards. your in line is on the primer port and the primer line is on the inlet. also im not sure how long that silicon fuel line is gona last with gas if it is in fact silicone. but hey dont take my word for it im sure there are far smarter and far more qualified people on here than I.

ScaleNVYflyr

It started

Well guys.. thanks for your help.. being all pissed off I went out and spun the engine one more time before giving up for the night and she caught.. So I treated my neighbors to 8oz of noise!

I was pleased with it, I got about 5.9K out of it turning a 20x8 prop, which I knew would be a little big for it. I'm thinking a 18x8 or 18x6 maybe the ticket.. What is everyone else running? The flywheel is a little out of balance. but it smooths out around 3k. I think if I can get the prop hub (used red locktite) I'll balance it one more time.

I did have everything correct, coil lines, and the fuel lines.. The silicone line was a temp plug for the vent line..

I was really happy with the the engine once it started, I'm thinking it had too much oil it in from my re-assembly.

Lastly will these things start by hand fliping it or will I need a high torque starter? What is everyone else using? I'm currently starting it with a drill on the prop nut in the garage but I dont have that much cord


Where should these things idle at? I got it down to about 2k..

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

you should be able to start it with a standard starter, I use a dynatron on 12v because I have one... but I've used my standard 12v sulivan too. Not too many magneto ignitions hand flip, but with the right technique some can be...

combatpilot

the silicone line looked like it was coming from the fuel tank in the plane and thats why it looked like it was backwards. I would get rid of the primer bulb in your line and just go straight gas line. take a syringe and hook it to you primer port with a bit of fuel line. use it to pull fuel into the carb then force a small amount back into the carb to prime and it should start pretty easy then. remove syringe and block port.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If the primer port is not blocked, it will suck air at times when the engine is running (if it runs?)

ScaleNVYflyr

Thanks for all the help! I'll make the suggested changes and get her covered!

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

Ok guys. I just about finnished my 33cc conversion. All I need to do now is to cut out the mounting plates for my motor mount. Im going to put it in place of my 30cc engine as soon as my flywheel is cut down. I will keep you all poasted as it goes. Wow the throttle was a bear but it works now. Also my saw came with the primer bulb on it. I got rid of it by pulling out the brass fitting in the carb and filled the hole with jb weld. The carb has a choke on it so Im hopeing that it will still draw fuel right. I also soldered the hole shut on the choke plate. Has anyone ever done this yet to a carb?? And will it work. As far as removeing the primer tube..Thanks Ernie...

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It will be fine

Firepower R/C

My Feedback: (10)

Hi there.... do you still have your homie 33cc for sale? I would love to take a crack at one of these!

Rich