dmmahan

Ok, guys I need your help. I'm trying to find out what this engine is or what it used to be. I did some math on the bore and stroke and came up with 43.3cc each time I did the calculations.
On the back of the case above the exhaust port the numbers are
68501
4
IMP.
I've ran it useing its points and a 6V coil and got about 7K with a 18-10Z. As you see it, 3.8lbs.
3 things throw me, left-hand threads on the flywheel side(same way the engine spins) carb location and because of the carb location where did the stock flywheel mount?!
Ive had it apart, looks real good inside. Runs strong, sounds like a saw.
I'm just trying to deside if its worth messin' with.
ANY help at all would be appreciated.
Dave

dmmahan

Wildflyr

My Feedback: (98)

Dave, You are correct in your calculations. The engine you have is a 44cc. I have one of these that has been converted over to glow power, but have never attempted to run it. From what Info I have gathered on this engine it is an E.W.H. 2.6 "Super-Hustler" engine powered by Homelite. It was produced by E.W.H. Specialties, Inc out of Arlington, Texas. I don't know who sold these engines, or if they are available. I do not believe that they are produced any longer, although I have seen a few for sale on Ebay from time to time. I have included a photo of the engine that I found on the net.
I hope this info helps,
Tom

Wildflyr

My Feedback: (98)

Here is another pic showing the Ignition system schematic as shown in the manual.

dmmahan

RIGHT ON! Wildflyr!
Man, thanks alot thats more info than I thought I'd ever get!
Well I guess I'll need to look in to a CH ign. for it now.
Thanks again,
Dave

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

You will need to shield the carb opening from the blast of air from the prop...Only other engine I know of with that setup is a Aerrow 200 twin..It has a shield that looks like an aluminum can, about 1.5 inches around and 1/2 inch deep,solid on the front with holes all around the side...direct air blast into the carb won't work....

dmmahan

I ran it on the test stand with an 18-10, ran great.
I guess the velocity off the prop is not near the speed of the on-comeing air. What about inside a cowl?

mlevings

My Feedback: (14)

I've done a few Macullah 2.0 chainsaw conversions with the same front carb/rear exhaust setup. I never did anything to block the prop blast and never had a problem with them running.

dmmahan

RCIGN1,
I was thinking about the front carb. thing and I can see how
the prop wash could change the dynamics of vacuum/fuel delivery in the ventury. But won't the engine "take" only what fuel/air it needs regardless of the pressure in front of the ventury.
I guess you would want to keep the flow into the carb as "clean" and less turbulant as you can.
Although, Walbros designed to run behind an enclosed air filter
don't seem to mind having 100+ MPH air blasted past them.
Maybe I'm makeing this harder than it needs to be...
Just food for thought..
Let me know what you think..

Dave

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

I have only experienced that setup a few times..The Quadra-Aerrow 200 twin on a race plane needs the plate but is open on the sides...We tried "ram air" on a 3W 70 on one of our Formula One racers a few years ago, direct blast into the carb with a 90 degree elbow and a small tube from the front of the carb to the plate over the diaphragm...It sometimes worked, but the carb was so hard to set right we gave up on it...On the chainsaw the carb has an air cleaner on it so there's no direct air blast....

Flypaper 2

Carburetted engines depend on vacuum in the venturi to draw fuel from the fuel chamber. At different airspeed and prop speeds you would be getting different velocities going through the carb, so as rcign says you would never be able to set the carb for all speeds.

dmmahan

Thanks guys for all the feed back.
This must be one of the reasons I don't see these engines around much
But in its defence the things got great compression, good power and its fairly lite.
44cc and it was free...what the hay I'll make it work
This is my first gas that was "RC" to start with all my others have been conversions.

Its got points, does anyone make small coils that will work with that setup or is it best to rip em out and go with the CH type setup?

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

It was a chainsaw, probably Homelite, about 20 or so years ago..They don't make 'em any more.The points would probably work if you could find the original ignition setup, but a call to C&H to check on a conversion would be a good idea....Less hassle, and give TK something to do.

dmmahan

rcign1,
What about a small cycle coil? I saw one today $49.
Pos, Neg and a plug wire. It looked small and lite.
Useing the stock points I made my engine run useing a 350 Chev. coil at 6V. So all I need is a little coil that will run at 4.8-6 volts.
What do you think?
Also, what type setup do you offer?
Dave

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Can't offer anything, I'm out of circuit boards for a while...The C&H setup might work from points, and will be way smaller and lighter than anything else..TKG is lurking out here somehwere, he'll come up with something

dmmahan

RCIGN1,
thanks for your help.
Hopefully I can come up with a farely cost effective solution. Unfortunatly I am the original "modeler on a buget", otherwise
I'd own all BME's and DA's.
Dave

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

I'm lurking, but I ain't messing with that paint mixer.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

You ever sleep ?

dmmahan

tkg,
On a conversion from points to CH what could you recommend?
Also the flywheel/prop adapter on my engine is not aluminum,
will that create a problem for the magnetic feild. (the flywheel sensor)
thanks,
Dave

maxtenet

A boat anchor!

Sukhoi_One

I think what you have is a older Quadra 35. I have the same engine with electronic ignition. It looks like yours is the same. I have ran it on the stand and got 8500 rpm's with a APC 18X8.

AC2

My Feedback: (34)

I'VE GOT THE SAME ENGINE, ITS A SUPER HUSLTLER AS STATED IN THE MANUAL. PRODUCED (MARKETED) OUT OF TEXAS YEARS AGO. CH WILL SELL YOU A IGNITION FOR IT AFTER HE DOES A LITTLE MOD TO IT (THE IGN BOX). HE ALSO WILL TELL YOU TO USE THE ENGINE AS A BOAT ANCHOR, LOL, BECAUSE IT WAS KNOW FOR ITS LARGE AMOUNT VIBRATION. I HAVE NOT RUN MINE YET AS I JUST MOVED AND HAVE NOT FINISHED SETTING UP SHOP, BUT I DO PLAN ON PUTTING IT IN MY TF P-51 ARF IF IT RUNS WELL AFTER TESTS. NICE SETUP FOR A NARROW COWLED WARBIRD WITH FRONT CARB AND REAR EXAUST.

AC

P Neal

Hi
Can anyone ID this engine?
It is about 50cc
Has a Mahle head and a CNC machined case.
No markings on the case, except K19 engraved on the mating face with the head.
Last owner broke cooling fins, so I want a new head.

Thanks
Patrick

3-DorBUST

I found what appears to be the same engine (in the trash!) has same #68501 above exhaust port, I raised the piston to just close the exhaust port, removed the spark plug and filled the cyl. with oil, from a calibrated syringe, until it started out the spark plug hole,and ended up with 35cc's.

I reversed the crankshaft so the carb is at the back (makes throttle link a breeze and eliminates anti-siphoning)

Stole prop adapter and ch ign. from air hobbies eng. I got from an auction ($150.00)(BOAT ANCHOR!!! good ign.)

here's some pics: