Someone gave me this older homey and the carb is on the bottom. Can this be converted into a useable engine?

another pic

you got a very easy convert. shave the fly wheel lop off as much metal as possible where ever possible. mount holes on side of case make it real easy to make a motor mount

Does anyone know what CC it is? Or what do I measure to determin what CC it is. What should the end weight be? Should I take the flywheel to a machine shop or should I just take a die grinder to it...

Thanks
Ed

It looks like one of the old XL150's from the 70's to me? They were around 2.4 c.i. I think? They were a 16" saw with 3/8" chain. They didn't have a isolated handle and would have your hands tingling in no time. I had a couple and other than my hands bothering me, I never had any trouble with them.

Enjoy,

Jim

What size prop should I use? Can I get a Prop hub for it or should I get one made at a machine shop? and last of all, if I need to rebuild it can I still get parts for it?

Thanks Again
Ed

Most of the flywheel ends are 5/16" - 24. Carr Precision makes hubs. If it's different, they can make one to fit.

A 18-10 should be about the right prop?

You shouldn't need any part except the ring maybe? You can get one from Frank Bowman. If you need other parts, you might find junk ones at a chain saw shop? New parts except for the ring, are not generally very cost effective for these things. It's cheaper to get one that does need any parts.

From looking at the picture, the carb doen't have a HS needle valve? There appears to be a seal in its place? If this is so, on these old engines, you can dig the seal out and there's a recessed screw underneath. You will have to have needle valves on a model engine because of the air flowing past the carb.

Enjoy,

Jim

Measure (in centimeters) diameter of the piston and the stroke from TDC to BDC.
Then find the area of the top (I'm assuming its flat) of the piston.
Diameter/2=Radius
PIE(3.14) * radius squared=Area top of piston
Area of piston * stroke=displacement
If all calc. are in centimeters then you should get cubic centimeters (cc).

This Homey also has a rear shaft about 3" long. Can I just lop it off close to the case or should I leave it on there???

Ed

Here's a shot of mine. It came out of an XL-10 chainsaw, 30cc or 1.8 cubes. I've got the prop hub on another motor right now, but it weighs 3lbs 8oz as in the picture. Big ol' Walbro HDC carb (this was made before the tree huggers made the mfgs. start worrying about air polution) Needle bearings on the crank and no thrust washer (my crank moves forward and aft about a quarter inch while the motor is running) The best I can remember, it was turning a Zinger 18x8 around 6500. I might make another adapter this weekend and try it on the test stand again. If you do decide to convert yours, make sure that you remove all the steel parts from the lower crankcase half before doing any grinding on it. It's made of magnesium and will get a fire going in a hurry if you make any sparks (Yep, caught the bench grinder on fire 3 different times)

I'm converting a homey that is almost identical. Here's a photo of mine. One difference, mine has a high speed needle. I turned down the fins on the flywheel and made a hub and washer. I have made some mounts, and added a bell crank for the throttle linkage. Starting this beast is tough. I could not flip start it, but was able to fashion a rope starter using the hub to make sure it ran. I'm making a pulley to fit on the rear shaft for rope starting in the future. My application is a giant ugly stick, so access to the rear of the engine is not a problem.

2nd Pic

Looks great Gary... Let me know how the pull start works out as I have been pondering that one for a wile...

Ed

Hey guys.. this site is amazing ! I was hoping to find something about this engine.

I had a friend give me almost the same engine in a chainsaw. It was a Homey XL12 chainsaw. I took the engine off and couldn't believe that huge wart hanging off the bottom case. Anyway.. I have a few questions...

What do you all mean by.. cut as much as possible off the flywheel? Cut the fins off?

How will the prop adapter mount? to the flywheel or just the crankshaft?

Mine also has about 1/4" of shaft endplay. I was worried, but i see it's normal.. does this affect the engine while running?

What do i do with the rear crankshaft? cut it off or leave it?

From the reasearch i found online on the homey model # (U/T 10515A) they were either 30cc, 40cc, or larger. Does anyone know what was on the XL 12?

I'm thinking of converting this to fly on my 9' span Aeronca champ. It's currently flying with a Supertigre 3000 which is also a 30cc engine. Will I get the same power from a 30cc gas conversion?

last question... How do i get the counterwieght from the old clutch off the rear crankshaft? I can't pry it, and i can't turn it either. Any TIPS???

THanks everyone!!

Markus:
Cut the fins off the flywheel. Mount the prop hub to the flywheel. Much shorter to cut off the rear shaft, or leave it on if you intend to put a starter on it. XL 12 is 55 cc. Gasser has roughly 3/4 the power of an alky burner but open to controversy. If I remember right, clutch should screw off clockwise. Have fun.

clutch should screw off clockwise mine did the same way.