bgfireman

My Feedback: (13)

I have a 31cc weedeater engine I want to turn in to a airplane engine. It is a Bolens from Lowes. It also said MTD on the side. I just need to know what parts to order to make the transformation. Do I order parts for the Ryobi 31 or something else. I would post a picture, but it looks like every other engine without the plastic parts. The backplate is made of plastic. Does this need to be changed? I've read other threads, but not one on this engine. Atleast I can't find one.
Thanks
Alan

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Two needle carb 11.11mm
Carb spacer to position carb where it will open fully
Prop hub
Engine mount
Resistor spark plug
Trim extra material from the plastic back plate
The new ones have a partially cast on shroud for cooling air that must be sawn off

rangerfredbob

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yes, buy parts for a Ryobi

bgfireman

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Thanks for the list and confirmation on what to order. Now who do you suggest to get parts from? Does B&B carry this or someone else? I've been looking some more. It looks like wacker engines may be a little cheaper for the same parts. Do you have a prefrence between the two?
thanks again,
Alan

bgfireman

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One last question for now. How do I know if I have the long or short shaft engine?
Alan

HunkaJunk

On the short shaft engines, the crankshaft sticks out of the flywheel only far enough to get the washer and nut on, The long shaft usually have a clutch on them and the shaft sticks out of the flywheel a lot more.

Here is a couple pictures of the difference.

bgfireman

My Feedback: (13)

Ok, So I am posting a picture for you to tell me what I have. It does not look like what you posted. This was a weedeater that the shaft broke off of.
Alan

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You have to remove the flywheel and saw/file the shroud off on the new ones to get them to look like the old style.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

http://www.carrprecision.com/Pages/prod02.htm

w8ye

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http://jagengines.com/

w8ye

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http://www.ch-ignitions.com/cat.html

HunkaJunk

That is a short shaft engine. I think a little different style than mine.

bgfireman

My Feedback: (13)

OK so this has been a project that was put on the back burner. So now its back out front. I got the clutch and fly wheel off. Now I need to know if it is the short shaft? Also how much of the fan shroud comes off? Do I go all the way down to where the shaft housing is? If so how did you quys do it? I dont have any fancy machines so it will all be by hand.
Thanks for the help.
Alan

bgfireman

My Feedback: (13)

Also would this carb be good for the Ryobi?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

all I use is a hack saw most of the time with a coarse blade along with a pair of pliers and or adjustable wrench to break the parts off that aren't needed, cut the outer part down to the crankcase, leave the fins that go toward the front bearing and taper them down to the step in the crankcase for strength.

that carb doesn't look like the best candiate, looks like a blower carb that has detents to hold the throttle in position.

captinjohn

bgfireman,
Is there any other engine like a Homelite or Poulan of about the same cc as your Ryobi that you may want to use? What size airplane & are you going to use & is going to have electronic ignition? Maybe I could help you find a more easy engine to convert. Capt,n

bgfireman

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Capt'n
This engine was a freeby from work. It is going on a Ryan's Rebel that I bought the plans for(looks like an ultra stick). I am sure with a littl advice I can get this Ryobi going. For now it will be mag ign. Mayge EI later.
Thanks
Alan

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It is a short shaft engine

I drilled a 3/8" hole in a 2 X 4 to accept the crankshaft shaft end and to let the cooling flange rest flat and square. With the shaft down through the hole, I sawed the flange away from the main crankcase on a band saw. I then finished the crank case up with a half round coarse file. I just tried to dress it up and blend all the gussets into and across the area where I removed the flange. You do not want to weaken the crankcase.

Were you going to use the magneto ignition or the RCEXL? The magneto will require that the coil mount part of the fan shroud remain? If it is the Phelon brand of magneto, they are not as good as the Walbro.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

To look this carb up it has all the right features and is the right size
http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product...76-1&Series=WT

But that is a very suspicious looking throttle arm? Like was said earlier it looks like a blower carb with detents on the throttle?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If you are going to use the magneto, you will want to remove the fins on the flywheel.

I've done it several ways.

The first one, I chucked the flywheel in the lathe and turned them off even with the highest part of the counter weight,madnet housing.

On the next one, I took a pair of pliers and broke all the fins off. I cut the remains down even with the base of the flywheel with a small die grinder.

I balanced them all with a High Point prop balancer from Bennett. There's no reason why the balancer from Dubro would not work as well.

The Phelon mags are way out of balance.

When you mount the coil, you put the magnet part towards the coil area. Set a business card on the magnet and then the coil. The magnet will hold it in position. Bolt it down.

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

I've chucked the flywheels in my lathe and cut them flush, it's a PIA and loud, easier to just break them off with pliers and clean it up then balance it, I use the Dubro balancer as I got it cheap used, works fine. I find that the counterweight side and flywheel sides are usually different heights, I try to get them even then balance from there, if you leave a little stub it gives you some material to remove to balance.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Don't use a Dremel for this as there's too much metal flying around

You need a carbide cutter and you will have to stop and clear the flutes all the time

You can finish with sand paper

bgfireman

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How do I tell which mag I have? The wiring parts says Mtd 71818 MA-56 1987. The nexy question is what do I do with the wire? I figure it is some kind of grounding wire to cut the engine off. I got word of a lodal guy that might can turn off some of the extra metal with a lathe. I plan to go see him today and see what he says.
Thanks
Alan

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

There's a big MTD Lawn tractor factory 1/4 mi from my house?? But it may as well be in Tombouctou, Mali for I cannot get any parts there.

If the flywheel doesn't say Walbro or Phelan on it, then it is probably Chinese? Probably made in China now even if it was a name brand?

Have the local machinst turn the flywheel as square as he can but stop at the highest point. You should still balance it.

Don't connect the wire until you get ready for a stop switch and then it is a short out to the engine case deal. People tend to use slide switches and not toggle switches.

bgfireman

My Feedback: (13)

The back of the fly wheel gves the general warning that altering it may cause it to explode. It also says on the opposite side FL-5. On the wieghted side it has a circle stamped on it with a 7 beside it. Also how did you remove the clutches? I took off the cylinder and took out the piston and shaft. Dummy me didn't look real close first. It does not look like there is a front and back, but I am sure ther is. I see where ther is a little cut off the bottom of the piston so I know it has to go in a certain way. Someone let me know so I get it put back right. Also there seems to be a lot of carbon build up on the piston. Should I try and remove it? Also the piston looks very black on the sides. I am begining to think I am barking up the wrong tree here. What is the consensus here?
Thanks
Alan