MOKI XL 35cc
 

I fellow club member offered to sell me one. I am not interested in glow. So, I need to get another ignition and a couple of sparkplugs. I also need to fabricate a pickup for the hub. I would make an intake manifold adapter for a walbro carb. As I quickly calculate this I see $200 pretty fast.

Are these engines good conversion cantidates? Are there bearings on the crank pin/conrod? If I do it I would prefer not to have another gas mix. Would I have to add a con rod bearing?

RE: MOKI XL 35cc
 

Hi scot.
Go to: tech.flygsw.org/moki210gasser.htm. this might help you deside, also you could just run it on FAI fuel with the Rcexl ignition if you don't wish to change the carb.

RE: MOKI XL 35cc
 

Looks like more trouble than it is worth. I would rework the head for a larger sparkplug. The carb adapter and ignition are easy. The link on that site for a guy who will add a con-rod bearing is not functional. I do not want to have multiple cans of fuel laying around so I guess that is that. It would be an interesting project if I got the engine at a really low price. The person wants $100. That is a fair price. The trouble is that it would add up real fast to get a functional gasser.

Even if I made a new con rod that had bearings wouldn't it beat up the crank pin? I read somethng about that being a problem.

RE: MOKI XL 35cc
 

Yes, the crankpin has to be changed when running a roller bearing. The crankpin used for bushings is not hardened and will be destroyed by the roller bearing.

AV8TOR

RE: MOKI XL 35cc
 

If you coud tap the head for a CM6 sparkplug and use 20-1 oil & gas mix, the engine should work out ok. It sounds like a fun conversion....at least for me. Capt,n

RE: MOKI XL 35cc
 

Captain I don't think I would recommend going as low as 20:1 oil. The larger Super Tigers for example recommend 10% oil which is 10:1.... A fellow might get away with 16:1 if they were very careful never to overheat it and never to run it lean. Even then it would be chancy in my estimation.

Just my opinion....

AV8TOR

RE: MOKI XL 35cc
 

You are right...don,t know why I typed 20-1. I do think 16-1 would be ok if you ran the engine easy and do not overload it with to big of a prop. Thanks Capt,n

RE: MOKI XL 35cc
 

How come larger engines do not have bering on the con rod as a general rule? Just running slower and have more oil splashing around??

RE: MOKI XL 35cc
 

It is hard to believe, but studies have shown that a rod bushing/bearing running on a film of oil actually has less friction than a roller bearing. Besides, it is MUCH cheaper.

They made a roller bearing crankshaft for Volkswagen engines, but had a lot of trouble with it. It had to be pressed together like a two stroke crank is, and it kept twisting at the press together joints. It came with a warning to never, ever "dump the clutch" as that would twist the crank.

AV8TOR

RE: MOKI XL 35cc
 

"They made a roller bearing crankshaft for Volkswagen engines, but had a lot of trouble with it. It had to be pressed together like a two stroke crank is, and it kept twisting at the press together joints. It came with a warning to never, ever "dump the clutch" as that would twist the crank."

Yeah, I almost built an engine with one. Cooler heads prevailed and I got a 1600 crate engine and only did external mods. A free flowing exhaust, dual webbers and a 009 distributor was pleanty of "GO" for my '62 bug. It would peg the speedo. I am lucky not to have been killed. I see clean old bugs now and then. It is tempting to get another.

RE: MOKI XL 35cc
 

You dont need bearing on pin rod yiou open hole to 1.8 mm and use 3:1 oil

I think prop +hub + walbro + walbro suport is lees than 99 usd

Regardsmaximiliano

RE: MOKI XL 35cc
 

Scota, can you post a couple ofphotos of this engine? Just wondering what exact engine you may have. Thanks, Capt,n

RE: MOKI XL 35cc
 

MORE DATA I idid a google search and found a thread where a person did a nice conversion. Below are photos. Capt,n