I will post it either way, clean or dirty :D :D :D

Found another source for parts for your FT160AR... they list the cylinder for $39, in stock.

Cylinder
https://rcworld.com.au/product/16011...inder-ft160ar/

Parts page for the FT160AR
https://rcworld.com.au/?s=ft160ar&se...t_type=product

[/QUOTE. Bottom line is that I don't like the scuffing marks but I do believe this happened early in the engines life (compression has always been a bit lower on that cylinder), but that I am extremely happy to see that the valves and seats underneath the dirt are in pristine condition, and that piston and combustion chamber do not have any hard carbon deposits. The engine apparently burns pretty clean along the entire throttle range, and the oil I use seems to handle the running conditions well.

This Saturday, weather permitting a tow&glider meet, let's see how the old lady will perform.[/QUOTE

What oil are you using Brutus? I use nothing but Red Line Racing oil. It's great that your engine cleaned up so easily.

I've had 4 of these Gemini's over the years (one brand new) and every one of them had one cylinder with more compression than the other. Go figure. . . .

I've got a lot of flying to do before I open mine up for a look see but I'll sure post it when I do.

Was it the same cylinder with lower compression on all four Geminis?

That variation in compression between cylinders could be due to the valve timing between cylinders, ring gap leakage, ring groove seating ( leaking around the ring groove ), varying residual oil content in each cylinder... its nice they have bronze valve seats, you can check the valves seal properly... a black sharpie and a little pumas hand cleaner bar soap ... clean the seat faces, apply the sharpie ink to the seat face and rub a little soap on the valve seat face, and spin the valve against the seat and look at the contact mark left in the ink on the seat face... Pumus is perfect or cleaning / lapping the seat faces, as its a very mild abrasive that breaks down into a mica abrasive, and will not embed into the metal surfaces, it just wipes away.

I am using Castrol PowerRS 2stroke.

The black can very well have been "old black" because the engine has not been opened for at least 2 or 3 years, and the electronic mixture correction was only implemented maybe 1 or 1,5 year ago and the engine started to rn noticably cleaner after that.

As for the ring: it found its position within 5 minutes of flight, compression was back to normal after that (slightly lower than the righthand cylinder but no more "spongy" feel to it).

However, the temperature issue that on the ground seemed to have vanished, returned once back in the air and immediately.
So still something not like it used to be.
Going to clean the right hand head first (if it was not the cause of the problem, I want to have at least both sides in equal condition), and then I have to look deeper. It might have something to do with "flight" because on the ground there is no issue, in the air suddenly there is...

Weird.

So what are you experiencing, and change in temperature between cylinders in flight... swap the temp sensors from cylinder to cylinder and see if the issue follows.

The compression on the affected cylinder would have to be considerably lower before it has an detrimental affect on combustion... when that happens, the exhaust temperature will raise as the partial burned mixture continuous to burn as it exits out the exhaust header... a sticky exhaust valve guide can cause that as well.

BTW, there are still NIB ASP FT160AR's available overseas through "aliexpress", asking $720-$740 USD plus a small shipping fee.

There have been in the past several vendors advertising with ASP engines after the factory closed. None of them actually HAD any stock. They just would take your money and you would have to fight to hell and back to get your money returned.

Not going to risk that.

What through aliexpress?... I've only purchased one thing through them using a CC and that was a scorpion outrunner motor that wasn't available here in the states. It arrives within 4 days, with full tracking... had it not arrived, I would have taken recourse through the CCC.

You don't really need a entire engine, just would be nice to have a spare, as they're not a bad reproduction of the os, and the OS is now over $1800 USD

So OS must be producing theirs over in Japan then... mine is clearly marked made in Japan, but that was purchased back in 2004 if I recall correctly... the GF40 40cc gas 4 stroke is made in china, but the quality looks typical to os

That I can't remember. All I know is that I was looking for ASP engines online about a year after production closed, and I found shops (as in, more than one shop, at least 2 or 3) that had the full line up, everything apparently checked out, tech data, pics, everything. Comments and reviews written by people that obviously knew what they were talking about, and not copy paste jobs either at first glance.The only thing I did not swallow was the amounts in stock (the shops I saw had fairly unrealistic stock tallies, like 80+ radials, 150+ Boxers etc etc). I did not trust that, despite being on the lookout for a Boxer.
At least two people I knew from the forms contacted me that they paid and never got their engine.
one year later, suddenly JustEngines received 8 Boxers of which I managed to get one, but I passed that one on to someone who needed it more than I did.

If it's any consolation, older Saitos are near impossible to find parts for.

Update on the Saito 200Ti: The insert is staying put, that's a good thing. After I thoroughly cleaned the fuel tank, lines, carb and remote needle the engine won't stay running. It's not the fueling so I think the magnet ring may have slipped, that or the ignition is whacked. I was getting red faced and had to walk away. More tomorrow, if I cool off by then. Seems this twin is fighting me every step of the way.:rolleyes: I think it's spent more time with a degree wheel on it than a prop.:D

SO I had a try at openX and as predicted it quickly went over my head - It seems like the project has gone dead and there are some pieces missing.. Dave.. What version are you using - I was able to flash it to a pro-mini and thought I had the config right but no dice on any data - it is being recognized by the Graupner as a "module" and it calls up the additional screens but I can't make inputs cause reactions.

I did find a good thread with a fellow trying to set up a dual temp sensor for HOTT but they are using 2 config files (basic and advanced) and my Sketch only had a single Config.H. It seem like some of the parameters are missing from the config file in my sketch.

I am using V8 and tried 7 too as that's the first one with HOTT support. IF you use V7 or V8 could you possibly send a sketch and I will see if I can just convert protocols...

There's a couple versions floating around. I probably have a copy of the source code with the two config files. I'll email it later today with some instructions. You'd just need to revise the steinhart-hart constants and change the telemetry type from s.poet to hott and flash. Post your wiring diagram and I'll make sure it is correct.

I guess the Rcexl ignition is intermittently misfiring at under 4000-5000 rpm on my 200Ti. It goes back and forth between running perfect to misfiring like crazy. It quits so quickly I can't tell if it's one cylinder misfiring or both of them. At higher rpm it seems to run consistent and wiggling wires doesn't seem to affect anything. I ran it on GI again today and all is well, actually runs quite well, so nothing wrong with the fueling.

I don't have another twin ignition to swap out and only have three spark plugs to play with for diagnosis. I guess I'll be ordering a CH twin ignition and a couple of plugs. This engine is still fighting me every step of way. I suppose if I throw enough enough money at it things will work out.:rolleyes:

I had that issue. It quit so abruptly it was throwing props. It was the hall sensor. Swap in another sensor and see if it goes away.

by the way, you can stuff a new sensor into your sensor bracket. Mouser sells loose hall sensors for about a buck a piece.

You had an intermittent hall sensor? Off and on working properly?

CH ign hall sensors are epoxied in place on their aluminum sensor brackets.

Thanks Dave but I found the issue ... Was a Different version - I did get it from the Github but I didn't pull from the master somehow... I got the right version and things started to make sense....

AND success... I have a reading (simulated by voltage) on the Temp pins and its going to the radio.. This will work well - I have to figure the radio telemetry screen setup out as the scale is too low (and its in that dastardly Fahrenheit)

Thanks for your suggestion and the help Dave


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...95499e1d06.jpg

Just returning the favor from yesterday. I managed to finish my great nephew's 1st birthday gift.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c8ae0490dd.jpg

Neato!

Did you 3D print the moon ball and the base?

Downloaded and printed the globe (68 hours) and then designed and printed the base to match the threaded base of the globe and a lamp socket I had. It's got a wifi bulb that dims and changes color.

Power supply OK? Because my radial ignition acted funny like that as well, and that turned out a rotten ignition battery.

Yes Sir.

I talked to Dave about his hall sensor failure. His was kicking the prop off at higher rpm, mine is misfiring at lower rpm. Nevertheless, it's worth a try replacing the hall sensor. The epoxy is curing as we speak. Speaking of which, having to make/buy a special sensor bracket for Saitos is a major pita. The ones from CH that I use have the sensor epoxied into a groove in the bottom of the bracket.

Yup... them Saito's are rather "different" in their design, the tie-rap won't work either.

with sensors failing, they shouldn't require epoxy and thinner to replace.