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-   -   Lathe for conversions (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/engine-conversions-92/4932859-lathe-conversions.html)

tstotts 06-23-2007 08:29 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Thumbs up Capt. That is the way to do it. priorities (building/flying) first. then if there is still time we can do the responsible things. :)

Edwin 06-24-2007 06:36 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Yep! Thats the way to do it. I got rid of a sail boat about 3 years ago. That got rid of a huge load of work and expense.
Edwin

av8tor1977 06-24-2007 07:42 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
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Having the same thoughts... I'm refinishing and painting my Grand National Circle Race boat. Before that it was a complete rebuild on the engine. I don't think I've ever had a "toy" that took so many hours of work for so few of enjoyment!!

I think it's going to get traded off for a big, ugly old cruiser boat just to go out and enjoy from time to time. More time for airplanes and airplane engines that way!

AV8TOR

captinjohn 07-27-2007 03:18 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Hey Guys!! I got that new pace-maker installed a couple of days ago. I feel a lot better already. Just a little sore where the cut was made to fit it in. They say I will feel great in about 2 weeks. Now I am bionic!!!!!!! Capt,n;);)

tim220225 07-27-2007 04:13 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Geesh Capt,n glad your OK. Got ya a ticker for your ticker! :D

Edwin 07-27-2007 05:10 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Really, glad things are ok. My father in-law has one of those little gizzmos in his chest. The Dr told him not to run chain saws. Naturally he ignored them. Says he hasnt noticed any difference.
Edwin

captinjohn 07-27-2007 09:57 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Edwin: You are right about some power tools should be avoided. You know some chain saws viabrate so bad....maby the viabration could travel in your arm and break the small wires going to the heart from pace maker. Or to much spark out-put could effect the devise. Best Regards Capt,n[:-]

mikenlapaz 07-28-2007 01:19 AM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Personal EI cool! :D Wonder what type of batteries it uses? Glad your feeling better.

KenLambert 07-29-2007 12:27 AM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
mine has lithium ion, the problem isnt vibration it is the ignion wire being to close this is why i have to give up mufflers the tig causes interference with my ICD ( pacer/ defibulater )

captinjohn 08-02-2007 09:32 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
I wonder if a thin lead shield would keep interferance away? Seems like it might!!! Capt,n

KenLambert 08-02-2007 10:34 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
no it wont I asked, on the tig you have to keep it under 20 amps according to Medtronics my brand defibulater

longflyer 08-12-2007 01:49 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
ON ONE OF THE RC VIDEOS,, saw a twin that was put together using 26cc motors.. any info from any of you would be great.. i would love to make one.. also i hava china made lathe.. its a 3 in one.. seems to work great for me..
john

tim220225 08-12-2007 03:50 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Hey Longflyer welcome to the metal chip forum! Or is that Metal Illness forum???? :) Your 3 in one will be fine. Nothing happening on these engines that your machine can't do. A bunch of us bought the remaining crankcases that Keith at BME was cleaning out. I have one and will be getting to it soon. These can use 21 or 23.6cc cylinders and cranks.

captinjohn 11-28-2007 11:15 AM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Tim220225: Are you still doing lathe work? I am machining a piston for a Holt 4 cylinder engine. It has a bore of 1.000 inch. The same as a Fox glow engine. You still doing conversions? Best Regards Capt,n;)

tim220225 11-28-2007 12:53 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
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Hey Capt,n, still doing machine work. Been busy machining parts for a Clausing 20" drill press I rebuilt. Paid $175.00 for it and now it looks pretty good for being 44 years old. Makes me wonder how they get upwards of 3 grand on ebay in used shape. Also building a DVIII for my Honda 31cc. Also moved to a new home in May and have been busy with that but now all my machines are up and running. Here are before and after pictures of the drill press. Hardest thing to do was strip the surface rust and free up stuck shafts. Won't ever look like that before picture again with the PPG car paint I shot it with.

Edwin 11-28-2007 02:01 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Wow nice job.
Edwin

captinjohn 11-28-2007 03:51 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Hey Tim....you can park that Drill press in my shop anytime. Very nice job!!;) Capt,n

tim220225 11-28-2007 05:09 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Thanks guys. Dang thing weighs 630 pounds and isn't the easiest to move around. My Bridgeport at 2100 pounds is much easier to move. Had a little Craftsman that was maybe 24 inches tall, move to this and I have plenty of room to position parts.

captinjohn 11-28-2007 09:04 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
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Guys...give me your Ideas please! I need to buy a saw about .015 thick to cut the 4 rods in photo posted. I plan to use the saw in my mill. I think I will drill & tap cap before I cut it off. Then bolt back together and bore big end of rod. Any Ideas where to buy the saw? Also any Ideas od sequence to machine rod will be of great help. All input will be gone over. Thanks Capt,n

tim220225 11-28-2007 11:31 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Capt,n

There is no right or wrong way to run the job. I assume you have no fixtures with the kit so you may need to improvise. Just write it down and plan it through. I would assume the castings are oversize. You need a reference or starting point. I would get one side and both ends flat so you could layout the hole spacing accurately. I would think you have some margin of error in the journal so just get it flat to start. Then drill and tap your rod bolts and slit the cap off. You will need to true the surfaces and bolt them back together to perform the boring and reaming operations. Once your holes are machined and the rod caps created you can go back and fine tune the thickness of the rod. You could machine the flat on the top of the small end of the rod, bore and ream your hole. Make some sort of pin fixture to hold the rod and zero it in so you can machine the flats for the rod bolts. You could use an angle plate as a reference and or part of your fixture(s).

I buy some tooling from Enco, here is a link to the slitting saw blade. .016 is what I found. You will need an arbor too.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PMPXNO=2611414

Hope this helps some.

Tim

captinjohn 11-30-2007 09:13 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Guys: I think I found another good place to purchase taps, drills, and many of the tools us guys use. Try http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm??KNC-T7L391316886& If anyone has tried this company ...let us know what you think! Thanks Capt,n

Ken6PPC 11-30-2007 09:39 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
I've purchased a lot of stuff from MSC for the company I work for. They've always been great to deal with, and will give us a lower price than listed on larger quantities. I bought a few things for myself, but I just bought them through the company and then reimbursed them for what I bought for myself.

I can't say how they would be to deal with as an individual, but I suspect they would be just as professional, even if you were only spending $10 with them.

tim220225 11-30-2007 09:56 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Hey John I use them too as they are easy and 1 day UPS for me. I use Enco more as there is no sales tax for me from them. MSC has a branch in town here so the tax man gets his. I also use www.wttool.com good prices and decent quality.

Here are my ideas on your question from your PM. Figured I would post it here for others as well.

You can think of the slitting saw as a milling cutter. You would use the same formula to calculate spindle RPM or surface feet per minute "FPM" of the cutter. There is a formal formula which uses Pi and is somewhat long. The simple formula which will get you as close is: RPM = 4 X cutting speed (FPM) divided by the diameter of the cutter. There are charts also so pick your method. No matter which formula you use you may need slight adjustments to speed or feed depending on the exact material and the condition of the cutter. That being said your 2 inch cutter would work as follows: The cutting speed for bronze is between 80 and 140 FPM with HSS cutters. I use the average to start so call it 110 FPM. 4 times 110 = 440 divided by the 2 inch diameter of the cutter is 220. So your spindle RPM should be set to 220 RPM to start. Too much speed will lessen the cutters life meaning it will burn up, and fast, so fast that you may not even finish the first cut. Speed equals heat in HSS. There are stagger tooth cutters but those are for thicker material usually. Carbide will last a long time and will cut about four times as fast but they charge more too for the luxury. You can make an arbor with a simple bar using a bolt in the end with a washer through the arbor hole in the cutter. I would pin or use a small screw where the key broach is in the cutter to keep it from spinning. I assume you will be running this in your lathe so make sure the teeth cut on the down stroke so you don't rip the part from the fixture. You can do it. Good luck.

Tim

captinjohn 11-30-2007 11:34 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
I need to split off rod cap. I intend to use mill. Arbor will be in a vertical position. The splitting saw will be running horizonal. The rod will be in milling vise in a vertical position. I am thinking 2 inch saw .020 thick. Lots of teeth. Speed??? Some lube? Should work...right!!!!! Capt,n[X(]

tim220225 11-30-2007 11:40 PM

RE: Lathe for conversions
 
Speed would be the same calculation be it mill, lathe, drill press etc. Keep your setup shallow in the vise and tight to keep deflection to about none. You will know if you have RPM or feed wrong.


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