blue1004

Is it fine to spray the WD-40 inside the cylinder and into the carburetor of the model engine before long-term storage?

Hinckley Bill

My Feedback: (569)

Lots of information out there on the benefits and shortfalls of WD-40...some folks swear by it, others swear at it. It really is more of a 'water replacement' product then a 'rust preventative' product...in fact there's information that indicates WD-40 actually attracts water because its hygroscopic. I use a little Corrosion X and have never been disappointed by the results

AJ Sun

Good post best stuff Ive found none of my engines have corrosion some over 69 years sense I bought them I am talking Fox znd Mc Coy. Oh.they have been rebuilt but I use Mouse milk. And AFT fluid. Marvel mystery oil I use after a flight. Wd 40 no forms rust does not prevent it. I use to use air tool oil. It's a good rust preventer. Just had issues starting the engine and gumming it Up. Caster oil is a must in our old engines. I usec25% caster in my U Control engines.AJ

pacoflyer

My Feedback: (23)

WD 40 is a popular product but would not be my first choice. It does displace moisture but also acts as a solvent and would wash away any lubricant. I prefer Marvel Mystery for short term storage and Ultra Oil or Mobile one for longer terms...

mgnostic

WD-40 has it uses but It doesn't go in my airplanes. Personally , I prefer gun oils since they don't dry out as quickly but any of the alternatives mentioned above will work . Any oil will get gummy eventually. That's the problem with castor oil over the long term. Another thing to avoid is silicone based lubricants, The silicon can contaminate the catalyst in the glow plug.

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

I have been using marine storage oils or marine fogging oils on my boats for years. Since its on the shelf already naturally I just use it in both my nitro and gas model motors. I figure if its good enough for full size it will work fine for the smaller ones. Most important is to get all the cumbustable fuel out of the engine especially alcohol and nitro. Empty the fuel tank and keep flipping or use the electric starter until the engine does not bark any more. Run it completely out of fuel then oil it down.

I often use WD40 to clean the outside of the motor and wipe it dry for storage but I don't use it inside the motor. Same with my lathe and mill in my garage when I clean them. Last two steps is to spray down the machines with WD40 then wipe dry. Final step is to use the proper oil for the proper application. Spindle oil, way lube etc.

I make a habit of only using oil/lube that is specifically designed to be used inside motors and WD40, air tool oil etc. is not what I would choose.

These are just my opinions and practices and not the only things that seem to work.

Cvans

I've used WD-40 for loosening up engines that are gummed up with old castor oil. I wouldn't use it for a rust preventative or as an after run oil. Marvel Mystery oil or even 2 cycle oil would be better.

impactiq

My Feedback: (57)

The absolute best I have used is Corrosion X for after run oil and long term storage as long as you engine isn’t a pumped engine with silicone parts.

Lee Taylor

I use machine oil for things like that. Work it throughout the engine by flipping the prop. When rebuilding my jet ski engine (it had to sit for a some time, while waiting on parts) I covered the cylinder walls with grease. I wiped the walls clean and replaced the grease with machine oil prior to assembly. Taking off the head on a model may be more than you want to do. If you were to use grease for protection.... do not work it into the engine

Machine oil:



ps: The jet ski engine is re-assembled, installed, and running like new