Saito FG60R3 new, need advice
05-22-2024, 06:00 AM
#1
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Saito FG60R3 new, need advice
Got a new FG60R3 yesterday.
I have a couple questions if you have experience with this engine.
1. Why were the exhaust valve lases set to zero from the factory?
2. How can I tell if this engine has all the updated modifications?
3. Is the latest backing plate/timing an issue?
4. Does my engine have the bushing on the master rod?
5. What oil are you using and how long have you been using it in this engine?
Why does such a good company like Saito have issues like this?
Thanks for your input.
I have a couple questions if you have experience with this engine.
1. Why were the exhaust valve lases set to zero from the factory?
2. How can I tell if this engine has all the updated modifications?
3. Is the latest backing plate/timing an issue?
4. Does my engine have the bushing on the master rod?
5. What oil are you using and how long have you been using it in this engine?
Why does such a good company like Saito have issues like this?
Thanks for your input.
05-23-2024, 10:34 AM
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Got a test stand built.
Started it up following instructions for break in.
Engine likes to be wet so far.
A finger over the carb and one turn on the prop has it wet.
Then flip flip flip etc.
Everything is rich right now, so I expect that.
#3 was not firing all the time.
Switched plugs with #1 and the problem stayed with #3.
However at higher rpm, it fires most of the time.
I suspect rich mixture causing it.
Might have a bad plug wire or ignition box.
Could be just too rich right now.
Haven't messed with the low speed mixture yet.
Ran one tank of gas through so far.
Letting it cool and then I'll run another.
Getting some video.
Oil is synthetic racing oil 15:1
Prop is a 20x8 ( too small, I know )
watching rpm and not exceeding 6000
Any suggestions or comments welcome
Started it up following instructions for break in.
Engine likes to be wet so far.
A finger over the carb and one turn on the prop has it wet.
Then flip flip flip etc.
Everything is rich right now, so I expect that.
#3 was not firing all the time.
Switched plugs with #1 and the problem stayed with #3.
However at higher rpm, it fires most of the time.
I suspect rich mixture causing it.
Might have a bad plug wire or ignition box.
Could be just too rich right now.
Haven't messed with the low speed mixture yet.
Ran one tank of gas through so far.
Letting it cool and then I'll run another.
Getting some video.
Oil is synthetic racing oil 15:1
Prop is a 20x8 ( too small, I know )
watching rpm and not exceeding 6000
Any suggestions or comments welcome
Last edited by SS_Dave69; 05-23-2024 at 10:36 AM.
05-23-2024, 01:51 PM
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OK, all is well.
Had a problem with #3 missing most of the time.
The problem was the low mixture screw was backed out about 10 turns too far, if they even set it.
I think they did not.
Have a great idle and transition off of idle to full power.
I ran 70 ounces through it. Instructions say 1 liter of fuel at 15:1.
That is 33 oz. So, I think its good.
Next is to get a 22x8 or 10 prop and get it in the Beaver.
Engine seems strong.
Had a problem with #3 missing most of the time.
The problem was the low mixture screw was backed out about 10 turns too far, if they even set it.
I think they did not.
Have a great idle and transition off of idle to full power.
I ran 70 ounces through it. Instructions say 1 liter of fuel at 15:1.
That is 33 oz. So, I think its good.
Next is to get a 22x8 or 10 prop and get it in the Beaver.
Engine seems strong.
05-27-2024, 03:51 PM
#9
Engine break in
OK, all is well.
Had a problem with #3 missing most of the time.
The problem was the low mixture screw was backed out about 10 turns too far, if they even set it.
I think they did not.
Have a great idle and transition off of idle to full power.
I ran 70 ounces through it. Instructions say 1 liter of fuel at 15:1.
That is 33 oz. So, I think its good.
Next is to get a 22x8 or 10 prop and get it in the Beaver.
Engine seems strong.
Had a problem with #3 missing most of the time.
The problem was the low mixture screw was backed out about 10 turns too far, if they even set it.
I think they did not.
Have a great idle and transition off of idle to full power.
I ran 70 ounces through it. Instructions say 1 liter of fuel at 15:1.
That is 33 oz. So, I think its good.
Next is to get a 22x8 or 10 prop and get it in the Beaver.
Engine seems strong.
I have run a 22x10 but opted for a 20x12 for the first couple of litres of running, 6,800rpm on the ground.
I now have the engine tweaked rather well and performance is great (greens models gee bee)
A friend has the same set-up but with 22x10, better top speed..
But i actually like the throttle response for aerobatics.
I also made a couple of changes to the engine, intake manifold and especially ignition timing, i dont like running an engine at 45° btdc not great for a engine
And these radials are out of wack timing wise
06-02-2024, 05:15 AM
#10
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These radials take a little time and effort to break in,
I have run a 22x10 but opted for a 20x12 for the first couple of litres of running, 6,800rpm on the ground.
I now have the engine tweaked rather well and performance is great (greens models gee bee)
A friend has the same set-up but with 22x10, better top speed..
But i actually like the throttle response for aerobatics.
I also made a couple of changes to the engine, intake manifold and especially ignition timing, i dont like running an engine at 45° btdc not great for a engine
And these radials are out of wack timing wise
I have run a 22x10 but opted for a 20x12 for the first couple of litres of running, 6,800rpm on the ground.
I now have the engine tweaked rather well and performance is great (greens models gee bee)
A friend has the same set-up but with 22x10, better top speed..
But i actually like the throttle response for aerobatics.
I also made a couple of changes to the engine, intake manifold and especially ignition timing, i dont like running an engine at 45° btdc not great for a engine
And these radials are out of wack timing wise
The next plan is to check the timing.
I have read 30 deg is best.
My DLE-40 twin recommended 27deg
I might experiment with a slide plate on the ignition pickup to advance and retard it, just like the Model-T
06-06-2024, 07:39 AM
#11
My Feedback: (21)
If you want it to survive keep the rpms around 6,000. I've seen several of these break their master rods from trying to run like a normal 2 stroke gas engine of the same size,~ 7,000 rpm.
I have done an autopsy on a 60 and a 90, both over revved and broke the master rod to con rod section on the master rod. Their is very little meat there and both failed in the same place. Converting a glow design to gas has always seemed a little iffy to me.
Larry
I have done an autopsy on a 60 and a 90, both over revved and broke the master rod to con rod section on the master rod. Their is very little meat there and both failed in the same place. Converting a glow design to gas has always seemed a little iffy to me.
Larry
06-07-2024, 01:24 AM
#12
Factory settings on exhaust valve lases might just be standard procedure, easily adjusted. Ensuring all updates are in place might require checking serial numbers or contacting Saito. Backing plate and timing issues vary, so staying informed is key.
