idol

I have picked up today 2 extended servo arms for the Hunter.

They seem long and have 5 holes on each one.

I dont think they fit without cuting them of cuting the fuselage!?....

So my question is do I have to cut the arms and if so after which hole? Furthermore, on which hole should I conect the links on the second or even farther?

Thanks!

Hawksbill

Hey, Idol!

I recently modified my Hunter's servo arms as well. On the one that determines fore and aft movement I put it on the 2nd hole from the end. This gave me a much more dramatic movement forward and backward. Since I didn't need quite so much side to side movement I put that one in the middle hole. Then, as you have guessed, I tried to put the body back on and noticed that it didn't fit properly.

Rather than cut into the body I instead took some nail clippers and trimmed off the ends of the servo arms that I wasn't using. The made them short enough to "just" allow me to put the body back on. Now, when I use my cyclic stick for fore/aft/port and starboard movement the servo arms rub against the inside of the body and move it around a little, but it does not seem to cause any problems.

I was satisfied enough with this approach. I really didn't want to cut slits in the body.

Hope this helps!

-jd

idol

Hey jd,

Thanks a lot!

I didnt quite understand the seting you mentioned.

When you say "second hole from the end" do you mean counting from the side the arm conects to the servo or from where the arm ends (the tip of the arm)?

With respect to the other servo... what do you mean by " in the midle hole"? isnt the midle hole even farther then the second hole and thus movment is even greater!?

Did you also modify to a longer shaft?

Thanks

pgroom_68

Wheelnut it is all up to you now - I know that you do own/have owned both!

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]

pgroom_68

Hey again Ido,

The servo arms holes are counted {when they are already mounted} from the servo end itself to the tip - so when Hawksbill was refering to the 4th hole he would have been talking about one hole from the tip. Yes, the third hole does give better response than the first or second.
Yes, he is running the same length extended shaft that you are awaiting....

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. If you do get "rubbing problems" you may trim the arm between the 4th and 5th hole (cut off the tip) and then file it smooth and slightly rounded - leaving a little clearance. That way you don't need to cut slits in your fuselage at all![:'(]

Hawksbill

Yep. What he said.

pgroom_68

Sorry for interjecting JD,

You were offline and I didn't know if you would be coming back before Ido.

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Peter, you said it pretty good right here.
The co-comanche / lama V4 and the Hunter are all different. The difference mainly lies in the under carriage and battery trays. So, if you want to exchange the canopy, you will also have to change the other stuff. If anyone is interested I have a complete Co-Comanche canopy set-up for sale. $15.00 shipped anywhere in the US.

idol

But will the battery tray of the Comanche fit to the holes in the hunter. If the hole botom Shasi needs to be replaced its not worth it.

idol

Thanks!

Why is left and right are not needed!? Why arnt they equal to forward and backwords?

pgroom_68

Hey again Ido,

The commanche and Hunter have very different undercarriages and I think it is NOT worth changing canopies...

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

pgroom_68

Hey again Ido,

I don't use the same amount of left & right roll (controlled by the same aileron servo) as forward/backward cyclic (controlled by the same elevator servo). The "throw" or extent of movement of the aileron servo therefore doesn't need to be as much.....

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. I have typed all the facts in one post - [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8876563]here[/link].

stalyoni

i hate to report Pete that i broke your precious superskids 200.

I was flying it out the front of my flat yesterday arvo and it took a spill from the second story. I did notice while flying with them that flight was a little laggy. I still think the boom town skids are the best. It was a hassle taking the super skids off all the time as well.

Im absolutely loving my new yellow CX2 canopy. It looks so much better now.

Anyways hope everyone is having fun flying

pgroom_68

[][X(][sm=confused.gif]......I just ordered two sets of ultra-skids from BoomtownHobbies.com.

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Boomtownhobbies only has the RED eflite canopy in stock - the yellow is OUT[:@]
P.P.S. Just sent you a PM.

idol

Thanks a lot!!

I'll be waiting the parts ordered and report how it all went.

Do you think I should imidiatly use the extended servo arm setting indicated? I't might be to of a sharp movment to me!? Should I start with closer servo holes?

Ido

pgroom_68

Hey again Ido,

It is up to you - baby steps is always better, but I am suggesting that you do everything at once (make all the upgrades at the same time) - so you only have to remove fuselage once!

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

idol

Thanks Peter,

So just to make sure I should set the forward and backward servo at the 4th hole (second from the tip) and the other servo at hole no' 3? Isnt is better that left and right motion will be set the same as forward and backwords?

Following installing all upgraids, do you think any tuning will be needed (via 4 in 1 or any other way)?

Good day!

pgroom_68

Hey again Ido,

The main tuning you will need to do is re-[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8876563]leveling the swashplate[/link]. My guess is that after you install the metal upgrades your swashplate will be tilted rearwards and you will need to lengthen (by CCW twisting) the control arm connected to your elevator (portside) servo.....two full twists as a starting point There may be a little proportional tuning, but you are mainly changing the inner shaft, swashplate, lower hub and the flybar. The after-market blades will be the upgrade that may make the proportional need "tweaking" - but the blades might be just a straight swap (noone knows until you try them)

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. You are correct about 4th hole (or 3rd if you are adopting "baby steps") for the forward/backward servo, and the aileron goes straight to No 3. You will find that you don't need to have left/right roll as sensitive as forward/backward flight at any time.

pgroom_68

Hey again Ido,

You've probably seen these Hunter videos - but they tempt me to buy a Hunter for myself now
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLZtYqRsQiw&NR=1]Esky-Hunter.wmv[/link]
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVGp6c9RNdI&NR=1]Esky Hunter - Bubbasheli[/link]
and a [link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoPl1qay_xQ&NR=1&feature=fvwp]E-sky Hunter Helicopter Review: by Nightflyyer[/link] - my favourite reviewer Dave Herbert

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

Kelownan

My Feedback: (1)

hey pete, good to see your still here helpin out the new guys. 3 cheers for pete,

Just had the motherlode of all power failures, power was out for 200k's other than the constant showers disturbing my flying today it has been rather slow round my neck of the woods.

Hats of to the Ozzies battling the flames up north, Floods, Dust storms and now Brutal inferno's what could happen next,

anyhooooo on to lama stuff, im gonna try out modding a hunter fuse to fit my lama,
havin some trouble with my home made flybar, i think i cut it too long, are you able to measure yours?

idol

Hi Peter,

Thank you for the detailed answers!!

I think I have all the required information and just have to wait for the parts (hate waiting)!!

I did see the above movies and some of them made me choose the Hunter. I can tell you I'm not sorry!

Ido

pgroom_68

Hey again Kel,

...don't tempt fate mate! earthquake, tidalwave taking out Sydney - h@ll, it could be anything with these weird weather patterns[&o] Tell us in detail how the mod works out - OK? I might want to do it later - as I DO like the look of that Hunter fuse. [sm=50_50.gif]I think it would be even better if it was cut diagonally to make two halves - just like L4 - something to think about (if it is possible I'm sure you will do it all being a Kiwi)

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Ido, I H-A-T-E waiting also......[:'(][X(]

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Peter, I disagree. I think you should do one upgrade at a time and see how it affects how the heli flies. If you do a whole bunch of upgrades at once and there is a problem, you don't know where to begin, or at least it will be harder to trouble shoot. I have learned this the hard way.

There is no question that the earth is under-going change faster than usual. There are entire countries, mostly islands. That are planning to move their entire population to larger land masses in the event of problems. They are predicting the sea levels to rise 2 ft in the next 90 years. That means your grand children won't live in the same world that we do.

stalyoni

pete kel wants to know how long our flybars are mate and i dont have a ruler here. You told me last week how far in you put the weights.

Kel I dont think it matters all that much how long it is but its how far in you have the weights that matters.

Im back to using the boom town skids. Not to impressed with the superskids. I broke the stock set on the HBFPV2 and replaced them with the superskids 400, lets hope they hold out.

pgroom_68

Hey again Wheelnut,

Something else - I live on the world's biggest island - to be thankful for![sm=what_smile.gif]
Re. upgrades - there are some (such as installing the extended shaft & full-length servo arms) that are best done together, and since Ido has ordered everything together - I think it would avoid problems later - you are here to help him out with anything that arises

Peter[sm=49_49.gif]