orlbuzz

Ok, so I bought a barebones kit and outfitted it with all good components (see my setup at end). I thought this might be a good intermediate step between my BCPP and T-Rex. Build and setup was no problem after setting up the other two helis and using "Bob's"videos. Then I tried to track the blades-couldn't get them to track. I have the turnbuckles as I had read that the HBKII is hard to track. I greased the spindle, tried a new spindle, and finally a new set of blades. That seems to have done it, but I'm not sure yet because on the first hover with the new blades, the darn tail rotor blade control arm came apart. So I took that apart and foolishly pushed it together and couldn't get it to come apart again. So I reassembled everything and tried to hover again. It came apart immediately. Today I started to take it apart again, and both of the darn tail rotor blade fixed shaft (hub) allen heads stripped. I managed to get one of them tight and I have an allen wrench with threadlock on it drying now to see if I can at least get it tight for this long weekend. I may be wasting my time, though, as it looks like the brass ferrule inside is supposed to be "crimped" over at both ends to hold it all together. I have never had an allen head strip on the Pro or the T-Rex. I have quality allen wrenches.

I know, I know, I could convert to a T-Rex tail assembly, and I think I have a spare, but I would really like to form my own impressions about this heli before I do any other "non-stock" mods!

Am I right about the brass ferrule being crimped to hold the control arm together? Maybe I can "swedge" it over on the weak end to get it to stay on.

From what little flying about I've done, even with untracked blades, I think I will like this little heli, if I ever get it set up!!!

Thanks for sharing my frustration.

Happy Independence Day to all of us "Yanks"

Barebones Kit
Logictech LTG-2100T Gyro
Futaba S3154 digital micro servo
HS55's on swash
Esky 3900Kv Brushless Motor
Dynam 40A Brushless ESC BEC 2A/5V
Spektrum DX7
Spektrum AR6100e
1 FlightPower LiPo 1345mAh Evo Lite
1 Thunderpower 1320 ProLite
43t pulley Extreme Productions
titanium turnbuckles with B400 links

kenhiraihnl

yes, it's crimped/flared...before i converted to the trex slider, i used a little ca and flared it it keep it in place...ken

Zimatosa

I am not totally positive what you mean by this but the control arm itself has 2 brass bushings that are inserted (one rides inside the other). A screw is then inserted through the bushings and into a plastic hollow "pole". Nothing here is crimped....

In the fixed shaft itself, since the screws are inserted into metal, you could use thread lock on them anyway to keep them from backing out. There is nothing in this part either that needs or should be crimped. Can you post a picture of the exact problem and parts. We might be labeling parts a tad different?

Sorry if this is no help, I know your frustrations though...

Z

Zimatosa

Yah....I must have the wrong idea of what the problem is. I still have never had to crimp anything to make it hold or work. I am confused!

[sm=confused.gif]

Z

orlbuzz

That's ok, Zimatosa, I used the terminology straight from the manual, which could confuse anyone.

Just re-read my post and see where you could have gotten confused, I jumped subjects.

This is the part I'm talking about, the one on the right.

I appreciate everyone's input. Misery loves company, lol.

orlbuzz

kenhiraihnl

yup...that's the part - the one on the right...the brass ferrule is pressed in...you can see it...the other end of the ferrule is slightly flared to keep the slider and yoke in one piece...if the flare fails, the slider and yoke will separate...the slider will then move, but the yoke will not, resulting in greatly reduced travel on the yoke and blade grips...imho, if you get the trex 1199 or 1201-72 (more bling), your tail travel and binding troubles will disappear...ken

http://www.readyheli.com/HS1199_Tail...s_p/hs1199.htm

hey z...hope this answers your pm to me...

Zimatosa

Yep!! I have never had the problem you two have apparently suffered. I look forward to this failure now since I will know exactly how to fix it, thanks to the both of you!

Peace,

Z

Zimatosa

P.S.

I almost bought the Trex aluminum version of this just the other day for $13.99. I did the fix on the link with my drill to allow for more flex but figured the trex piece with the hinge would be nicer. That set of parts you posted looks like a pretty good deal for everything. Decisions, decisions..