Need advice
#1
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From: gilbert, AZ
I noticed that my esky digital servos have a very small range of throw and im not getting the response that i want. Will these servos http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12859 have more throw and increase my response? If not, what can i do to increase the response? Im still using stock transmitter. Okay i just tried something, with my honeybee fixed pitch and its transmitter i get a lot of servo movement, but when i switched the crystal to the transmitter that came with the king, it instantly halfed the amount of capable travel with the servos. So essentially the problem is the transmitter and it limits the servo travel. Is there anyway to adjust the servo travel on the stock trans?
#2
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From: Beebe,
AR
I am not 100% sure but I believe you can adjust your pitch/servo travel with the two knobs at the top of your king TX . I think the one on the left may adjust the zero pitch point and the one on the right may adjust your total amount of travel. You could just unplug the motor and play with them and see what you get.
I just got a King RTF my self but I have not done my setup on it yet...
I just got a King RTF my self but I have not done my setup on it yet...
#3
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From: Osoyoos,
BC, CANADA
Not a lot you can do with the stock Tx for these heli's. What you can do to get more throw is to move the linkage to the very ends of the horn. This will increase the quickness of the heli. This small helis are fast and most complain to twitchy because they are fast. So most people move the linkage closer to the center to reduce the 'twitchiness'.
The servo's usually have a package there somewhere that will have several different types of horns... just choose one thats a little longer if needed. But on the Tx it self?? not much you can do with it.
hope this helps some.
happy fly'n
#4
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From: gilbert, AZ
Alright thanks for the help. Okay i've got some questions. What does the switch at the top right do? (the one that returns to its position when you let go. Secondly, how can i increase agility in this heli? Is it possible to remove the weights attached to the flybar paddles? Are there lighter paddles that will fit the king 2? Is there any other way to increase response? I ask because i tried to do a barrel roll a few days ago, and it was so slow on cyclic.
edit: Okay i removed the flybar weights attached to the paddles, they just unscrew and then you can screw the paddle back onto the flybar. There is no set screw to hold it in place, but i don't think it needs it. I had another helicopter that had it this way. Anyway im still waiting for parts so i can't fly yet but im sure it will be quite quick! Just curious though, has anyone else done this? And are there any risks for doing this (obviously i know it will be more of a handful) But i mean like boom strikes or anything? Sorry for so many questions.
Thanks
edit: Okay i removed the flybar weights attached to the paddles, they just unscrew and then you can screw the paddle back onto the flybar. There is no set screw to hold it in place, but i don't think it needs it. I had another helicopter that had it this way. Anyway im still waiting for parts so i can't fly yet but im sure it will be quite quick! Just curious though, has anyone else done this? And are there any risks for doing this (obviously i know it will be more of a handful) But i mean like boom strikes or anything? Sorry for so many questions.
Thanks
#5
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From: orlando,
FL
remove the flybar weights is what you want to do if you're gonna be doing 3d. removing them will increase cyclic response. you should have no issues by removing them. my trex450sa dont have weights on the flybar. it rolls around itself alot faster.
#6
ORIGINAL: noobflyer01
remove the flybar weights is what you want to do if you're gonna be doing 3d. removing them will increase cyclic response. you should have no issues by removing them. my trex450sa dont have weights on the flybar. it rolls around itself alot faster.
remove the flybar weights is what you want to do if you're gonna be doing 3d. removing them will increase cyclic response. you should have no issues by removing them. my trex450sa dont have weights on the flybar. it rolls around itself alot faster.
simple, and it works !!
#7
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From: South City,
CA
servos move the same amount generaly less there for robots or some digital programmable ones but for the most part they move in a 60 deg arc. If you change your tx crystal you need to change your rx one also to match it.
Your old king and your new one have diff radio systems and are not really 100% compatible, it was in a thread here before. Move the weights back in toward the center and move the links an the servo arms out one hole. That will liven up the heli quiet a bit. King ll are twitchy as it is and can be very fast acting. btw are you running the stock motor and esc. Also change your pitch settings to about -1 at closed stick and 3 or 4 at half stick and full stick should be about 7-8. This will NOT work with a stock motor you need a brushless motor for the power to get up headspeed with the above settings.
Heres an attachmet of what those knobs do, actually if your doing barrel rolls I would assume you have a brushless setup and already know what they should do, but here ya go.
See the attachment.
Your old king and your new one have diff radio systems and are not really 100% compatible, it was in a thread here before. Move the weights back in toward the center and move the links an the servo arms out one hole. That will liven up the heli quiet a bit. King ll are twitchy as it is and can be very fast acting. btw are you running the stock motor and esc. Also change your pitch settings to about -1 at closed stick and 3 or 4 at half stick and full stick should be about 7-8. This will NOT work with a stock motor you need a brushless motor for the power to get up headspeed with the above settings.
Heres an attachmet of what those knobs do, actually if your doing barrel rolls I would assume you have a brushless setup and already know what they should do, but here ya go.
See the attachment.
#8
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From: gilbert, AZ
thanks everyone! I still have not received my main gear from ka-planes. Been almost a week. Im running 3800kv with dynam 30 esc and 10 tooth pinion. My king came with stock outer holes on the arms of the servos. I think anothere reason it was so slow was because i was using the stock battery and wasn't able to provide the adequate juice.
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From: South City,
CA
Hmm you have 2 switchs and one knob on the left side. I think you mean the two toggle switchs.
One switch is marked unless you have a HH gyro it doesnt do anything. If you have a Head Holding gyro it is in normal or rate mode when its in the down postion and in Head Hold when in the UP postion.
The other switch is for Idle up. Unless you are ready to fly stunt leave it in the down postion. When it is in the UP position it sets your left stick so that it is at full power, full pitch when the stick is full forward and full power NEGATIVE pitch when at the back or down postition (used when flying inverted for example). To cut the power and no pitch is right in the middle. This is in the manual but not discribed, good to ask BEFORE you flip that switch in flight[X(].
You also have a switch on the right side marked TRN its for training, NOT anything to do with a simulator as someone suggested on another thread.
A cable is hooked up between your radio and a another just like it designated the "Trainer" He lets you fly by holding his switch in the up position (notice its spring loaded) IF you get in trouble he can take over by simply releasing the switch which will remove control from your radio and transfer it to his.
Oh btw the forum would not let me post that attachment in MS word so I had to use notebook. If you copy it and paste it to your word processor program it will ok and not have the mile long sentances.
One switch is marked unless you have a HH gyro it doesnt do anything. If you have a Head Holding gyro it is in normal or rate mode when its in the down postion and in Head Hold when in the UP postion.
The other switch is for Idle up. Unless you are ready to fly stunt leave it in the down postion. When it is in the UP position it sets your left stick so that it is at full power, full pitch when the stick is full forward and full power NEGATIVE pitch when at the back or down postition (used when flying inverted for example). To cut the power and no pitch is right in the middle. This is in the manual but not discribed, good to ask BEFORE you flip that switch in flight[X(].
You also have a switch on the right side marked TRN its for training, NOT anything to do with a simulator as someone suggested on another thread.
A cable is hooked up between your radio and a another just like it designated the "Trainer" He lets you fly by holding his switch in the up position (notice its spring loaded) IF you get in trouble he can take over by simply releasing the switch which will remove control from your radio and transfer it to his.
Oh btw the forum would not let me post that attachment in MS word so I had to use notebook. If you copy it and paste it to your word processor program it will ok and not have the mile long sentances.
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From: South City,
CA
Your battery running low will not effect your servo speed as you have a seperate power supply for that in the form of a BEC thats that conn that comes off the esc and goes to the RX. It is at a constent 5 volts. IF your battery could run down to 5 volts it would become landfill as it would be totally useless and cant be charged at that point.
The analog and digital servos are about the same speed and torque (you cannot see if one servo is .03 of a second faster then another) by eye.
The analog and digital servos are about the same speed and torque (you cannot see if one servo is .03 of a second faster then another) by eye.
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From: Edmonton,
AB, CANADA
Well the voltage is supposed to be constant but it really isn't. The voltage will drop or spike depending on the draw from the various components, this was the reason that spektrum receivers were having their reboot problems with low voltage. This is a problem with most linear bec's that are built into escs. Most ubecs do not have this problem.
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From: South City,
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Yes but that was the reboot problem. It will not make your servos slow down to the point that you can see the diff in speed. When the voltage is that low the rec will just quit and start its little reboot action. Actually I found out by putting my 6100 on a variable power supply it started to cut out at about 4.5 to 4.4 volts that is much less then any bec on a ESC is putting out and since he is running stock Esky size servos were not looking at a great current draw here 4 little servos and one gyro (servo) is really not going to hit 2-3 amps on a little King now if he was running say a digital servo and a 401 gyro I could see it if the esc could only put out 2a and he was doing some serious flying such as 3d where the everything was under a load all the time.
I run 3 hs-65 and a my gyro is in HH with the gain up right now so it is busy and my ESC is only rated at 2a. According to there specs I can only run 3-4 servos but in real life I am running 5 if you include my gyro as a servo and I have no problems and I doubt of many others do as far as current draw. A bec is actually more effecent at a lower output voltage then at a full batter voltage as it has to dissapate the the higher voltage pushed into it as heat then at a lower voltage which produces less heat.
I have tried a stepping ubec on my king and noticed no diff in servo speed or performance and I know of another king user (Zimatosa) that ran a Ubec (for about the same reason) and went back to to the built in bec after noticicing no diff in performance; but like I said if I was running 4 digital servos and a say 401 gyro it might be a diff ballgame
Myself I have a hard time watching servo go from one stop to the other and counting the mili seconds it takes and being able to say that it is slower now. To me a 1.8 second servo moves as fast as a .09 servo when I eyeball it.
I run 3 hs-65 and a my gyro is in HH with the gain up right now so it is busy and my ESC is only rated at 2a. According to there specs I can only run 3-4 servos but in real life I am running 5 if you include my gyro as a servo and I have no problems and I doubt of many others do as far as current draw. A bec is actually more effecent at a lower output voltage then at a full batter voltage as it has to dissapate the the higher voltage pushed into it as heat then at a lower voltage which produces less heat.
I have tried a stepping ubec on my king and noticed no diff in servo speed or performance and I know of another king user (Zimatosa) that ran a Ubec (for about the same reason) and went back to to the built in bec after noticicing no diff in performance; but like I said if I was running 4 digital servos and a say 401 gyro it might be a diff ballgame
Myself I have a hard time watching servo go from one stop to the other and counting the mili seconds it takes and being able to say that it is slower now. To me a 1.8 second servo moves as fast as a .09 servo when I eyeball it.



