Has anyone upgraded to brushless motors for this type of heli.
They look a lot smaller than the original brushed ones, probally a lot lighter too.
My question is can these motors just be plugged into the the 4 in one or is there a ESC.
I really dont know too much about these co axial helis except they are a lot of fun, and fairly easy to fly.
Also thinking of going with the full CNC rotor head.

I think the co comanchie is the same as the lama V2 and V3 .
That means all the parts are interchangeable. Please correct me if im wrong.

Thanks in advance

Hey Nick,

The commanche is about 95% compatable with the smaller Lama coaxial parts. Most of the internal parts (including the motors) is a straight swap. But be cautioned. MOST BL motors indeed need a different 2 x ESC (part of the 4in1) - unless a piece of electronics called 2 x "BL converters" is supplied. If you want more info - please supply a link to the BL conversion that you intend to buy.................
Also a flier who calls himself "Wheelnut" - PM him[sm=wink_smile.gif] - actually had a commanche (and sold the fuselage) due to it being a "headache" to take off and put on every time you must alter the links - or do any service-type things to his bird![:'(] He upgraded it with the Xtreme pod and boom kit and the fuselage was obsolete. After doing this, his commanche parts were nearly totally interchangeable with Lama4 parts which are readily available.......
P.P.S. The first upgrade that you should be considering is the blades - to [link=http://www.boomtownhobbies.com/category_s/40.htm]Xtremes[/link] (available in three colours - white, blue & yellow - scroll down within post), but don't forget to order uppers AND lowers.

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. The full [link=http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RC-Esky-LAMA-v3-v4-ESKY-300-Upgrade-FULL-Metal-Head-SR-/250468592177?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Radio_Control_Parts_A ccessories&hash=item3a51176a31#ht_2664wt_948]CNC Rotor Head set[/link] is great if you go with the cheapest available and DON'T INSTALL THE BLADE GRIPS. Reinstall the original black plastic ones.

Gentlemen,

I can not wholeheartedly agree to this! Granted, this cheap CNC set will do the job it is supposed to do (if you keep a few "precautions" in mind and 'perfect' it far enough that it actually will do its job) - but ... sorry Peter ... I think it is a bit much to call it "perfect" ...

... "Perfect" - if I may say so - IMHO is a combination of several different parts (where you will not even get ONE for the price of this set ... well, maybe a stock blade holder, but as soon as you add a blade reinforment that almost doesn't count anymore .... )

... this would be my current "suggestion of perfect" - if you don't mind me adding:

* aluminum upper rotor head with adjustable weights flybar:
This could be a stock flybar modded with adjustable weights or an Xtreme flybar (all aluminum hub and rods for LEDflybar combined with wheel collars or actually "real" flybar weights) that you combine with almost any type of aluminum upper head (one of my favorites would be the 3Dpro from rc711 (if you want to stay on the more modest track in terms of price - but already more expensive than the set from the link)
You could also consider a Skytec head that comes already with an integrated adjustable weights flybar - but that would be obviously more expensive
* stock plastic blade holder with blade grip reinforcement
* helitek-rc supershaft 2.0
* Skytec upper bearing housing (get a ceramic hybrid bearing for it (for example from helidirect) - it is the only one that is not just press fit on the outer shaft!
* Skytec lower rotor head (why? because it is the only one that is made from ONE piece!)
* Xtreme (lower) aluminum blade grip (again - why? because on the lower rotor an aluminum grip actually show noticeable performance gain, which is not necessarily the case on the upper head)
* swash - well here you could use the one from a cheap set, but (again, just MHO) that would be suboptimal - better would be one that allows for larger servo throw (ie at least the one from Xtreme, or the one from Skytec, which allows for the biggest throw of all of them without binding if you apply full forward/left cyclic and have your swashlinks in the 3rd or 4th hole in the servo horn (be honest, who really needs the 5th hole??)
* Skytec set collar (because it has 2 grub screws instead of one Phillips screw to mount to the outer shaft - and this is a lot less of a PITAthan the stock collar ...

please remember, these are just my personal 2 Cents .... thanks for reading!( ... )
regards,
Sven

Hey again Sven,

Mate, I didn't use the word "perfect" anywhere within my post. If you want as close to perfect as you can:
1. Don't buy a cheap coaxial and
2. buy Skytec upgrade parts (mostly) with a few 'spatterings' of Xtreme - just as you suggest
I think I answered Nick's question fairly well. Maybe I will edit it and type in "Just my Opinon" - but at a later date - so you can re-read my original post to search for a "perfect" and not think that I edited it in.....

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Please don't take any offence at the above comments - none was intended[sm=49_49.gif]

Hi Sven,

In any upgrade there is a cost. But it should not be so much, so to end up with double the money (or even many times more) than the stock helicopter.
If it needs so much upgrades to be good then it is no good (as stock) and so you must not buy it in the first place.

But a Lama2 V3, a Lama V4 or Dauphin or Co-Comance is a good helicopter that flies good out of the box.
In addition it is a cheap helicopter with cheap spare parts also.
Which means anyone can have one.
And have no worry if it`s crashed or something, as its spare parts cost so little.

Now if we add this cost (of all your ideal upgrades) to the cost of a V4 then we have an indoors heli that it is not affordable.
Add some batteries, accessories and spare parts you will use and we have an expensive hobby that only a few could afford.

If we add also an xtreme tail boom kit and a brushless conversion then it becomes a heli that has left behind the meaning of an inexpensive one for good.
And only very few could afford it.

So my advice (to Nick) would be to stick in stock, put some inexpensive upgrades as for the looks and to have the feeling you`ve "improved" it or you have a better heli than the stock (or the neighbor) and keep a low profile in your upgrading plans.

The xtreme tail boom kit is nice as it can help also to have some outdoors use, and looks very nice also. If I had a V4 (frame) then I would like to have the kit installed, for sure.
But it is too expensive in comparison to the price range of this helicopter.
It costs about the 3/4 of the price of the helicopter.

PS. Out of the small lama I would have gone for a V3, as it`s the one that costs less to maintain, the lightest (for what it means for the motors) and maybe I would put a flexible tail.
Although it`s ugly (at least for me) the V3 I think it`s the ideal indoors heli. But then again someone else has other priorities and other preference.

Spiros

Hi there,
1) Is an extended inner shaft a good upgrade? My Comanche flybar keeps hitting the upper blades and damaging it all the time. To use the extended shaft I need to have a metal upper head, right? Could someone provide a picture of it?
2) As to the xtreme blades, how stronger than the original ones are they, pls? They are 5 times more expensive than the stock blades here in my region and I just want to be sure it is worth the price.
Thanks.

Hey again RTG,

1. [link=http://www.rchelicoptershop.com/catalog/lp0002-turbo-shaft-for-lama-dauphin-comanche-p-342.html?osCsid=06570c9r4dvnt3tt00c4js14f3]Turbo shaft[/link]= metal upper head + extended shaft Check out the videos within link also.....

2. Extreme blades are at least 10 times hardier - well worth it!

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

hey pgroom,
my problem is that the flybar hits the upper blades and damage it (i think).
the extension in this shaft (the link u provided) is between the upper and lower blades.
do upper blades hit the lower blades during the flight?
regards!
ps. how long is your flight with your esky coaxials when u use a fully charged battery?

it is not possible that the flybar hits the upper blades ... the flybar can hit the lower blades (flybar strike) or the upper blades hit the lower blades (blade strike). But as the flybar preceeds the upper blades, it can't hit them - except maybe in a crash ...

Sven

Hey again RTG,

As Sven says, the flybar rotates in the same plane and direction as the upper blades and it is very difficult to damage the flybar with the upper set - more likely the lower set - thus the Turbo shaft link......
Different lipos that I have give different flight times - between 5 minutes and 9½ minutes - so I also set a cheap digital kitchen timer (with countdown function) that I bought at my local "$2 shop" for 6 minutes and land when it beeps just to be sure[sm=wink_smile.gif] Then I change lipos and pile up the spent ones until after I have flown (to allow them to cool) before charging them (4 at a time 'cause I have 4 chargers). The oldest 7.4V 900mAh lipo to suit a small coax has successfully achieved 95 cycles using this method - and still going strong!

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

Hey master Pgroom,
I found out that many of my current problems with my comanche is due to depleted batteries.
When they are low in charge, the 4in1 sometimes restarts and it causes the loss of signal.
Another thing that may be causing the 4in1 to restart is it getting too hot during the flight. Comanche canopy has no ventilation window - unlike dauphin - and I wonder if it's an already known problem with the comanche.
Thanks.

Hey again RTG,

Please call me "Peter"
Yeah mate. I did read a post of yours when you typed that - sounds possible (and a cheap easy solution) but loss of signal is usually related to the Tx (or Tx batteries) rather than the lipos. Let me explain. As far as I am aware, the 4in1 takes the amps that it needs to function (from your lipo), and any excess are available to your motors.
The heat dissipation idea sounds more likely - you can never get enough cooling for both motors and electronics! [sm=idea.gif]You could always cut out ventilation windows in appropriate places and super-glue in a small piece of fly screen. I did this in the green L4 canopy pictured above. Just an idea - as I DON'T OWN any commanches. Did you PM "Wheelnut" - he'll be able to help better.

I use five lipos per flight session - but that is just me. You need to have at least three (better ordered from different sources)

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]