........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

since the belt-cp posts are coming up more. i think it will be better & easier for newbie/experienced people to try keeping belt-cp talk in one thread instead of all over the place. like this we can get more people interested in this awesome but "underrated" little heli.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Tips:

1. There is no such thing as ready to fly out of the box!

2. Check every screw and bolt on the machine for tightness when you get it

3. If you’ve never flown, find someone who has to help. If you can’t find someone, your SOL and don’t you dare fly around people or populated areas!

4. Make trainer gear, or get a second job to pay for all the parts you will need.

5. Read the directions that came with your radio so you understand what all the buttons and switches do.

6. Learn about your batteries and their care. You can easily ruin them if you don’t understand how they function. (charging and discharging).

7. While setting up the helo, (servos) disconnect the motor. Take it from me, rotors hurt when they hit you. I have the scares to prove it.

8. Ensure all the servos move smoothly and do not bind. To be safe with so-called ARFs, take off all the servo horns before you power up the helo. If they are not centered they can strip or burn out on power up from binding.

9. Center trims on radio and check that swashplate and paddles are absolutely level to each other. Make sure tail rotors are neutral and have 0 degrees pitch for Heading hold gyros. For rate gyros or heading lock you can set the pitch slightly to the right to compensate for torque during throttle up. When in doubt, READ THE DIRECTIONS THAT CAME WITH THE GYRO.

10. On the first flight, check the rudder and make sure the gyro holds the tail without wagging and the trim is straight. A helo with a tail that does not behave will not fly. Don’t try anything else until the rudder is right.

11. When learning to hover, keep the tail pointed at you and think like you are in the cockpit. IE: Left rudder stick is left nose in the helicopter, not left tail.

12. When you get into trouble, and you will, think ROTORS LEVEL. If your going to crash, that is best position to be in.

13. All crashes require a witness!




I have been pleased with my helo to date other than the occasional glitching that I had in the beginning. Cheap receiver and transmitter set-up is causing that I'm sure. Installing a Berg 7P today to hopefully rid me of this.

I'm no "finless" with regards to helos but I am a basic pilot with about 15 years of Nitro planes and 2 years of Helos to help in coping with the frustration of flying RC aircraft. Before you attempt setup, be sure your motor is unplugged and the rudder servo is unplugged. HH gyros can eat servos (I'll explain later)

1st: Helos in this size, or any size for that matter, require CONSTANT input on the sticks. In a perfectly calm condition you may be able to get "hands off" for a few seconds. Grab a mirror and marble, and hold the mirror with the marble on the glass and try to keep the marble in the center. That's the type of concentration and constant input it takes to hover, say in a 12 inch space of air. Where you are at now, I would get or make a set of trainer gear which when used properly, will let you hover and have some rough touchdowns without breaking things. I'll have you know, I used a set of "un-cool" trainer gear for 3 months before I took them off on a dragonfly #4. I only crashed once with them on.

Normal mode: Sorry no 3D experience

2nd: If this is your first Helo (rotor on top and rotor on the tail) not coax, then the mechanical set-up is critical to a decent flying (or shall we say for now) hovering machine. Luckily for me I had a chance to work on 3 Belts before mine came.

The first thing I would start with is the servos and their linkages to the swash plate. The servo arms should be as close to 90 Degrees as possible. Next, I removed the ball link from the swash and from the servo on both sides and made sure that Bell crank (servo to swash) was both snug(screw) and smooth. You can't check it hooked up. Every ARF I have seen was loose. Tighten them down and be sure they do not bind and every 10 flights or so check them. Do the same with the elevator servo. Once checked, re-attach arms to the swash. Turn on the radio and then the helo and be sure the trims are centered. Check your Swash plate and ensure it is level front to back and side to side and even at the 8 and 2 o'clock etc.

Next check the washout assy. Those screws are usually loose and can cause the "wandering fly bar" which will make "helo all over the place" even worse, much worse. I use finger tips on my screw drivers and snug them that way. If you're gripping hard, it is too much force. You can even disconnect the upper and lower linkages to check for binding.

Next I check my main blade, pitch linkages. They also have a screw that is usually loose. Snug it down. Next just go ahead and snug down every other screw you can find, from the swash to the top of the head. Check under the swash as well. They hold the swash bearing in. Even the ball links check them as well.

Next I check the fly-bar. I cycle the right stick around and get the servos moving and make sure nothing drags. Once done you can turn off the helo/radio. It's much easier if you have a block to place under the swash plate to keep it flat while you adjust the fly bar. I usually look at it from the side and check that the fly bar paddle is level with the swash plate. If the swash is not level this check can't be done right. You can check by turning the rotor gently and looking at the angle of attack. It needs to be zero all around. Also check the fly bar links and ensure they are level with the centerline of the paddle. I just look down the fly bar trailing edge and line it up with the "molded" centerline in the link. I next grab the paddles, leading edge and trailing edge, with my finger tips and gently try and twist them. They should resist. You can get them to give but we are talking a light twist and they should stay level. If you want your helo to handle better for learning, get a shorter flybar, an extra set of flybar weights and some smooth leading edge paddles that Align carries. Plastic or carbon, doesn't matter as long as the leading edge is more rounded than the Belt's. Align makes from 190MM(recommended) 200MM and a 220MM(Stock Belt CP) flybars. Aligns are slightly thicker steel so you need to drill out the flybar case. A #44 bit works well or any bit in between a 1/16 and 1/8. The extra weights slow doen the cyclic even more to it is less sensitive. Trust me, you want a slow cyclic in the beginning. You can always crank it up when your ready.

You can set the main blade pitch by eye, but I picked up and inexpensive pitch gauge. -1 degrees at zero throttle and 7-10 Degrees at the top.

Mechanically your head should be set-up. It will, most likely, need to be trimmed slightly right aileron to compensate for the tail rotor blowing right in a hover.

With the heading hold gyro, just follow the G90 instructions. I'm not sure if your Esky gyro, extra lead, can remotely control the gain from the 5th channel or just switches it back and forth from rate to heading hold. The Esky HH's I have seen respond well at about 60-80% gain on the adjustment. You really need a good hover to test the gain. The quick way is too get it into a hover, if it wags back and forth, too much gain. If it doesn't, hover and move the rudder/helo 45 degrees. When it stops, it shouldn't wag. If it does back it down some more, a little at a time. A real test is to hover and hit the throttle 30% more than hover and it shouldn't wag under load. Just do the hover check for now.

Eating the servo: HH gyros "creep" when armed. It can be made to stay centered with sub trim but also be sure the gyro has had time to compensate for the temperature. IE A/C to hot outdoors. The instructions explain all of this. The Belt's rudder, servo arm is too long and needs to be changed with one that is shorter. At full deflection it binds which will eat a servo over time. If you leave the stock arm on when the servo creeps to one side it will bind and eat the servo by overheating the servo motor. I have seen them melt the case. This is why when servicing the head or anything else with the radio on, it is best to disconnect the rudder servo with a HH gyro.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Thank you for all that info. Its going to help me out when i get mine in a day or two.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

I second that : |

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

I have purchased a Belt CP RTF, so it has all Esky equipment. The ESC came set-up with the brake activated. I don’t know if this is a good idea or not, should I deactivate the brake?

The ESC has a very hard start-up, and as far as I can see there is no option to soften it. I am thinking that deactivating the ratchet function on the throttle stick may help the start up characteristic?

Any ideas on this would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Hey all.

I'm glad someone started this thread. We have BeltCP parts in stock and more on the way. Also, Anyone interested in a BeltCP, Airframe Only, Fully Assembled for $89 + shipping?

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

A lot of good info for us all but a nother thing is the servo from esky are junk and so is the tx it is so bad that i think you would have more control with wires hock to the heli so for the first time flyer it would be good to get a good radio and some good servo for the belt cp it will give you a lot more control and a lot less crashing. I am a newbie in the heli sport but in the RTF model the tx is bad [:'(] how can they send somthing like that and exspected you to learn.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

The BeltCP is a good bird, but justlift has a point. The stock TX/RX leave somethings to be desired. But at that price point, what can you expect?

Thats why i only (mostly) sell just the complete, already assembled airframe. I have sold and will sell (upon request) full RTF birds, but for the most part I find people that have their own radio gear but want a BeltCP.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

I wouldn't say they are Junk. They have been working fine for me since April with no issues. Can they survive a crash? No, they are delicate but do FLY well and they are quick enough for basic sport flying with mild aerobatics. Servos are designed to move control surfaces and linkages not survive a crash. The whole goal is not to crash and if you crash regularly, you NEED to practice with trainer gear or get more time on a sim. I fly with a basic Blade CPP radio so the radio will not make your helo fly better. If it is not handling right then it needs to be adjusted correctly. I have worked with CP helos for a bit and especially Belts. When something is wrong with the helo it is usually a mechanical set up issue. Sometimes, Receiver issues if they are set up wrong with antennas not clear of the ESC etc.. Bone stock with the rate gyro fly just fine. If you can't fly it that way, don't blame the Helo. Just go back to the setup and practice, practice, practice.

Program ESky ESC:My interpretation of the ESC manual:

1. 25A continuous current
2. 50A peak current
3. Low Voltage Cutoff - 9.2VDC - Power cut to 20 percent of signal so it should be noticable.
4. Programmable

No brake = beep beep beep when power is first applied.

Brake = beepbeep beepbeep beepbeep when power is first applied.

5. Programming sequence
Turn power off
Throttle to full power
Trun power on
Throttle to zero power before audible beeps expire
Turn power off
Turn power on and setting (audible beeps) should match new desired setting

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

[link=http://www.china-magic3.com/picture.php?cat=58&image_id=505]http://www.china-magic3.com/gallerie...eltCP-Side.jpg[/link]
- change the gyro to the head lock gyro. It will fly better

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

I have yet to experience any problems with the electronics that came with the belt cp, but I have yet to really crash it (only scraped the blades) I also use the gyro that came with it and once setup properly theres really not any issues with it, especially with a 29.99 dollar price tag I LIKE IT!!

I use a Futaba 9chps radio and Align 6x receiver with no glitches thus far

This is really the first 450 I've flown since I learned to hover and training gear wasn't really required

Here's the setup I'm running

E-sky belt cp plastic edition
E-sky 3800kv motor
E-sky 25a brushless esc with brake disabled
E-sky non heading hold gyro with hitec HS-56 carbonite
E-sky 8g servo's on cyclic
Mega power 11.1v 20c 2100mah and Xtreme power 11.1v 20c 1700mah
Futaba 9chps with align 6x

Mods made before maiden :
Esky aluminum swashplate
re-threadlocked all head screws
lubed and softened the belt because it was FREAKIN STIFF!
dremeled and fixed an E clip to the the brushless motor, (that thing slides off wayyy to easky, lol I mean easy)

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

chris, those are definitely good tips. i was looking everywhere for the esc instructions manual but could not find them anywher, thanks.

for some reason i haven't had much luck with the esky esc it's been somewhat acting up.

anyway here are some pics of my heli with some rex parts. but to use some of these parts you need to modify a little bit (dremel time). the horizontal fin needs to be cut a little at the screw holes but the vertical fits perfect, tail fins are tight so you are going to have to sand them a little, the main rotor blades needs washers, paddles can screw directly onto the flybar but needs threadlock, landing gear also has to be adjusted to fit. i also found the hs65 servos are not easily placed you are going to have to do some frame trimming to some of them. right now i am not using the heli waiting for some parts. so far i got ; cf boom, telebee hh gyro, mp 2200, rex canopy, fs8 co-pilot and copter x esc & bl. im still using stock tx but soon will be up grading the tx and swash.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Nice clean looking build, I like the canopy it really takes away from the ugly bulkyness from the stock version out of the box.

As for your new gyro, have you used the telebee before? I've always known to have it standing upright with the label facing the tail like so (see pic) If it works the way you have it that would be very interesting.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

no, i havent used the gyro yet. yeah i do see everybody place them up-right but, i did'nt see anything on the manual saying the gyro needs to be up-right ( i guess soon i'll find out) hopefully it'll work. i just finished putting in the copter x bl & esc which looks much better then stock and fits good. all i need to fly again is the dual con-crystal and i'll be up&away.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Hello,
I would like to know what parts # that would fit from the rex? I would like to know cause my LHS has parts for the rex.
I know there another thread somewhere

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Actually, i put mine upright because of the picture on the first page of the manual. It clearly shows the tape being applied to the side that is right under the gain dial and led.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

I put my EFlite G90(same one) upright as well. I have a digital version of the directions if you need them. As for Rex parts, many fit but every one that I used had to be modded slightly.

Currently using:
TRex SA tail blades(root tip sanded to fit)
Trex 200MM flybar with align carbon paddles(drill out flybar case a tad)
Canopy
3550 motor(if you want the heat sink, you need to dremel to fit)
Head dampners (stiffer for the feathering shaft)

Have tried Main blades but they need 2 1mm spacers to fit grips

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

You can check the whether the gyro is in the right orientation by powering up (with motor power detached). Just plug in the battery and move the tail side to side, you should see the gyro try to compensate by moving the tail servo. If the gyro doesn't respond when you move the tail side to side then try tilting the heli left and right, if that works then you have the gryo installed wrong. Basically you need to find out which axis the gyro responds to.

If you remember geometry and looking at the heli from the front the z axis is up and down (through the main shaft), the y axis goes left to right and the x axis is parallel with the tail. Gyros are meant to counter rotation around the z axis along the x-y plane, if your gyro is installed wrong then it is countering rotation around the x axis along the z-y plane. Hope that's not too confusing.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Hi Allan, to answer your question about the REX parts on the belt cp here's a link to where we are talking about that very same discussion http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_63...tm.htm#6401062

Here's a list of all the things I've tested on belt cp with success

HDX 315mm FRP Carbon Fiber Main Blade
1.5mm G10 Black Fiber Vertical/Horizontal Fins (horizontal fines need new hole drilled)
T-REX 315mm Wooden Main Blade (shaved down blade grip area)
T-REX All Metal Rotor Head Set V2 (fits but the mixing seems strange, haven't tested in flight)
T-REX XL Canopy and fibre glass canopy (these make it look way better)
Align tail rotor blades HS1208 (tail very whippy, almost too responsive)
Align 9g servo's (fit and have more torque but I'm happy with my esky's)
T-REX bump resistant landing skids (needs new holes drilled)

cheers;)

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Hey guys check this out, I was just talking about the comparisons of eflite to esky helicopters in another heli forum and sure enough today pop's up a belt cp imitation from eflite!![X(]

Although there are subtle differences the frame looks awefully familiar and the head is more derived from t-rex than belt cp. even the servo placement is the same location, the motor mount slides back and forth as opposed to the motor, motor is 3800kv outrunner and coincidence the boom is slightly longer than your average heli?! Whether or not it's a redesigned clone it seems to worth a look. Comes with a spektrum DX6i radio and brushless combo, as well as eflite clone gyro of telebee.

Perhaps some of these parts will be compatible with belt cp in the long run. I'm not a fan of eflite but it's still interesting to see something like this

If that canopy fit the belt cp and was repainted it would look SWEEEET!

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

thats the new blade 400 i think it comes out next month..it does look like the belt cp and hopefully it'll be compatible with the belt since e-flite makes a ton of up grades for their heli's. it is a nice looking canopy..me like.

druss, thanks for the info i just went through the bob white set-up to get it working and the gyro is best upright.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

how often does anyone lube the spindle shaft (or that shat th blades attach to) I have over 7 flights on it a getting ready to go threw it making sure every things tight.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Have not lubed mine yet, only 3 flights. of course i had to replace the spindle shaft (yup thats the name, or feathering shaft) after test flight #1. But now with new gyro (lgt 2100t) the tail is not wagging all over the place (without input from pilot).

Not sure that the beltcp spindle has any metal to metal contact. Have to look up the exploded parts diagram. I might think that some dry graphite lube would be well placed there.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Hi am a newbi to helis got a fair bit of practice in on the xtr sim and have a fixed pitch that i can hover fairly ,well want to step up to collective pitch as a few of me mates started there and all seem to say its the way to go, been reading loads of threads on the hb king 2, and as much as i can find on the belt cp, are there any of you on this thread that also have a king to compair it with, what im asking is apart from the size differences and a few others are the flying charactistics of both helis fairly simlar, i am drifting towards the belt cp myself as certain build differences look better on it than the king ,and over here in the uk there seems to be a big t-rex following so parts will probably be easier to obtain aswell . another quick question does anyone have a link to the bob white site as ive seen a couple of set up vids and want to find out as much as poss on the setup side of things as i can ,thanks guys

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

DAMN IM MAD, THIS HELI IS JUST TAKING ME TO THE POINT OF THROWING IT OFF A BRIDGE!!! I JUST TURNNED IT ON TO FLY (NEW ESC & MOTOR), STARTED PICKING UP HEAD SPEED AND WHAT HAPPENS, I START SELLING SOMETHING BURNING. WHAT IS IT, THE NEW ESC AND MOTOR NOW IM THINKING OF SMASHING THE DAMN HELI. I NEED SOME HELP WITH THIS. IM NEW TO THE " WORLD OF HELIS" BUT I'VE BEEN RUNNING RC CARS FOR MANY YEARS AND NEVER HAD PROBLEMS LIKE THIS BEFORE. THIS IS THE SECOND (COPTER X)ESC NOW CAUSE THE FIRST ONE (E-SKY) ALSO CRAPPED OUT. MAYBE IT CAN BE THE RX CAUSING THIS? DONT KNOW...HELP...[:@]

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Did you do a run up test before you installed it? Maybe the tx throttle channel is reversed and when the stick is down, it thinks its full throttle?. Is there serious binding in the drive line? Maybe the motor is trying to spin the wrong direction, causing it to stall?

You may try a fuse from the battery to the esc. That way, the fuse blows before the esc?

I'm real happy with my beltCP. I find it even more stable than the TREX XL CDE that i had. Maybe might flying skills have gotten better, but this thing is solid as a rock. 2second hover with hands free. I know its not much, but its more than i have ever gotten on any cp bird.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

I did all the proper set up's like;motor break in, good mesh, wire connections & etc. So, rigth now I dont know why or what the deal is and I cant spend another $40 on a ESC and maybe motor too. I guess im gonna sit at the side-lines for now until I purchase a new one or get a returned ESC (which I doubt).

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Hi gadgetkeith, we were talking about this very topic in another post found here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6378073/tm.htm

I'll repost what I've experienced

There's tons of good arguements towards Either. As an owner of both helicopter I can say from a newcomers point of view it would be very hard to pick one over the other.

In my experience from working with, and modifying both, here is what I've noted as I'm sure other's will as well....

Honey bee king 2
- Very light and stable for it's weight, but doesnt take abuse from the wind
- can be flown indoors as it's soo small
- batteries and other electronics can be less money as it requires less power
- has several hop up parts from esky
- doesn't need a complex expensive radio to fly good because of it's simplified servo and head location.

Belt Cp
- Flies better that King 2 in heavier winds
- Shouldn't really be flown indoors unless in a gymnasium or large space
- Replacement parts are some of the most inexpensive for it's class
- Needs a good radio like futaba 7chp or spektrum dx7 because the sevo and head links are soo complex (good to have sub trim and delay)
- More stable when attempting 3d than king 2
- takes a crash easier than King 2, certainly stronger and more durable in part because of it's size
- Has tons of hop up parts from Esky, and BONUS is compatible with most all align and HDX parts (HUGE PLUS)


Overall I find both helicopters are a great design and good quality. It all breaks down to what the user wants.
If you want to just get a taste of Radio Control heli's and not fork out the cash I'd go with the King 2. Good for flying indoors and light winds with moderate 3d. Not much maintenance.
If you want to and are thinking about becoming hardcore in the future, want to do stunts and big tricks want to or already have a good radio I'd go for the belt cp. It's the cheapest in it's class for a 450 sized heli. Good for flying anywhere and can take a more aggresive flight routine.

Both are a small investment money wise no matter how far you want to get into heli's and be it whichever you choose, you should have good results in the end.

Cheers

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

What exactly smoked? The motor FETS or the BEC. If it is the motor FETs, the only thing I have seen cause that is a short in the motor winding or between the wires. My ESC and motor both went when my ARF arrived after 10 flights. The motor started jittering and eventually overheated the ESC and turns out the motor mount screws were too long and were touching the inner coils in the motor and wore through the insulation, shorting them. If the BEC smoked, you have a bad servo or bad servo connections. On these Belts, the servo arm on the rudder is too long and if you use a HH gyro and let the rudder creep, it will bind and can smoke a BEC from the excess current. I use a different arm which even in full creep the servo does not bind. A binding servo will eat itself and the BEC if it is not a good one. I have seen servos melt their own cases before because the user forgot to unhook his rudder servo during set-up of his swashplate and pitch.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

3kgt, for diagnosis we need to know when it's smoking and go over a checklist.

first thing

1. you are getting headspeed so obviously it is spooling up but are you getting in the air before it starts smoking?
2. what is the C rating on your batteries?
3. what pinion are you running on your motor? and I assume because it's copterX this is the align clone motor with 3550kv?
4. Have you checked to make sure the head is running clockwise when you set it up?

If it is the align copterX clone motor I know it likes to have a 30A esc or higher, I'm not sure what speed control is provided with it. If it's the motor smoking it could be a matter of very high gearing putting too much stress and high RPM's.

Meanwhile with the other posts, I too have yet to experience any problems still. I did lube the tail belt early on because it was so stiff upon purchase. The spindle and main shaft haven't needed any attention, the only thing I've found recently is the blade grips found they're way a little loose and when I tighten them it's a lot stiffer for the servo's to change the pitch. I had a good flight today finally getting everything trimmed out where I like it. I ran a 1700mah 11.1v 20c battery and it lasted a whopping 14 minutes. The battery was 41*C after flight in 7*C weather.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Meanwhile with the other posts, I too have yet to experience any problems still. I did lube the tail belt early on because it was so stiff upon purchase. The spindle and main shaft haven't needed any attention, the only thing I've found recently is the blade grips found they're way a little loose and when I tighten them it's a lot stiffer for the servo's to change the pitch. I had a good flight today finally getting everything trimmed out where I like it. I ran a 1700mah 11.1v 20c battery and it lasted a whopping 14 minutes. The battery was 41*C after flight in 7*C weather.
[/quote]

Careful with the grips, you don't want them tight. They should move smoothly as to not bind the collective servos which will put more strain on your BEC.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

The bec and esc aren't warm to the touch after flight, I used the rubber o-rings that come with t-rex because they are thicker and bigger. The grips seem to have less slop and more acurate movement for pitch.

Is anyone else using this gyro still that came with the stock heli? I have used pretty much every single position on the gain pot and moved the servo on the boom but I still find no matter what the setting it has quite a large creep to the right. I know it's non heading hold and only 29 bucks..... but I thought if there's any way to get better results why not ask.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

hello to all, i´m about to get a esky belt cp, but i got a little bit confuse, i´m not an expert, i´m just a newby. i start with a walkera 22e, took me some time to understand and tune it with the help of the menbers that post the walkera22 let´s talk, but now i can hoover, make it fly around me. so,some one said the electronic in this heli is not good, well they say the same thing about walkera´s, the ESC doesnt have a program card, should i get a better one?, the gyro shlod be replaced too is that right? are the ESKY electronic so bad as the walkera?i realy need to know. i konow that RTF in japonese mean´s the rotor spins :D, and i have to re-check everything, but is it or not a nice heli?

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

You can hoover? Vaccumes can't fly. lol :) But no the question pertaining to the quality is nothing like walkera. E-sky and walkera are in completely different catagories when it comes to quality. Every walkera heli i've seen or worked on has had problems or poor quality parts. I have owned 3 esky's with the stock electronics and have yet needed to replace the parts for any of them.

Some people would say you need to upgrade the speed control and gyro, but if you are a newb the stock electronics are more than enough to meet the demands, as you go along and break things here and there.... then I would upgrade instead of buying the same stock parts. The only thing I would upgrade right off the batt is the motor and esc if you are using the non brushless but the benefit of buying the belt cp ready to fly is it "DOES" come with brushless, lipo and BL speed control.

The belt cp is a great way to start out if your fixed for cash and cant buy a dragonus or t-rex.

Cheers

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

The motor smoked and all of the soder from the ESC all melted and joined together so it's definitly toasted but the motor may still be working. The sad part is today I received the crystal for the FS8 rx and now I need to wait and get a new ESC and maybe motor. When I decide to get a new ESC, I dont know if I should get another low end BL & ESC or just get a ALIGN set up. Unfortunately, I wont be repairing or replacing anything else soon so im just gonna sit back and absorb heli knowledge.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Crashinbash... I have read lots of complaints about Walkera products.. many from people who never owned them, as well as owners. I also read a bunch of complaints about Esky products.. I own 3 Walkera 22E's.. None of them has needed anything replaced that wasn't the result of a crash. I have 3 Esky HBK's. I had one servo go bad without crashing.. I think both companies build products that are good and bad. I love my HBK's.. I hate the cheapo motors Esky put's in them. Walkera seems to have a lot of problems with their PCM line of transmitters, but my experience with their FM stuff is they work great. Bottom line: I think there are lemons made in all products. All products have strong points and weak points, especially when it comes to R/C helis in the sub $200 range.. they are all a far cry from being perfect.. I think I got my money's worth in both the Walkera 22E's and the HBKs.. As for preference.. I like my HBK's better than my Walkera 22E's.. The 22E can't take the crash damage a HBK can take... Cheers

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

True to that, I've had lemons like cp2 with poor instructions and impossible setups to great experience with the belt cp. I just find that at least E-sky makes a valid attempt to put out a sub-english instruction book with they're product, and use good strong platics and nylon in kits. I can't say walkera is garbage because they do fly and when setup correctly with good aluminum hop ups they fly even better. There must be something to walkera heli's... enough that a company like Venom would want to brand clones of they're product with the company logo on it. In just the same respect I've now seen recently Exceed RC is selling E-sky heli's simply relabeled with they're logo.

The only major issue that leaves walkera behind the rest is quality control. Too many times in a forum you hear someone stating this or that didn't come with the kit, peices broken or on the verge of breaking on first flight. They are only now starting to make respectible designs of heli's that will produce good results. They seem to make one new design for every month in a year totaling more than 12 different heli's. E-sky is just now only working on they're 8th heli design in the last 10 years.

Cheers

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

True enough.. Walkera seems to attempt to put out too many different helis.. I still find it amazing that you can buy a RTF heli for $150 delivered to your door. (Walkera 22E $120 delivered-- HBK $150 delivered) My first digital system was a used 6 channel system that cost me $250.. and that was a deal.. Mind you, that was when you could order a new car from the factory for $3600. ( my dad ordered a new car the year before I bought the used radio(something called EK Logitrol)) $250 was a crap load of money... I mowed a lot of lawns and delivered a lot of newspapers to get that money... Companys find ways to cut costs. Unfortunately they sometimes cut the QA too much. .. It all adds up to a good reason to buy from someone in your same country who will stand behind the product rather than have a heli shipped in from China where shipping costs about the same as the product.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

When you do, just stick with the ESky 3800 motor and maybe a 30A Dynam ESC from HD. It's run you about $55 for both or for $40 on EHirobo there is an ELF setup with motor and ESC. Can't vouch for them though. I can vouch for the ESky, as I have been running that set-up for months. The motor is more than likely dead, as it sounds like it was internally shorted and ate your ESC. Did you check the motor mount screws? I have know of at least 7 Helos of different manufacturers have this issue with screws that were just too long and touched the coils and shorted them to ground. ESCs don't like when you do that.

RE: ........."BELT-CP THREAD"........
 

Crash, I had the exact same problem with my king2, no matter what I did the tail would keep wanting to turn right. I replaced the stock gyro with a telebee tlb01 dual rate, HH gyro and the problem disappears. I've got a used gy401 sitting around that I think I'm going to test with a digital micro servo and see how well this tail can really hold.