AMB

Was checking my Fox 50 today and noticed one of the 6 hold hex 4-40 had stripped out in the cylinder, they are pretty short so took a 4-40 tap
dremeled off half the pilot and retapped DEEPER all 6 then went to 4-40 x 3/4 length to play it safe all nice and snug. fired up and perfect
this engine has a lot cf compression for a ringed engine on hand flipping it wears a Davis head martin

123Cat

I cant imagine a 50 size diesel , I think a 15 is big,

even an 09 messes up my finger, by the way how do you tell if your Silver Swallow is worn out ?, it tunes fine its just so hard to start on fresh fuel ?

AMB

123 cat hard to start on fresh fuel?? just a guess overprimed when you say fresh if you make your own do you have enough ether in it at least
25% 30% better if compression seems the same as in the past not worn out, SAVE YOUR FINGERS FROM PAIN USE A CHICKEN STICK cheers
martin -also on 50 size lots of Irvine 53 MRK llls out there as conversions chicken chicken sticks a must on these

Recycled Flyer

Hey CAT (an anangram of the A.C.T. by any chance?) - they do garner respect don't they!

Its well known that a 0.15cu diesel is the optimum size for a cast iron/steel liner, but with modern alloy engines it seems that there is no real limit.

Most diesels should hold compression with a wet cylinder without bubbles streaming past any seal and barring that test you should feel a snap as you flick a diesel that has good compression, but I am sure that some other ringed engines would argue with that!

Martin, sounds like a logical move with more thread purchase - especially with a diesel.

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

I never use a chicken stick ... just a rubber finger protector. Lately I have been buying MP Jet ones .... David Owen sells them.

They last a year or two and then they are so cut up they need to be replaced.

Chicken sticks are not conducive to the "diesel flick" in my experience. But that may be just me.

earlwb

Interesting on the head screws. Glad it was a easy fix though.

Fiery, yeah trying to develop a diesel flick with a chicken stick is harder to do. But with all the razor sharp plastic props, you just can't hand flip a engine anymore. You have to use leather gloves, a finger cover, a chicken stick or a electric starter.

123CAT, here is my venerable Fox .45 diesel conversion, sporting a 12x8 Master Airscrew Prop:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTp3Lkr9pSw[/youtube]

AMB

Earl nice and smooth and clean runner looks like less exhaust than a glow engine martin

mike109

G'day fiery

I am still using a rubber Aeroflyte finger protector I bought back about 1975. Still works well. Interesting to hear about the ones from David Owen. I think I will get one for a spare. The protectors were really necessary with Bartels fibreglass props.

My MPJet 060 Classic has just had a big upgrade. I replaced the original one sided comp lever with one of the new delux "normal" double sided ones. The single sided one was a pain to use. The proper one should be much better.

Cheers

Mike in Oz (Dubbo, NSW)

earlwb

Thanks AMB, it turned out to be a really good runner as a diesel, plus it is cranking out almost as much power as mySaito .80 does with the same size prop. The RPMs are about the same for both engines. I am thinking about what I can run it in for a airplane.

On your Silver swallow, if it runs but is getting hard to start, then try adding more oil to the fuel, bump up the oil percentage in the fuel.
That usually gains some more time out of the engine.
Now you could make a new piston for it and fit it to the old cylinder. You can make a homemade hone to hone out the cylinder a little and make it more round and put in a bit of a taper towards the top. So you can get quite a few more hours out of it.

123Cat

Nice video Earl , so easy to start , I will try and make up some parts for the silver swallow, its all worn out and leaking bad

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

"I am still using a rubber Aeroflyte finger protector I bought back about 1975"


I'd say you have got your money's worth Mike! [&:]

Probably cost 25 cents back them!!!

My first engine test stand was a "taipan" red gum (I think) hardwood item .. bought for a few cents about the same era !!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

This Davis Jumbo Chicken Stick has started a lot of Diesels. I tried to remove the outer layer and turn it around but so far no success.

earlwb

I didn't know that "Kavan RC" still exists. But here in the USA they still sell the Kavan RC version of a finger guard for flipping props. The finger guard tends to be sliced up and destroyed fast if you use those razor sharp plastic props though. That was what destroyed mine when I used to use them. The long rubber rails or ribs on the bottom side of the pic is for the back of the finger for when the engine kicks back and the prop blade hits the back of the finger. The little bumps on the top part of the pic is actually the part that makes contact with the prop for flipping.
http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...056.html?E+Sig

AMB

Morning Dave better scars on the chicken stick than fingers I have a couple sticks one is plack tube covered the other a light colored plastic ''tube
You usally get nailed on the backfire for lack of a better term on the first few flips when the engine pops in the reverse direction
on restarts does not seem an issue to me and most of the time dispense with the stick martin
if the engine is lazy on start use the elctric starter but not too often martin\
If an APC or Master airscrew plastiic I always use the stick or starter

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

The MP Jet finger guard is an exact copy (or possibly the same item) as the black Kavan item shown above. A useful piece of kit that pays for itself every time I get "rapped across the knuckles" by a cranky beast. I always have one in my flight box.

AMB

FIERY well put Cranky beast, sometimes they do not like to wake up without a 'protest' just like a cat sometimes a purr and once in awhile
swipe with the paw , better the stick the recipent than the finger martin

dennis

My Feedback: (90)

I bought a dozen of these from SS Hobbies for the club and they are excellent value and long lasting .
As to hand starting I almost never use anything and I've started everything up to a 4500. I am also left handed which means that my hand is moving away from the prop and that is a big difference. You biggest problem is the urge to over prime. Once you conquer that it's a piece of cake. I also use an electric starter on ball bearing engines and never touch the compression lever. They sound awful when they start but as they warm up they smooth out and run as good as always. I did this with an Irvine 40 for 4 years and never touched the compression lever or the needle valve. It really does pay dividends in saving the seal in the head if you minimize it's movements.
Dennis

Recycled Flyer

A tip paraphrased for right handed starting all engines I learn't from Gig Eifflaender writings of PAW fame -

"Position your elbow to the right of the crankshaft when starting the engine - not directly in front of its centre line, this way your hand will arc out of the propellers plane all the sooner."

And always place your finger at the very hub of the prop, never along the sharp back of the blade and flick that part around only. This will give a far faster rotational speed than moving out anywhere towards the tip.

If you can not avoid this, as in when using a spinner, then place you finger on the top of its airfoil section using the higher pitch there as the pushing point - it feels odd at first but should provide more than enough grip if practiced with a bit.

But in the heat of the moment a recalcitrant diesel can cause even the best of us to forget the basics and reach for added protection!

AMB

Recycled flyer Being left handed I flip down and away prop set about 8 o clock for the flip a a smart flick of the wrist too, surprised I do not have
carpal syndrome done this for so many years martin
and Eiffleander s tip the closer to the hub the faster the flip think some forget this one

123Cat

Thats all Ive got recalcitrant Diesels !
My finger is getting better
I tried some heat on my 09 , made it worse , looser, may try a lap job

earlwb

I have a couple of Chinese Elfin .09's and neither one works, as the contra piston appears to be too loose in them.
I'll get around to trying to fix them one of these days.