Hey guys, I'm just about to remove an AP .061 glow motor from my little rat racer and replace it with a PAW80 for s@#ts and giggles.

I've now come to fitting the tank, well, acutally there in lies the problem. I don't have a diesel proof tank.

What would you suggest for a zero G tank, around 1 ounce?

Oh, and it can't be too big or too heavy!

What tank are you using for the AP, If a clunk type tank, just replace the silicon with Tygon. (Readily available at most mower dealers)

Otherwise just make up a tinplate tank & install that - again using tygon from the tank to the NVA

Regards

Greg

You'll need a diesel proof insert for the tank (1oz) and a neoprene clunk line. Tygon is a little too stiff to work for the clunk but is fine outside of the tank.

The AP was running on a film cannister tank. Not sure that it'll work with diseasel. Anyone tried?

I had the same problem, I found the ether goes right through plastic, this is what I found at The Christmas Tree Store. I is a .75oz sample bottle of Old Spice spray powder, it was 99¢. I have some aluminum soldier, I bought some 1/8" aluminum tubing and I'm going to make some tanks.

The little 35mm metal film canisters would work. There are still some Perfect metal fuel tanks around too. I have made fuel tanks using thin plywood before. I coat the wood inside and out with some epoxy to fuel proof it. Sometimes the fuel tank was the inside of the nose of the airplane too.

You can get a Sullivan gas engine conversion kit for their fuel tanks. It has a different neoprene rubber stopper and some typgon fuel tubing. But for 1/2a you need smaller tubing than what comes with the gas conversion kit. I think you can get the rubber stopper separately too.

Actually those are a pretty good find for those mini Old Spice spray cans. Looks very useable to me.

Soarrich I bet J and B weld would work to with a nice fillet around the front easier than solder martin

Would JB hold up to Diesel fuel?

yes (its epoxy) martin

I use shampoo bottles from hotels. One ounce
and strong. Drill two one eigth inch holes where
ever you want them and pull your tubing through
and put the lid back on. Couldn't be easier. Mine
last for years.
Ralph

Something like this (with a gas/diesel bung, and flexible neoprene pick up line) should be useful

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRU28&P=7

check out the hayes 1 0z tank too listed under other items of interest on the same as above martin

LXZCL2 is the number bung and line diesel ok

OR You could simply order the standard one ounce Hayes from tower here:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXZCL2&P=ML

and use it as is there is no need for changing the clunk line in addition you do not have that enormous bung plug. This uses the genuine hayes 'O' ring plug, far far better and of course the O ring is also a form of neoprene.

Here it is using the little diesel MP Jet in my 'Orange Thing'

John

JOHN .... very nice aircraft understand the MP jet 061D may be on the comeback trail martin

For those who think only a metal tank will do, here are some that are available.

http://brodak.com/fuel/fuel-tank.htm...=price&p=7

I was tempted to make a tin tank with an integral clunk, and I must still do that, but I happened to rifle through my partners bathroom crap (she keeps everything) and sure enough, a 20ml (1 oz is 28ml) bottle of shampoo came rolling out

As Greg has suggested above Diesel Fuel tanks are easy to make. Especially if you have some basic soldering skills.

Otherwise a decent lightweight and durable tank for Diesel Fuel can be easily fabricated from Glass Fibre cloth and a decent slow set epoxy. It turns out that
epoxy is highly resistant to the Kerosene.

The pic shows a Mike North control line diesel tank completely fabricated from 1.5 ounce cloth with slow set epoxy. The valve is for C/L racing.
It can be molded around a male plug liberality coated with PVA release or a bit of suitably shaped Styrofoam which can be
dissolved away with solvent after the epoxy has cured.



Others have successfully coated a bit of flat thin balsa with GF cloth or Alfoil on one side and then constructed the tank out of it with the cloth on the inside.


See: http://home.wxs.nl/~wakke007/balsatank/balsa1.htm

There are tutorials on the UK c/l Combat web sites.

Ray

Interesting idea Ray, but for ease and maintenance, I went with the old shampoo bottle. Having a screw on lid allows me to check the clunk and clean the tank.

I figure 20ml for a a PAW 80 will be equivalent to 30ml for an enya 09, which my buddy is running, it'll be interesting to see which one is faster.


Hopefully me