well guys mounted a 9x5 prop hand started right off on a few flips, this is a new engine front bearing sounds noisy no play but has rotational noise when flipping no rattles or grindng sounds tight no play, think it will go a way or is it bad? I pulled the prop driver used some WD 40 followed by some caster oil made no difference martin
think the the minie telemaster is jinxed martin

Sounds like a clearance issue there Martin.

If its too tight then no amount of running is going to make it looser and better as the wear on the balls won't be even.

Rats "":""> It has a nice bounce no drag ,I guess a call or E mail to Ken Enya in order for a new front bearing martin

I'd give it a few runs and see how it goes. Might be fine. I've got a couple of TBR engines with slightly noisy bearings that still run perfectly. If there's no significant drag or grinding noises then you mightn't have much of a problem.

Maybe give it a dose of acetone then ATF, just to make sure there's no gumming of the bearings?

I just called Ken Enya he said send it to him, he requested an E mail which I will do , asked him about the new one brass liner about $160US for the r/c giving this some thought
which would come back with the old one thus only one package tp send martin

Steve THX for the info, thats good news will do will see how it goes may not have to send it back . will run tomorrow and let her rip martin

So what happens after alerting Ken Enya (have you alerted him yet?) to a suspected issue you go ahead, run the engine and it turns into a known issue?

I know Ken is an easy going guy but you did say you were going to post it to him firstly and now your not - see my point?

But none of us are going to solve this over the net.

My limited experience with high speed ball races says that if the correct race is installed (I highly doubt the wrong one is) and it has no play whatsoever, feels and sounds tight, but spins freely then it is in crooked or clamped down too tight by the case.
A way to check if the race is in crooked is to take the crankshaft out, reverse it into the front of the engine and wiggle it in circles, the wiggle should be even in all angles, if not then the race needs to be refitted.

Worse case scenario, the race wears quickly and you get to pay for it, best case scenario - well Ken has already spelled that out for you.

Running it and hoping for the best does not sound like a good idea, to me.
Either send it back as it is now or take it appart to check what is wrong.

It could be that the rear ballbearing is not seated properly, that's an easy thing to fix with a little heat.

A sealed front bb will sometimes harbor castor if it is put up wet.
Warm it up and run it .I bet it will clean itself up.
Ralph

Its a ' new' engine with bad sounding bearing diagnosed by an experienced flier - why would anyone doubt his suspicions
There is no reason to think that past residue is causing the problem.

A new engine should have no issues that have to solved by the purchaser.<br type="_moz" />

Regrettably it's an imperfect world.

Martin, just take the backplate off, insert the sharp end of a decent Phillips head screwdriver down the shaft hole till it touches the other end.

Then while holding the engine in your hands get someone to whack the screwdriver handle hard with a decent hammer.

Test run and check any difference.

You'd be surprised who uses this technique.

I wouldn't use that technique on anything well made. Have a look inside the intake of a well made engine and you'll see where the screw driver ends up.
On some low performance engines, like Fox or ASP etc, it works fine since the hole goes well past the intake port, while on high performance engines there is, or should be, a slope at the intake window.

Ok all decided to take a chance and try a run zinger 9x4 9200-9400 , ran for about 30 minutes with a couple of shut offs and cool downs. The bearing noise is no more
might have been just some hardened oil on the bearing it was stored for a number of years engine has nice bounce on flipping free as a bird martin
the wood Zinger 9x5 only gave about 8200, interesting putting the digital fish scale on tail wheel gave us about 1.3 lbs of pull (thust in both)

Zinger props are rather inefficient with their thick profiles, it will probably do about 10000rpm on an 9x4 APC (that's what mine did if I remember correctly).
While these are very nice engines, a PAW 09 is actually stronger and makes about 10500rpm on the same prop...

Mr Cox yes the APC will do better the wood zingers are cut off"phone poles" will pick up a couple at least no bearing issues , of note zero play in crank martin

Glad it seems ok,Martin. The performance is about what I'd expect, as mine (also with very low run time) does about 10800 - 11000 with an 8x4. (On the same prop a new 11 Ultra managed about 12500.) As Mr Cox says, they're very nice engines, but performance isn't truly spectacular.

One other thing is that my SS25D Al-Chro initially underwhelmed me a bit, but continued to improve with more running and will happily pull a .35-size profile CL stunter through the pattern. Not what I would've expected with an AAC engine, but what do I know? Perhaps these little AAC 11s will be similar.

Steve forgot did a run with the 8x4 and got 10400 to 10600 that was a wood zinger too martin

An other stat weight is exactly 32 oz ( 2 lbs on my digital scale) with a 750 mil amp battery and 4 ox tank martin

thrust varied a bit 1,3 to 1.35 lbs hats the minnie telemaster the Enya is in

OK group just went on the Enya site, price is 13900 yen for the new CX11D that about $230 US dollars does not sound right tought about $160 martin

Unfortunately the value of the Japanese Yen keeps going up while the value of the US dollar keeps going down. It is hard to buy anything Japanese nowadays. Yeah Enya prices have a huge sticker shock margin to them.

You might try buying through one of the sellers who import and sell Enya products here in the USA. I tend to prefer going through Shtterman on Ebay for my Enya stuff as he can sell it for less than the full retail price that Enya has to sell it at. Shtterman orders Enya stuff quite often and your item could be included along with the other stuff to save on shipping costs. Now then he speciaizes in Control Line but he'll get in RC stuff too as people need it.

I make it about US$166 - I think you might be using the wrong exchange rate.

<div>
</div><div>Shttrman has this engine, one left at $144.00 US</div><div>
</div><div>ENYA. ULTRA 11CXDS STUNT DIESEL NIB CURRENT MODEL | eBay</div><div>
</div><div>Fredo</div>

Ok GUYS thx THATS MORE LIKE IT...................who is shtterman does he have a web site, e mail or phone contact??? martin

You can buy from his ebay shop above. He has carbs too if you want to have an RC version.

You can send him a PM via the Ebay store front he maintains.
I bought a bunch of Enya RC four stroke engine parts and stuff from him too. He had to order some stuff from Japan, but it didn't take too long.