nothinbetr2do

when you guys talk about using starting fluid for its ether john deer having the highest @ 80% . are you using a spray can kind or is there something different. im trying to find out all that i can thanks

SGC

The JD starting fluid is in a spray can ,
To get the ether out, first put the can in a freezer and let it chill right down(overnight)
Then take the can outside, invert it , I depress the nozzel by pushing the on the base of the can with the nozzel on concrete, let out all the propellent, I wrap the can in rag whilst doing this to reduce heat build up.
Then return the can to the freezer- the colder it is when you open it the less ether is lost.
Opening the can - some just punch holes in the base and let the ether trickle out, I use a can opener and cut the base of the can off, this is quick and the ether is easily poored out.
Store your ether in a DARK glass bottle, or a steel can, both of which must seal well as ether has a low evaporation temp ,-40degC i think. Ether also has a high vapour pressure so it tries to escape.
Store your ether container in the fridge, this reduces loss's.
Now suitable storage containers for ether canbe difficult to find, they MUST be SEALED.
I make mine from empty coffee tins, after thourily washing drying , I solder the lid on( mustbe a good clean joint, no pinholes.
I then use Brass Plumbing sockets soldered onto the lids as fillers. I use a 3/8BSP as filler /pooring spout and a 1/4BSP as a vent, use the same tapered threaded BSP plug as the stoppers. These tins are 100% sealed .
Another source of good cans is empty rifle powder tins - the ones with steel caps.
Stewart

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You can purchase diesel fuel for our model engines from Aerodyne, Davis, Dr. Diesel and Red Max. Tower Hobbies sells Davis Diesel fuel. I have used all four brands with no problems.

AMB

Good Lord --Stewart what a process-- Those of us here in the states do not know how lucky we are to get the pre-made factory stuff mainly Davis fuel here in alll various blends "keep twistin them tommy bars" I almost feel guilty when all I do is grab a gallon out of the closet after reading this, A diesel fan will go to any extreme to "keep um up and running" Martin

SGC

Martin,
I was easy here too up untill about 4 yrs ago when our last diesel fuel maker stopped , due to the high cost of a dangerouse goods transport licence. Although there are many diesl uses here we still are a minority compared to the glow guys( is one too).
So now we have to do the dance in order to get our fix.
Pssssssst wanna send over a couple gallons of errrrrrrrr orange juice or mineral water lol
Stewart

andrew b

Everyone on the forum thats having trouble getting diesel fuel makes me feel guilty too. n the UK we don't have a problem getting diesel from LHS thanks to a company called http://www.modeltechnics.com/. they also sell ether at £19.15 for 2.75L . I use a mix of 1/2 and 1/2 D1000 / D2000 with another 5% pharmo castor thrown in, this makes the mix approx 31% ether, 36% paraffin, 31% castor 2% IPN I call my mixture "D 1500+" [8D]

As for engines there is only 1 NATURAL choice....PAW .

Anyone know who "invented" the model diesel engine?

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The Swiss Dyno and Etha were available around 1938 and would fly model airplanes. I do not know who developed these ingines. Also I wonder if someone may have built one earlier for maybe a boat?

AMB

Andrew time to take a friendly poke at you guys across the pond again PAW??? my "fix" is irvine have 6 40 diesels and needing more
slapped diesel heads on my 2 irvine Q40s using a factory head on one and davis on the other, OK I admit it have 2 PAW model 55s
(033 I think) an 06, 19.29. and a 40, Tradition is nice but after 50yrs you folks should really update those carbs
and of course the best of all the irvine 53 conversions still shy a couple so on with diesel heads on the irvine 36 and 25, 15
wannna race ??? martin

Motorboy

It is too early.. The Dyno diesel came first time in 1942 and was invented by Klemenz-Schenk, Alfligen in Switzerland. Etha came later..

The first fuel for Dyno diesel engine was made of:

16% Ether
25% Turpentine
9% Lubricating oil
25% Petrol
25% Medicated paraffin oil



Jens Eirik

andrew b

In reply to DIESELDAN


Sure, the original PAW carbs are not so good but with the decline of the LHS here we don't have much choice.......................of course we COULD use the carbs from busted Irvine 20's and 40's (the older Irvine glow motors had a propensity to throw the rod out thru the crankcase).

I was thinking of drilling out a standard PAW carb body as so ===>

1. Englarge the front air bleed hole to 1.25 MM, this is to allow an excess of air to enter.
2. A 0.8 MM drilling in front and parralel to the main airway, going down to meet with the air bleed hole.
3. Tapping the above drilling to M1 and fitting a screw and spring. , the tip of the new "idle mixture" screw could have a small taper to make adjustment less sensitive.This should enable the amount of air entering the engine via the enlarged air bleed hole to be varied.

Maybe this isn't done by PAW nowadays due to ===>

1. Cost of work for the extra drilling/tapping operation.
2. Less parts for users/flight line experts [:@] to twiddle with/break resulting in complaints that "this damn engine is no good" when users lose all the settings or worse............putting on the electric rod-buster

What are your thoughts on this?
Andrew

andrew b

I remember years ago I bought a new Enya 09 r/c (my first rc motor) and it wouldn't idle well, always cutting out because it was too rich. I tried unscrewing the idle mixture screw and the motor would run much better with the screw almost out to the last thread, so with a1mm drill bit I opened up the idle air intake hole (it was 0.7mm). This cured it completely, the mixture screw had to be screwed in to 1/2 way obscuring the intake and it gave me a sweet idle.
Must have been a "friday afternoon" engine



Taking a closer look at the carb, the body is just a piece of 1/2" aluminium stock bar [>:] I could make another body from 15mm bar, just plane the needle valve side down to 12mm to accept the original brass barrel , needle assy, throttle stop AND include an idle mixture screw !

[8D] I wonder if I made a few of these marketed as" CARB BODY AND IDLE AIR SCREW" and that used all the other original carb parts I could sell them for about $10

AMB

Andrew do not "guilde the Lily" looks like the hole thing was a fix, the only real problem I had with my paws was the 40 it would bog
with advance of the throttle from loading up at idle It was cured by going to a twin neddle MVVS carb, runs super I understand there
has been some improvments in the PAW carb at least on the larger ones since I do not have one, used one, or seen one cannot comment on it My latest is an 06 and its runs quite nicely even with the antique carb. As far as older Irvines tossing rods I have the old silver case 40 and 36 converted to diesel and they do fine the 36 swings the same props as the 40 diesel at the same speed. martin

andrew b

I think they "bog" because the cylinder has cooled down while idling, bigger prop helps this by giving better flywheel action.

The carb we see nowadays on PAW's is relatively new, the older ones had the twin screws for idle mixture. PAW also sell a "better" carb @ £25 ($40 US) [:@]

gkamysz

My Feedback: (19)

I've found John Deere part number RE33636 is the best. Check you local John Deere dealer of their site www.deere.com

Greg