After A LOT of run time on my BBB mix I tore down the 40 LA to clean it out after an encounter with lots of dirt....

It looks great inside. The liner and piston look great. There is a thin layer of carbon in the center of the piston. The rod end is great, the crank case is very clean and everthing looks good. I knew that Chevron Dello 400 is good stuff though. It is the one of the best products that the Chevron labs can come up with for diesel engines so it isn't much work for a one trip through a model airplane engine.

One thing I have seen is carbon built up on the top of my PAW piston though. It is posible that the .40 LA has had more carbon in it and spit it out.......

I also feel very green about burning up that toxic waste!

Treven.

That's great to hear. I look forward to burning less ether.

Well done. That's good confirmation that engine longevity CAN be achieved despite using only 6% ether and pre-used oil out of your road vehicle.

I might get to test engine longevity myself if it ever stops raining here. Wettest June in the UK since about 1914 or so......

I haven't had the courage to use my crankcase drainings for my model diesels.... yet.

I push my sump oil to 10.000 miles instead of the usual 5,000 recommended for most diesel cars.
The oil I use is specially formulated and has sufficient additives to continue working well after most diesel oils have lost their effectiveness. The company have been working on doubling the drainage times of their oils for some time now. A sales reps car did 250,000 miles in less than 5 years. It was stripped by an independent research organisation and the engine and gearbox components were as new, despite the oil having been changed at 10,000 mile intervals instead of 5,000.

This is the oil, although new - not used, that I have been using in my own fuel mixes.

Keep up the good work Treven.

I run my oil for 10k of highway use too. I used to send samples to the lab when I was extending the intervals. The report always came back with everything looking good....

I still maintain that if the oil isn't good enough or clean enough for your $75 model airplane engine than it certainly wasn't clean enough for relatively epensive and important car and it should have been drained sooner.

I do think there is more carbon build up though than castor oil and it ceartainly is black!

On my .19's and down to .09's I use my BBB 1/2 a mix which is half commercial fuel so I have a much higher either content and those and it just makes the small engine run better and they don't use much fuel anyway.

On PAW .033 and down I use straight commercial model airplane fue because the like it and don't burn enough fuel to even cosider the cost.....

I noticed more carbon after just a few minutes bench time while running motor oil in my four strokes. I think that some additives might improve this. I thought about adding some Diesel Kleen to try it out. I had some early on before I found Amsoil ACB locally. I did run some fuel with the Diesel Kleen but I was concentrating on making the thing run rather than deposits. After I found ACB, I gave the DK to my father to burn in his 5.9L. With Maxima Castor I have just a light film that wipes off.

That should have been 5.9L!

Castor is better I guess because it doesn't burn very easily and the engine oil does. It does seem like that the carbon level gets to a ceartain point and then no more builds up.... It is also a thoght that the carbon actually helps combustion by insulating the compression heat from the cold aluminum...... A poor man's ceramic coating??

Treven, I see you spotted the MPJet. Nice!

Yup! I just got one recently and boy do they run great and I have good little plane to put it on. The one I have does 11,700 on an 8x4 MAS and 13,300 on an 8x3 MAS - a little power house! It also starts with 2 chokes and a flip and no adjustment!

If your OS 40 4 stroke goes for a fortune and that gets you going on working on that stuff please put me on the list for a Adjustable Lanova chamber...... I have some engines I want to convert and see no point in making my own Lanovas if you are going to do them...

Treven.

There are not enough to put adjustable lanova camber in 4 stroke engine, you must remove material in cylinder head to increase compression ratio and shortening push rod and drill a bit deeper in the seat holes in the crank case (valvelifter) for push rod cover to fit between cylinderhead and crankcase.

Yes, You were very helpfull in explaining all of that and I remember well! Got the 4 jaw chuck all ready to go!