Poor quality in electronics.
#26
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
ORIGINAL: SAVAGEJIM
A return spring is good, but remember that there are cases in which the servo might get locked in position from low power and the spring is not strong enough to override the torque of the servo. If this happens, the RC will still run away. A good failsafe that is preprogrammed to activate the brakes and put the throttle to idle is he best solution. I highly endores a failsafe that will activate to failsfe mode if the batts drop below 3V, that way, the servoes and batts have enough juice to stop the RC and put it in idle before anything really bad happens.
ORIGINAL: tihstae
you should also get a return spring in case you lose power
you should also get a return spring in case you lose power
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
ORIGINAL: SAVAGEJIM
A return spring is good, but remember that there are cases in which the servo might get locked in position from low power and the spring is not strong enough to override the torque of the servo. If this happens, the RC will still run away. A good failsafe that is preprogrammed to activate the brakes and put the throttle to idle is he best solution. I highly endores a failsafe that will activate to failsfe mode if the batts drop below 3V, that way, the servoes and batts have enough juice to stop the RC and put it in idle before anything really bad happens.
ORIGINAL: tihstae
you should also get a return spring in case you lose power
you should also get a return spring in case you lose power
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
ORIGINAL: tihstae
but i said also, so just in case the failsafe doesnt work then the return spring might. and what about if the batteries pop out or something like that, then the failsafe isnt going to work. return spring with a failsafe is the best way to go in my opinion
ORIGINAL: SAVAGEJIM
A return spring is good, but remember that there are cases in which the servo might get locked in position from low power and the spring is not strong enough to override the torque of the servo. If this happens, the RC will still run away. A good failsafe that is preprogrammed to activate the brakes and put the throttle to idle is he best solution. I highly endores a failsafe that will activate to failsfe mode if the batts drop below 3V, that way, the servoes and batts have enough juice to stop the RC and put it in idle before anything really bad happens.
A return spring is good, but remember that there are cases in which the servo might get locked in position from low power and the spring is not strong enough to override the torque of the servo. If this happens, the RC will still run away. A good failsafe that is preprogrammed to activate the brakes and put the throttle to idle is he best solution. I highly endores a failsafe that will activate to failsfe mode if the batts drop below 3V, that way, the servoes and batts have enough juice to stop the RC and put it in idle before anything really bad happens.
As for the battery popping out, if that ever happened to you, that is a very good reason why the prechecks and securing the components are an absolute must. A batt, RX, & servos with all the plugs seated properly will not pop out. Also, making sure these bits are secured well in the elctronics box and the servoes are bolted down properly into their mounts will help ensure plugs coming loose and batts popping out dont happen. Also, tucking away excess wires and stuffing them into the electronics box is a must. This ensures pulling out the batt connector or servo connectors will not happen.
I have never ahd an RC runaway from me because of the batt connector coming loose. I have had the batt connector come loose on several occasions, but that was from severe wrecks in which the RC was totalled. Of course, the RC is not going anywhere after that.
#29
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
ORIGINAL: SAVAGEJIM
I am not saying dont use a return spring. Every single one of my RCs have them and I would never take them off the engines, I consider them integral parts. Though it is rare for the case I described, it does happen. I have had that happen on a Spektrum RX I had (actually, on two occasions it happened). The return springs unfortunately were overidded by the torque of the servos as they malfunctioned from too low of volts going into them. I just think that Spektrum didnt design its built-in failsafe to activate early enough before the batts get too low and the RX and servos begin to malfunction. Sadly, most RTRs, if they even have built-in failsafes, do not kick in early enough either.
As for the battery popping out, if that ever happened to you, that is a very good reason why the prechecks and securing the components are an absolute must. A batt, RX, & servos with all the plugs seated properly will not pop out. Also, making sure these bits are secured well in the elctronics box and the servoes are bolted down properly into their mounts will help ensure plugs coming loose and batts popping out dont happen. Also, tucking away excess wires and stuffing them into the electronics box is a must. This ensures pulling out the batt connector or servo connectors will not happen.
I have never ahd an RC runaway from me because of the batt connector coming loose. I have had the batt connector come loose on several occasions, but that was from severe wrecks in which the RC was totalled. Of course, the RC is not going anywhere after that.
ORIGINAL: tihstae
but i said also, so just in case the failsafe doesnt work then the return spring might. and what about if the batteries pop out or something like that, then the failsafe isnt going to work. return spring with a failsafe is the best way to go in my opinion
ORIGINAL: SAVAGEJIM
A return spring is good, but remember that there are cases in which the servo might get locked in position from low power and the spring is not strong enough to override the torque of the servo. If this happens, the RC will still run away. A good failsafe that is preprogrammed to activate the brakes and put the throttle to idle is he best solution. I highly endores a failsafe that will activate to failsfe mode if the batts drop below 3V, that way, the servoes and batts have enough juice to stop the RC and put it in idle before anything really bad happens.
A return spring is good, but remember that there are cases in which the servo might get locked in position from low power and the spring is not strong enough to override the torque of the servo. If this happens, the RC will still run away. A good failsafe that is preprogrammed to activate the brakes and put the throttle to idle is he best solution. I highly endores a failsafe that will activate to failsfe mode if the batts drop below 3V, that way, the servoes and batts have enough juice to stop the RC and put it in idle before anything really bad happens.
As for the battery popping out, if that ever happened to you, that is a very good reason why the prechecks and securing the components are an absolute must. A batt, RX, & servos with all the plugs seated properly will not pop out. Also, making sure these bits are secured well in the elctronics box and the servoes are bolted down properly into their mounts will help ensure plugs coming loose and batts popping out dont happen. Also, tucking away excess wires and stuffing them into the electronics box is a must. This ensures pulling out the batt connector or servo connectors will not happen.
I have never ahd an RC runaway from me because of the batt connector coming loose. I have had the batt connector come loose on several occasions, but that was from severe wrecks in which the RC was totalled. Of course, the RC is not going anywhere after that.
How hard are they to take install and remove. Say I wanted to run my hyper 7 one day, and my Exceed the next. Could I just transfer it between cars, or is that not possible?
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
Absolutely! For now, you can do that, you just have to pull it out of one RX, reinstall it into the next, then set your EPAs for the respective RC. Of course, you will have to go though this hassel every time, at least until you are able to buy another RX.
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
ORIGINAL: SAVAGEJIM
Absolutely! For now, you can do that, you just have to pull it out of one RX, reinstall it into the next, then set your EPAs for the respective RC. Of course, you will have to go though this hassel every time, at least until you are able to buy another RX.
Absolutely! For now, you can do that, you just have to pull it out of one RX, reinstall it into the next, then set your EPAs for the respective RC. Of course, you will have to go though this hassel every time, at least until you are able to buy another RX.
And yes I checked the obvious stuff first. The tuning is fine, and its not flooded, and the glow plug works.
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
I just bought two of the 1/10 Forza buggies; which electronic and regular failsafe would work on these? My previous 1/10 was distroyed because it lost its signal. What else should I purchase as a "must" in the terms of protection for the buggies. Thanks for helping me out.
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
the cheapest radio you could get would be the futaba on tower that i know of, its an upgrade from the stock, but still isnt the best. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXASX3**&P=7
so since your getting two it would only be just above 100. then get two failsafes, and get two throttle return springs. if your batteries pop out of something, then there is a chance that the return spring will pull the servo back.
so since your getting two it would only be just above 100. then get two failsafes, and get two throttle return springs. if your batteries pop out of something, then there is a chance that the return spring will pull the servo back.
#34
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
ORIGINAL: tihstae
the cheapest radio you could get would be the futaba on tower that i know of, its an upgrade from the stock, but still isnt the best. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXASX3**&P=7
so since your getting two it would only be just above 100. then get two failsafes, and get two throttle return springs. if your batteries pop out of something, then there is a chance that the return spring will pull the servo back.
the cheapest radio you could get would be the futaba on tower that i know of, its an upgrade from the stock, but still isnt the best. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXASX3**&P=7
so since your getting two it would only be just above 100. then get two failsafes, and get two throttle return springs. if your batteries pop out of something, then there is a chance that the return spring will pull the servo back.
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
tihstae, what failsafe would you buy for the 1/10 Forza. I really want to protect these as much as possible. Thanks in advance. And will it be easy to replace and reprogram the new servo and failsafe?
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
ORIGINAL: rjsdad
tihstae, what failsafe would you buy for the 1/10 Forza. I really want to protect these as much as possible. Thanks in advance. And will it be easy to replace and reprogram the new servo and failsafe?
tihstae, what failsafe would you buy for the 1/10 Forza. I really want to protect these as much as possible. Thanks in advance. And will it be easy to replace and reprogram the new servo and failsafe?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEYG2
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
I really do appreciate and value everyone comments. Frozenshade, would the fail-safe work with the Forza stock transmitter? Or do I have to purchase a better one? Thanks again.
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
Thank you, I will place an order this weekend, and start saving my pennies for the two transmitters. Thanks again.
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
This is late, but had the same problem on my sons Fonza's buggy. The electronics would cut out if he jumped hard or hit something, or would just go out. I did two things to fix the problem:
1) Got rid of the on/off switch on the car, just ran battery connetor outside of barrery case and unplug batteris when I want to turn it off. The switch appeared to be turning off from virbration
2) I packed the receiver in foam in the battery case. That way the received does not bounce around inside the battery case.
The electronics haven't cut off since and he has been jumping alot (and crashing)
1) Got rid of the on/off switch on the car, just ran battery connetor outside of barrery case and unplug batteris when I want to turn it off. The switch appeared to be turning off from virbration
2) I packed the receiver in foam in the battery case. That way the received does not bounce around inside the battery case.
The electronics haven't cut off since and he has been jumping alot (and crashing)
#43
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
Considering how cheap the cost of the truck/truggy/buggy's are, wouldnt it make sense to buy some type of upgraded equipment? I have a Futaba radio/receiver I'm going to drop into mine once I get it. Plus I'm going to order a fail safe too before I even start this thing up. I had my T-Maxx run away from me once and cost me $140 in parts and then another $30 for the fail safe. It's not worth it to run without one. How are the stock servo's in these truck's? Do they need to be upgraded as well?
#44
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
I personally dont have much faith in hsp electronics, especially the radio and reciever...the servo's can be decent or not last long at all....I have upgraded all my radios for jr units...I also prefer to run a hitec 645mg servo especially on 1/8ths...granted this drives up your cost for the hobby but you got a better handle on your rc..I also would suggest getting a radio with end point adjustments...
#46
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
end point adjustments lets you controll the lenght of travel your servo will move...for instance, usually a throttle servo will travel further then what the carb needs...this is not only hard on the carb but also the servo...by limiting the travel to just were you u cant see the slide of the carb on a slide carb or just as the hole on the rotory carb is all shown, your only using the amount of travel needed...also usually the travel of a steering servo is greater then the turning radios of the rc....by setting the end point of travel to the turning radios of the rc your easier on your servo, also you will have more run time on your reciever battery
#47
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
When you guys are talking about the batteries coming out, are you talking about the battery coming out of the battery holder? Or the compartment?
A quick and easy fix is buy a rechargable battery pack and toss the battery holder.
A quick and easy fix is buy a rechargable battery pack and toss the battery holder.
#48
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
So over all, what do you guys think of the Forza? Like I mentioned before, I'm going to have the wife buy me one for x-mas but I dont want her to be wasting her money at the same time.
#49
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
personally I would get a 1/8th rc if your going to get an exceed... the 1/8ths are more durable...if your wanting an exceed buggy I would look at the razor...I basically got the same buggy as the razor and once I figured out how to keep my front knuckle screws tight and not strip out the knuckles I've had very few trouble...rc cars have their limits and the 1/10ths limits are far less then the 1/8ths...now if your just going to drive it around in the street or on dirt u should be ok...however I wouldnt launch it off any decent sized jumps...
#50
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RE: Poor quality in electronics.
I dont do much jumping as it is. I run in the street alot or out back in the yard. The 1/8's look cool but the bigger they are the more they cost to fix. I was going to get the Thunder Tiger Tomahawk BX. That's a real nice looking buggy, but believe it or not, I can't find any web sites that carry stock parts. The buggy is only $227 But it'll be hell trying to get new parts. Well Exceed it is. Thanks guys for all the input. If you think there is anything else I need to know, feel free to post.