VX18 Not used for a while, help
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: TaurangaBOP, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
VX18 Not used for a while, help
Hi all.
I have the 1/10th buggy with vertex .18 engine. Hadnt had it out for quite some time as I lost interest over winter and it was broken. Now fixed it up and having trouble getting it too run.
Engine runs but idles too high even with the screw right out. Dies at random sometimes at idle sometimes at full throttle. Appears to leak fuel around where the carb attaches to the engine and around the idle screw.
So my question is if the old fuel has perished the O-ring in the carb, can the carb be dismantled to replace them if so how many and where are they located.
Or could there be another problem? Clogged muffler pushing too much fuel pressure prehaps?
Any input would be great, before I go ordering parts I dont need
I have the 1/10th buggy with vertex .18 engine. Hadnt had it out for quite some time as I lost interest over winter and it was broken. Now fixed it up and having trouble getting it too run.
Engine runs but idles too high even with the screw right out. Dies at random sometimes at idle sometimes at full throttle. Appears to leak fuel around where the carb attaches to the engine and around the idle screw.
So my question is if the old fuel has perished the O-ring in the carb, can the carb be dismantled to replace them if so how many and where are they located.
Or could there be another problem? Clogged muffler pushing too much fuel pressure prehaps?
Any input would be great, before I go ordering parts I dont need
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Torchy the Fiery Fast RC Turtl
Posts: 10,544
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: VX18 Not used for a while, help
This happens alot for engines that have not been in use and stored properly for a long time. I'm not accusing you of being lazy and not taking care of your RC, just saying that many people do not know how to prepare an engind for long term storage. And this happens to ALL nitro engines, not any particular make or whatever.
For you engine, the most probable cause is fuel that was in the engine, particularly in the carb, got gummed up for the time it sat in storage. The best thing to do is dismount the engine, tear it down, and give it a good cleaning from the inside out.
Pay close attention to the carb. take out all the needles, inspect the needles, replace the o-sings, clean out the carb as best as possible. Make sure the carb opens and closes smoothly. A carb that sticks when opening and closing is a good culprit for the engine seeming to overrev when you let off the trigger.
For the recesses where the needles go into, get some pipe cleaners (the smaller, the better), and clean out the carb as best as possible. Then reassemble the carb, and as you throw it back to gether, be sure to get some Associated green slime and wipe that on the new 0-rings to protect them. Green Slime also prevenst air leacks past the o-rings.
And as you assemble the rest of the engine back together, RTV seal it to attack other possible air leaks.
For you engine, the most probable cause is fuel that was in the engine, particularly in the carb, got gummed up for the time it sat in storage. The best thing to do is dismount the engine, tear it down, and give it a good cleaning from the inside out.
Pay close attention to the carb. take out all the needles, inspect the needles, replace the o-sings, clean out the carb as best as possible. Make sure the carb opens and closes smoothly. A carb that sticks when opening and closing is a good culprit for the engine seeming to overrev when you let off the trigger.
For the recesses where the needles go into, get some pipe cleaners (the smaller, the better), and clean out the carb as best as possible. Then reassemble the carb, and as you throw it back to gether, be sure to get some Associated green slime and wipe that on the new 0-rings to protect them. Green Slime also prevenst air leacks past the o-rings.
And as you assemble the rest of the engine back together, RTV seal it to attack other possible air leaks.