NEW Weston UK MINI MangumR ??
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I have a Macs open pipe and trimmed the header until it maxed out on a lower pitch bench prop, then ran it on the higher pitch versions to fly. The 8x10 is well matched to the stock header/pipe setup.
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Hello, All.. Gonna see if anyone is still paying attention to this thread..
Just bought a Weston Magnum, with the West Eurotec engine.. I am guessing that it is the .50 size, and I am not sure which model exactly, as I cannot find any markings on the engine other than a W on one side and "Made in Austria" on the other.
I have a couple of Issues I need to address..
first off, the horizontal stab was broken off at the Fuse sides, I have removed it, but I need either a good drawing with dimensions so that I might recreate a new stab, as close to the original as possible, or a good top down photo with a ruler just below it for size reference so that I might Extrapolate the diminsions and design..
second, the plane /engine combo didn't come with the header pipe, does anyone know of an aftermarket header pipe that will work well with this engine? also, the Tuned pipe that I did get is pretty dented up, so maybe even a recommendation for a good aftermarket tuned pipe for this engine would be helpful...
Thanks in Advance for any and all input, thoughts, recommendations & etc.
Craig.
Just bought a Weston Magnum, with the West Eurotec engine.. I am guessing that it is the .50 size, and I am not sure which model exactly, as I cannot find any markings on the engine other than a W on one side and "Made in Austria" on the other.
I have a couple of Issues I need to address..
first off, the horizontal stab was broken off at the Fuse sides, I have removed it, but I need either a good drawing with dimensions so that I might recreate a new stab, as close to the original as possible, or a good top down photo with a ruler just below it for size reference so that I might Extrapolate the diminsions and design..
second, the plane /engine combo didn't come with the header pipe, does anyone know of an aftermarket header pipe that will work well with this engine? also, the Tuned pipe that I did get is pretty dented up, so maybe even a recommendation for a good aftermarket tuned pipe for this engine would be helpful...
Thanks in Advance for any and all input, thoughts, recommendations & etc.
Craig.
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[link]http://www.westonuk.co.uk/westonuk2_007.htm[/link]
Get in touch with these guys if all else fails.
I use a Mac's header and pipe for my Webra .50. The engine has had the exhaust timing raised to 180 degrees and it really screams with 7.5 x 8 props.
Get in touch with these guys if all else fails.
I use a Mac's header and pipe for my Webra .50. The engine has had the exhaust timing raised to 180 degrees and it really screams with 7.5 x 8 props.
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CP, I just found that I do have a header that will fit the west engine.. it also happens to be connected to a Tuned pipe.. I also have the tuned pipe that came with the engine, but it's pretty banged up.. will a pretty dented (none deeper than about 1/8 inch or so, just alot of dents!) TP make a big difference, or should I try the other pipe that I have, and it only has a couple of dents.. they seem to be of comparable length.
This will be my first aircraft with a tuned pipe, so I can use all the help I can get..
Vicman, thanks for the pics, they will help greatly... I want to make this as close to stock as I can. about how much anihederal does the Horiz stab have? Looks to be about 3/4 - 1 inch at each tip..
thanks again to everyone for the help..
Craig.
This will be my first aircraft with a tuned pipe, so I can use all the help I can get..
Vicman, thanks for the pics, they will help greatly... I want to make this as close to stock as I can. about how much anihederal does the Horiz stab have? Looks to be about 3/4 - 1 inch at each tip..
thanks again to everyone for the help..
Craig.
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ORIGINAL: SeaJay
CP, I just found that I do have a header that will fit the west engine.. it also happens to be connected to a Tuned pipe.. I also have the tuned pipe that came with the engine, but it's pretty banged up.. will a pretty dented (none deeper than about 1/8 inch or so, just alot of dents!)
CP, I just found that I do have a header that will fit the west engine.. it also happens to be connected to a Tuned pipe.. I also have the tuned pipe that came with the engine, but it's pretty banged up.. will a pretty dented (none deeper than about 1/8 inch or so, just alot of dents!)
You might need guidance from the forum for how to match prop diameter to the drag of the plane in question.
Run these props on your engine with open exhaust to get an idea about rpm potential.
Now you have gathered enough information to give to Mac's Products so they can tell you which pipe is the best to try.
Tune the system so that it out performs the results you got with open exhaust. Shorten the header in 1/4" increments with a 32 tooth or finer hacksaw. You should see a gradual increase in rpm after each trimming. Stop when the rpm after the last trimming does not produce higher rpm.
If you are serious about speed, you will raise the exhaust port for 180 degrees of open duration, choose a plane that doesn't require much prop diameter...and tune the engine for an explosive boost with a short exhaust system that might even include trimming the pipe itself after you've trimmed the header as much as you can.
You can iron out dents in the pipe by making a tool to press them out. I use aluminum round stock with the end rounded. You might need to bend the bar to reach every place inside the pipe. I've fixed some pretty mangled pipes this way.
The Webra .50 is a very versatile engine stock. With a APC 9x8 it will pull a small delta over 150 mph. It doesn't really breathe right [for speed applications] unless the carb is replaced with a 10 mm venturi and the exhaust timing gets raised. The intake closing should be set at 60 degress. The crankshaft's inner bore can't be opened up far enough to make this a 200 mph engine. This is the limiting factor on ALL ".40 class" engines unless you step up to the bigger shafted engines like the Nelsons. The smaller shaft engines just can't process enough air for their size and weight.
At any rate the Webra .50 can be tweaked to run in the 170 mph range.
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ORIGINAL: combatpigg
Get a target airspeed that is realistic for your engine / plane...then a short list of closely related props.
You might need guidance from the forum for how to match prop diameter to the drag of the plane in question.
Run these props on your engine with open exhaust to get an idea about rpm potential.
Now you have gathered enough information to give to Mac's Products so they can tell you which pipe is the best to try.
Tune the system so that it out performs the results you got with open exhaust. Shorten the header in 1/4'' increments with a 32 tooth or finer hacksaw. You should see a gradual increase in rpm after each trimming. Stop when the rpm after the last trimming does not produce higher rpm.
If you are serious about speed, you will raise the exhaust port for 180 degrees of open duration, choose a plane that doesn't require much prop diameter...and tune the engine for an explosive boost with a short exhaust system that might even include trimming the pipe itself after you've trimmed the header as much as you can.
You can iron out dents in the pipe by making a tool to press them out. I use aluminum round stock with the end rounded. You might need to bend the bar to reach every place inside the pipe. I've fixed some pretty mangled pipes this way.
The Webra .50 is a very versatile engine stock. With a APC 9x8 it will pull a small delta over 150 mph. It doesn't really breathe right [for speed applications] unless the carb is replaced with a 10 mm venturi and the exhaust timing gets raised. The intake closing should be set at 60 degress. The crankshaft's inner bore can't be opened up far enough to make this a 200 mph engine. This is the limiting factor on ALL ''.40 class'' engines unless you step up to the bigger shafted engines like the Nelsons. The smaller shaft engines just can't process enough air for their size and weight.
At any rate the Webra .50 can be tweaked to run in the 170 mph range.
ORIGINAL: SeaJay
CP, I just found that I do have a header that will fit the west engine.. it also happens to be connected to a Tuned pipe.. I also have the tuned pipe that came with the engine, but it's pretty banged up.. will a pretty dented (none deeper than about 1/8 inch or so, just alot of dents!)
CP, I just found that I do have a header that will fit the west engine.. it also happens to be connected to a Tuned pipe.. I also have the tuned pipe that came with the engine, but it's pretty banged up.. will a pretty dented (none deeper than about 1/8 inch or so, just alot of dents!)
You might need guidance from the forum for how to match prop diameter to the drag of the plane in question.
Run these props on your engine with open exhaust to get an idea about rpm potential.
Now you have gathered enough information to give to Mac's Products so they can tell you which pipe is the best to try.
Tune the system so that it out performs the results you got with open exhaust. Shorten the header in 1/4'' increments with a 32 tooth or finer hacksaw. You should see a gradual increase in rpm after each trimming. Stop when the rpm after the last trimming does not produce higher rpm.
If you are serious about speed, you will raise the exhaust port for 180 degrees of open duration, choose a plane that doesn't require much prop diameter...and tune the engine for an explosive boost with a short exhaust system that might even include trimming the pipe itself after you've trimmed the header as much as you can.
You can iron out dents in the pipe by making a tool to press them out. I use aluminum round stock with the end rounded. You might need to bend the bar to reach every place inside the pipe. I've fixed some pretty mangled pipes this way.
The Webra .50 is a very versatile engine stock. With a APC 9x8 it will pull a small delta over 150 mph. It doesn't really breathe right [for speed applications] unless the carb is replaced with a 10 mm venturi and the exhaust timing gets raised. The intake closing should be set at 60 degress. The crankshaft's inner bore can't be opened up far enough to make this a 200 mph engine. This is the limiting factor on ALL ''.40 class'' engines unless you step up to the bigger shafted engines like the Nelsons. The smaller shaft engines just can't process enough air for their size and weight.
At any rate the Webra .50 can be tweaked to run in the 170 mph range.
+1
once you get the pipe set to your rpm you should have the with a 1 size bigger pitch so that when in the air it will unload to the rpm you had set the pipe on the ground.
also one other way to fix dents in pipes is to cap of one end with tape or what ever you want then fill it with water to just above the dent. Then stick it in the freezer it may take a couple of times to get right but it will come out just like new.
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Thanks to all for the info..
Airraptor, I was actually trying to figure out how to get those dents out.. I had considered taking my torch to it, and seeing if the solder joint would come apart easily, but you Water/freezer idea seems muc easier.. The water in the pipe, then in the freezer thing is an awesome idea, something I would have never thought of.. since there are dents pretty much up and down the entire length of the pipe, would you just comlpetely fill the pipe with water, and see what happens, or would you just fill to the first dent, get that one out, then progress up the pipe to the second dent, and so on, until all dents are out?
thanks for the Ideas and help!!![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Craig.
Airraptor, I was actually trying to figure out how to get those dents out.. I had considered taking my torch to it, and seeing if the solder joint would come apart easily, but you Water/freezer idea seems muc easier.. The water in the pipe, then in the freezer thing is an awesome idea, something I would have never thought of.. since there are dents pretty much up and down the entire length of the pipe, would you just comlpetely fill the pipe with water, and see what happens, or would you just fill to the first dent, get that one out, then progress up the pipe to the second dent, and so on, until all dents are out?
thanks for the Ideas and help!!
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Craig.
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i wouldnt fill all the way up as it could cause it to burst open leave some room for it expand. maybe fill half way now it may still cause it to burst open or split open so your taking a chance. i once had a pipe that was on one of my speed planes. it was set up for my Jett 35 rear exhaust engine. this pipe wasnt made anymore. well the plane crashed at a high rate of speed. large debri field about 50 feet wide by 200 or more in length. I didnt find the pipe. I thought i would just buy another till i found out they were no longer made. It was a special marine pipe set up for Dubb. so a month later i went looking for it. I did find it but it was flattened by all the cows walking on it. The water trick worked very well on it. only one small dent i couldnt get out. now other pipes i have tried worked well also but had one split open. So its up to you if want to use this method.
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I really don't have much to loose by giving it a try, besides, I have not always been accused of taking the safe route!! Will give it a try and let you know the results..
Thanks again, Craig.
Thanks again, Craig.
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I know it has been awhile, but I did the water trick, and it worked.. all of the major dents are gone, and just a few very small dents remain! It worked so well that there was one area that it stretched a little, but the pipe didn't burst, so I am figuring that the pipe should work great..
thanks for the tip, Airraptor!!
Now to try it on a Macs tuned muffler for an ST S3000 that went in full bore, and the pipe is folded in at the curve of the muffler!!
thanks for the tip, Airraptor!!
Now to try it on a Macs tuned muffler for an ST S3000 that went in full bore, and the pipe is folded in at the curve of the muffler!!