Yellowsierra02

I was kinda wondering how well a YS70 would do in a WM dago Red P-51. I owned a PM strega with a YS110 a few years back and it was a blast. The YS110 was heavy and was alittle hard to work on with the amount of space it took up but it was a beast in the air. I think with a 13 x10 prop and 30% nitro I was running right at 130 mph. I guess what Im asking is would the YS70 have enough power to hit maybe 120 or so with the right prop??? 11 x 10 or should I just go with the new YS115? I found one video on Youtube of a WM dago running a YS63 and it looked quick in the video but it was alittle hard to tell...


Thanks


Justin

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

The dago is about one pound more that the wood mustangs. It needs to be light to fly fast on little power. I would go for the 115 in the airframe with a new horizontal stab.

Use the 70 on a smaller airframe.

Oh yeah it will not get to 120 with the 70 on it. The 70 is about the same power as my Saito 91 on 30% and its maybe 110 or so.

freakingfast

My Feedback: (3)

The WM Dago Red & the Voodoo are heavier, so use the others, you don't need the extra wight. I'd go with the YS 115, but do all the plane beef-up mods or you'll be planting a balsa tree.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

I will thow in my vote for the 115 too. And I'm a 2 stroke guy lol!!!

freakingfast

My Feedback: (3)

With a YS 110/115 or YS heli 91 you WILL need a Sullivan Cylinder 16oz for decent flight time. It would be a good idea to double or even triple some formers or bulkheads to retain the strength because of how much material must be removed to fit the tank. The tank cannot rub on any thing hard as this will in one flight put a hole in the thin tank and flood the electronics thus kill the plane! I have seen this happen twice (not to me ) These engines produce a lot of vibration, I've seen wing tangs fiction burnt, thin brass sheet on one side the joint stops the wood from burning. Back to the tank. Don't use the cheap or questionable import tanks that could fail under pressure. To keep the tank's neck from splitting when I crank down the stopper, I like to wind some tight wraps of Kevlar thread around the neck of the tank and lock it down with thin CA then protect the CA with a thin coat of 15 minute epoxy. (most 5 minute epoxy is not fuel resistant). Use a Sullivan heavy duty multi fuel stopper kit (blue anodized). Some tanks are very hard to install the stopper because there is little to no chamfer, so with a sharp Exacto knife cut a SMALL bevel. Wet the stopper with spit and it should go. Box or rectangular tanks sides can swell when it gets pressurized so allow room if you go this route for your needs.

Hayes tanks are very strong too.

freakingfast

My Feedback: (3)

Yeah, me too, but the 115 is proven and no pipe to hang & tune, else I'd say the NEW YS 91 heli spinning a 11X11 at 15,500[:-][:-]

Yellowsierra02

Thanks for the fast response guys. If I reinforce the rear stab Im guessing I would have to recover it. Whats the easiest way to match up the color. One other plane I was looking at was the Great planes P-51. Im not sure if it is built as strong as the WM but I noticed that it had a foam core wing...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAFCB&P=0

Justin

freakingfast

My Feedback: (3)

Great planes P-51....not with a ten foot pole.

MustangAce

My Feedback: (3)

I just put a YS 115 on my old WM Petie 2 with a 65 inch wingspan. Originally had a YS 110. Seems like a lot more power and this time the break in prop is a 14/12!

freakingfast

My Feedback: (3)

Pick a new color! If it were me, I'd be pulling the all the covering off the WM so I could wick some thin CA glue on the main spar, shear webs, gear mounts, etc. and drill small holes into the bottom of the closed wing compartments to walk some CA around the inside corners. Glass the wing center section (wing halves) . Drip some CA into the firewall and wing bulkhead/former and wing mounts. Sand each side of stab down without touching the elevator so that when sheeting both sides with 1/32" ply, it's as thin as the elevator. "Y" or double push rod the elevator (horn on each stab).

Yellowsierra02

I was just reading that they use the YS 70 in the bronse and silver class...

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

The 70 would be good in the bronze class but would be a bit slow for silver. At least if you were to mount it on an ARF. If it were an airplane built specifically for racing and had maybe 55" span and 450 sq in no more then 4.5 lbs. None come to mind as a n ARF or kit even. My Macchi 202 powered with a hopped up Rossi 45 is a good example. It would rock with the 70.

Yellowsierra02

Well I have a WM Dago Red and a YS115 sitting in my hobby room! IS there any threads I can read to help me with fitting the YS motor in my plane along with any tips in the building?

Thanks Guys for the help!


Justin

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Try the scale racing forum