Jett quickie on a Shrike
05-10-2007, 12:01 AM
#29
RE: Jett quickie on a Shrike
Shrike update.
I got some building time in the last few days. Here is whats up.
All sheeting is done.
Modified fin outline. Looks less angular. Leading edge of fins are faired into the wing. The trailing edge of the fins is even with the leading edge of the elevator.
Capped the rear of the fuse. Elevator exit will be in the center. I cut down a Dubro antenna wire exit shroud to fair in the pushrod exit. Don't think it will work, it is too short. Think I will shape one out of balsa. May not be neccessary, but it will look fast!!
Elevator as supplied is 2 1/4"deep. Way more than neccessory for such a fast airframe. It's also an invitation for flutter. I reduced it to 1 5/8" which also reduced the leading edge to 5/16" to match the trailing edge of the filler panels between the fins. The elevator extends beyond the fins trailing edge. Has not yet been beveled or hinged.
Wing trailing edge mods;
2 3/4" of the aileron stock is fixed to the trailing edge of the wing. The ailerons are 7" long. I faired in the area between the ailerons and the fins. This contured fairing is 3/16" balsa sheet capped diagonally with 1/16" balsa. Light and strong. I am not happy with the right aileron fit and may make a new one. The hinge line on the outboard end is not centered to my satisfaction. I sanded too much on one side of the aileron.
A bit of Shrike history. My first Shrike built to plans with a Magnum .15, would snap on hard elevator input [dead plane]. My second Shrike with the piped .32 and wing and fuse mods had 2 degrees of washout and winglets. Never snapped [dead plane. low and fast crowd pleaser, a little too low]. So this Shrike has 2 degrees of washout built in and I am going to ad winglets after the final sand.
Next up is finish sanding, fill low spots and dents, blend the fuse wing joint and the fin fuse joint. final sand and start glassing. Sounds easy huh?
Still need to get some bench time on the Quickie Jett. Need to order props from APC first.
Hey COBRATRAXXAS69, tell me about that dolly under your Ghetto 2, the dead one. THEY ALL DIE!! Don't ask me how I know!!
Here are some pics;
I got some building time in the last few days. Here is whats up.
All sheeting is done.
Modified fin outline. Looks less angular. Leading edge of fins are faired into the wing. The trailing edge of the fins is even with the leading edge of the elevator.
Capped the rear of the fuse. Elevator exit will be in the center. I cut down a Dubro antenna wire exit shroud to fair in the pushrod exit. Don't think it will work, it is too short. Think I will shape one out of balsa. May not be neccessary, but it will look fast!!
Elevator as supplied is 2 1/4"deep. Way more than neccessory for such a fast airframe. It's also an invitation for flutter. I reduced it to 1 5/8" which also reduced the leading edge to 5/16" to match the trailing edge of the filler panels between the fins. The elevator extends beyond the fins trailing edge. Has not yet been beveled or hinged.
Wing trailing edge mods;
2 3/4" of the aileron stock is fixed to the trailing edge of the wing. The ailerons are 7" long. I faired in the area between the ailerons and the fins. This contured fairing is 3/16" balsa sheet capped diagonally with 1/16" balsa. Light and strong. I am not happy with the right aileron fit and may make a new one. The hinge line on the outboard end is not centered to my satisfaction. I sanded too much on one side of the aileron.
A bit of Shrike history. My first Shrike built to plans with a Magnum .15, would snap on hard elevator input [dead plane]. My second Shrike with the piped .32 and wing and fuse mods had 2 degrees of washout and winglets. Never snapped [dead plane. low and fast crowd pleaser, a little too low]. So this Shrike has 2 degrees of washout built in and I am going to ad winglets after the final sand.
Next up is finish sanding, fill low spots and dents, blend the fuse wing joint and the fin fuse joint. final sand and start glassing. Sounds easy huh?
Still need to get some bench time on the Quickie Jett. Need to order props from APC first.
Hey COBRATRAXXAS69, tell me about that dolly under your Ghetto 2, the dead one. THEY ALL DIE!! Don't ask me how I know!!
Here are some pics;
05-10-2007, 01:21 AM
#30
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RE: Jett quickie on a Shrike
I like it. It really does not look like a Shrike anymore. I agree you will not need the big elevator as long as you are not nose heavy. My Shrike likes to snap during hard turns also. your washout or rounding the sharp leading edge, especially towards the wing tip, should help.
I would be interested in the airframe weight if you get a chance to weigh it before engine and radio. The RTF weight would also be good.
I would be interested in the airframe weight if you get a chance to weigh it before engine and radio. The RTF weight would also be good.
05-10-2007, 08:23 AM
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RE: Jett quickie on a Shrike
The plane looks great...... 
One thing of note... the Shrike (in stock form) has a tendency to lose elevator effectiveness at lower speeds. That is one of the reasons that Lanier made the elevator the size included with the design.
Part of the issue here is the airflow (or lack there of) at positive angle of attack - the engine, canopy and fuselage tend to "blank out" clean airflow to the elevator a bit.
One other part of the issue is the plane requires a (generally) forward CG placement for stability, which also reduced the elevator effectiveness at low speed.
Some of the mods you have here will reduce a portion of both problems. Just keep some of this in mind on first-flight day.
One thing of note... the Shrike (in stock form) has a tendency to lose elevator effectiveness at lower speeds. That is one of the reasons that Lanier made the elevator the size included with the design.
Part of the issue here is the airflow (or lack there of) at positive angle of attack - the engine, canopy and fuselage tend to "blank out" clean airflow to the elevator a bit.
One other part of the issue is the plane requires a (generally) forward CG placement for stability, which also reduced the elevator effectiveness at low speed.
Some of the mods you have here will reduce a portion of both problems. Just keep some of this in mind on first-flight day.
05-29-2007, 09:34 PM
#32
RE: Jett quickie on a Shrike
Shrike update!
It's time to do some glass work.
I used Hobbico balsa colored filler for all fillets and ding repair. It costs more than Red Devil filler, but sands so much easier. It is worth every penny!!!
Winglets came out looking sweet!!! Nice molded look.
Bob's note about elevator depth got me wondering if I might have taken off too much material, so I made a new elevator that is two inches deep. Not as big as Lanier designed, but not as short as my first one.
I did end up using the Dubro Antenna exit for the elevator pushrod exit. It's molded in and looks tight!
WEIGH IN!!!
Total airframe weight ready to glass, including ailerons, elevator and ten hinges is 1lb. 4.5oz.
I am using 3/4 oz glass cloth and 20 min. finish cure epoxy. Got a deck of playing cards to squeegee off all the excess epoxy.
Painting will be urethane primer and urethane basecoat/clearcote OEM Honda Goldwing motorcycle colors yet to be determined, we have 22 colors to choose from.
Now the question you have been waiting for. What does glass and paint weigh for a plane this size? Beats me!!! We will see. I will post weight after primer is ready for paint, after final paint and ready to fly.
Tony
It's time to do some glass work.
I used Hobbico balsa colored filler for all fillets and ding repair. It costs more than Red Devil filler, but sands so much easier. It is worth every penny!!!
Winglets came out looking sweet!!! Nice molded look.
Bob's note about elevator depth got me wondering if I might have taken off too much material, so I made a new elevator that is two inches deep. Not as big as Lanier designed, but not as short as my first one.
I did end up using the Dubro Antenna exit for the elevator pushrod exit. It's molded in and looks tight!
WEIGH IN!!!
Total airframe weight ready to glass, including ailerons, elevator and ten hinges is 1lb. 4.5oz.
I am using 3/4 oz glass cloth and 20 min. finish cure epoxy. Got a deck of playing cards to squeegee off all the excess epoxy.
Painting will be urethane primer and urethane basecoat/clearcote OEM Honda Goldwing motorcycle colors yet to be determined, we have 22 colors to choose from.
Now the question you have been waiting for. What does glass and paint weigh for a plane this size? Beats me!!! We will see. I will post weight after primer is ready for paint, after final paint and ready to fly.
Tony
05-30-2007, 10:07 AM
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RE: Jett quickie on a Shrike
Tony,
Nice looking Shrike, can't wait to see it done.. You may want to consider using a finishing resin instead of a quick set epoxy.. The epoxy will be very difficult to lay down and very hard to sand smooth.. I glass and paint most of my quickies and have tried what you are talking about. You have to add something to thin it to make it "spreadable" and sometimes this cause the epoxy to not harden which is a mess to fix.. Don't ask me how I know..
Nice looking Shrike, can't wait to see it done.. You may want to consider using a finishing resin instead of a quick set epoxy.. The epoxy will be very difficult to lay down and very hard to sand smooth.. I glass and paint most of my quickies and have tried what you are talking about. You have to add something to thin it to make it "spreadable" and sometimes this cause the epoxy to not harden which is a mess to fix.. Don't ask me how I know..
05-30-2007, 10:29 AM
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RE: Jett quickie on a Shrike
Ok, I was thinking you were going to try and use just standard 20min epoxy or something.. If you get a chance post the name of it.. I'm always looking for something that cures a little quicker for fiberglass repairs and the like..
05-30-2007, 02:36 PM
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RE: Jett quickie on a Shrike
ORIGINAL: diggs_74
Ok, I was thinking you were going to try and use just standard 20min epoxy or something.. If you get a chance post the name of it.. I'm always looking for something that cures a little quicker for fiberglass repairs and the like..
Ok, I was thinking you were going to try and use just standard 20min epoxy or something.. If you get a chance post the name of it.. I'm always looking for something that cures a little quicker for fiberglass repairs and the like..
05-30-2007, 02:41 PM
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RE: Jett quickie on a Shrike
Same here Mike... Just takes a lot less to get it where I want it viscosity wise.. If I'm not in a time crunch I use EZ Lam and I don't thin that but it takes 24 hours to really cure out.
