RobertV

The three guys you see in the Extreme Flight video all use an aft CG, which is 11 3/4" forward from the wing root trailing edge.
In most cases, the Outlaw will build nose heavy simply due to the natural arrangement of equipment in the swept planform. We put our batteries at the back and try hard to get the CG shifted that way. Yet, as you can see, our planes hand launch fine. Just make sure you are using low rates!

Strykaas

Thanks Robert [sm=thumbup.gif] for this direct feedback

cmircman

My Feedback: (10)

Robert would a nose heavy situation make hand launches unstable or harder?


Rich

M.C

Greetings from the UK!

We're really loving the Outlaws...soooo versatile, and great for a windy day. Also, they really take some serious abuse!

We've been doing plenty of fast stuff - full power blenders, pile drivers, walls, etc...all great fun - so here is s a short vid of some slower 3D:
It's surprisingly stable, though you have to keep on your toes!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTyR1Ugu4c8


Engine: West 36 + Throttle Pipe (from Weston UK), on 10% Coolpower fuel
Prop: APC 8x7 - good for 3D and high speed
Servos: $8 Tower pro 10KG Metal Gear "Digi"...MG995, I think (Cheap and chearful, from eBay!)
1700mAh 4 cell Nicad (near the back)



MC

ArthurD

M.C.,
Tell us a little more about the stand holding the plane for launching. How does the plane attach to it, etc.?

Strykaas

Nice ! Good engine / pipe combo with adequate throtle response.

gofastz

Arthur,
I think the plane is standing on it's own....Like a tripod with the rudder as balance leg....Very cool.....I will attempt this next time I fly mine...... Gofastz[8D]

M.C

Correct!
All we did was place the tip of the fin on a screwdriver handle (the blue thing you see in the video) to tilt the Outlaw forward, and to prevent the rudder from fouling on the ground - nice and simple, and works well.

I've messed up the launch a few times due to poor throttle response (low end needed tuning), so please don't hold me liable!



MC

nsmjim

My Feedback: (52)

Outlaw Help!

Has anyone else had a problem with the needle valve breaking off? Yes, I put the metal piece on the bottom and bent it to 90 degrees. I'm using a TT .36...rephrase that...I was using TT .36[]. At this point I need to replace the entire carb unit as it broke off the needle valve assembly![:@]

Thanks,

Jim

ArthurD

Turn the engine over so the HS NV is upright. Yes, it will work. Or, you could land inverted. Fliping the engine is eaiser.

ArthurD

Look at Post 222 on page 9

Strykaas

I did. I'm very interested in seeing your rudder servo installation. I DON'T want my rudder servo to face the ground, especially when I land on grass full of water [&:][:@]. I had thought about installing it flat on a custom wood mount just to make the servo arm stick out of the hatch. That wouldn't leave much space for the battery as well as for the throttle servo. As your servo and probably batt are closer to cg, I suspect there has been cg issues... Right ? Thanks.

Strykaas

Oh yeah I have another question. I see :
1. you haven't rotated the fuel nipple on the carb, which makes fuel tubing longer than it would have been should you have done it ;

2. you use an unmuffled macs tuned pipe.

3. you don't use a bubbleless tank

My question is the following one : do you have sufficent muffler pressure to make sure the engine will not cough during these high G turns ? I've heard that mousse can muffler provide much more muffler pressure, which sounds logical, but did YOU encounter troubles with your setup ?
Thank you ! [sm=thumbup.gif]

ArthurD

Do you want another photo showing the rudder servo installation? You may be able to figure it out this way......... Put the rudder servo in the equipment bay under the cover, right side of the airplane in the back corner and oriented front to back. Lay it flat with the servo arm sticking up. You'll have to cut out the wall of the bay to let it fit in there. Cut a slot in the top hatch cover for servo arm to go through. The push rod will go just above the fuse and very near (1/4") to the vert stab on it's way to the rudder. Works well, looks neat, low drag and out of the way.

Your question about the tank pressure.............
Yes, I use Mac's open tuned pipes and .36 Webra engines. Mac's PN is 1120 and also I use their 1140. Both work equally well; can't say why since they're obviously different sizes. Both mufflers have their outputs reduced in diameter to 5/16". I cut a piece of alum and roll it into a cylinder to interference-fit it into the stinger. A good source of alum stock is from the part you cut off the Mac's header to make it tuned. BTW, you'll need to cut the header much shorter than stock. Mine are 60 mm measured from the center of the exhaust port to the cut. All this works out to produce 146 mph on 10% PowerMaster fuel and a 9X7 APC prop, measured. Someone on this thread worked that out to be somewhere around 23,000 rpm.

Hope this helps. Let me know how yours works.

ArthurD

No, I do not have trouble with exhaust pressure to the fuel tank. I do, however, restrict the outlet diameter of the tuned pipe. It comes with 3/8 or so, and I slip fit an aluminum reducer to make it 5/16. I realize that sounds counterproductive, but it comes from the man who makes the UltraThrust muffler. He suggested it as a method of changing the UT sport muffler to perform as the racing UT version. I couldn't believe it would work but it did. He was right. Now I do it in all my mufflers for the .36 size Webra (and all others). 146 measured on the Outlaw is enough proof for me. I have four Webra .36's using this set-up and they all have outstanding performance. You can also use the smaller Mac's tuned muffler and the performance is just the same.. The smaller one is their PN 1120 for 3.5 cc engines. The larger one is their PN 1140 for 7.5 cc engines. I have no idea why they both work equally well.

ArthurD

Sorry about the goofy repeated items. We're in the middle of FAY storm here and the power keeps going out.

Strykaas

Thanks Arthur for so much detailed information. I'll keep you updated about mine.

I have noted you have installed the pressure nipple on the largest section of the pipe, it certainly helps for muffler pressure as it's what Mr Macs recommends .... I generally prefer drilling the header than the pipe itself, but I think I have to do it that way this time.

PS : living in such beautiful places (FL) has indeed some drawbacks...

spydermagnet

My Feedback: (2)

Introducing the Outlaw Wing Bag!!



Hi guys,

I am a fellow outlaw enthusiast and I've received a lot of comments on my wing bag so I've decided to build and sell a few of them. They are made with high quality quilted cotton materials and support a 10" or smaller prop. The bag covers all external surfaces.

If you would like to order one of these bags, I will deliver them at the Fly for Tots benefit in Raleigh on Sept 20-21 or I will ship them anywhere (shipping not included)

Price per bag as shown is $85 or add $10 to personalize with your name embroidered into the trailing flaps.

To order please send me an email at: [email protected]

Let me know what you think!

evan-RCU

I think that is very nice!

spydermagnet

My Feedback: (2)

I finished making a wing bag for my outlaw, what do you think?

cmircman

My Feedback: (10)

OOOHHHHHH I want one!

Strykaas

Having it full aluminium would be great for acting as a heat shield !

bob27s

My Feedback: (19)

One of my local club members here has his Jett 35 in the Outlaw. Insain performance. But it did demonstrate something important if considering Jett power, plan to build in a bubble-jett or tetra tank.

Strykaas

My guess is that it was the BSE 35... By the way, why isn't there a Sport Jett .35 ? ANd why the AAC is $25 more than the ABC version ? What are the pros / cons of ABC vs AAC ?

PS : You should have taped it

ArthurD

Strykaas,
I forgot to answer your question about the tank...................
I use the standard tank and wrap it in one layer of the thin white foam packing sheet material. Scotch tape it lengthwise at the seam, and around in 3 places. Space is at a premium, so don't overlap it. Relieve any airframe members that compress the foam. Let it be a little loose, floating. Be careful the rubber stopper or metal tubes do not touch the firewall. A short piece of 1/2" pipe insulation over the snout works well to prevent that. I've never had a problem with bubbles. Std tank gets about six minutes of WFO flight. By that time I'm ready for a break anyway.

And about the fuel nipple on the carb............with the engine flipped to put the NV on top..................
The Webra carb HSNV can be dissambled, rotated and reinstalled to make the nipple angle back towards the firewall. But doing this can be tricky because the valve assy is a press fit and it's easy to screw things up in short order. You really need special tools to do it right. It's not necessary anyway. Fuel line is cheap and it just makes it 1/2" longer to make a larger loop and leave the carb alone. Works perfectly without the risk.

Have you flown it yet? We want a report!