F-20 Club
12-04-2003, 04:58 PM
#127
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A little help PLEASE
OK,DC F-20,Jet 50 combo.
When it gets to the cowl, the instruction pamphlet says to place the cowl on the fuse and drill the holes for the screws that hold the cowl on.I did that.This is done before anything with the engine itself.
I drilled the holes for the cowl,screwed it on and cut the side of the cowl to except the engine.
Slid the engine in the cowl and set it on the mount (very tite fit on the motor mount).That went well til I looked at the front of the nose and the engine thrust washer isn't even close to the center of the hole in the cowl. The thrust washer is near the bottom of the hole.I shimmed the bottom two screws of the mount and the engine deffinitely has up/thrust which will NOT work..Way too much.
There's no play to move the cowl up or down.
The only corny solution which I really don't want to do is to shave the inside of the legs of the motor mount so the engine can be turned slightly sideways on the mount.I would think this is asking for trouble.
I've used everything that came with the ARC.Motor mount and all and it should work till I ran in to this.Just wondering why it's turning out like this?
Can someone help please.At a standstill rite now.
Thanx a lot
Walt
When it gets to the cowl, the instruction pamphlet says to place the cowl on the fuse and drill the holes for the screws that hold the cowl on.I did that.This is done before anything with the engine itself.
I drilled the holes for the cowl,screwed it on and cut the side of the cowl to except the engine.
Slid the engine in the cowl and set it on the mount (very tite fit on the motor mount).That went well til I looked at the front of the nose and the engine thrust washer isn't even close to the center of the hole in the cowl. The thrust washer is near the bottom of the hole.I shimmed the bottom two screws of the mount and the engine deffinitely has up/thrust which will NOT work..Way too much.
There's no play to move the cowl up or down.
The only corny solution which I really don't want to do is to shave the inside of the legs of the motor mount so the engine can be turned slightly sideways on the mount.I would think this is asking for trouble.
I've used everything that came with the ARC.Motor mount and all and it should work till I ran in to this.Just wondering why it's turning out like this?
Can someone help please.At a standstill rite now.
Thanx a lot
Walt
12-04-2003, 05:31 PM
#128
RE: A little help PLEASE
Walt,
I probably would of checked everything first....before I started drilling to mount the cowl permanently. Guess you didn't want to hear that, eh?
If the motor mounts on wood rails, I would shave them to align the motor so there is 1-2 degree of right/down thrust. Then re-install the cowl. If I felt there was a considerable amount taken off to do this, I would then glass them for re-strengthening.
Hope that helps.
It may be a while before I start mine, so this gives me something to look forward to!
lol
Gary
I probably would of checked everything first....before I started drilling to mount the cowl permanently. Guess you didn't want to hear that, eh?
If the motor mounts on wood rails, I would shave them to align the motor so there is 1-2 degree of right/down thrust. Then re-install the cowl. If I felt there was a considerable amount taken off to do this, I would then glass them for re-strengthening.
Hope that helps.
It may be a while before I start mine, so this gives me something to look forward to!
lolGary
12-04-2003, 09:47 PM
#129
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RE: A little help PLEASE
Gary,
the motor mount (plastic) that comes with the kit is one I haven't seen before,but was told that you had to use it because the holes in the firewall are different than any others.The legs of the mount are fat and I had to really shave off a lot on the bottom leg to get the cowl to even slip onto the fuse the way it's suppose to.The cowl fits snug against the fuse.You'll see when you put it together.The cowl actually slips over about 1/8th of an inch over the fuse and theres no room for adjustment.It's made to snug against the fuse and put the screw to it.
I'll be the first to admit that I screw up regularly but nothing I could have done would have solved this problem beforehand. I don't think anyway.[
].
I guess if I'm brave enough I could use another mount and screw it to the firewall with wood screws a little higher.I've been told that it works well, but wood screws?? I don't know.
Thanx a bunch and if you hear of anyone else with this headache send em' my way..
Have a good one...
Walt
the motor mount (plastic) that comes with the kit is one I haven't seen before,but was told that you had to use it because the holes in the firewall are different than any others.The legs of the mount are fat and I had to really shave off a lot on the bottom leg to get the cowl to even slip onto the fuse the way it's suppose to.The cowl fits snug against the fuse.You'll see when you put it together.The cowl actually slips over about 1/8th of an inch over the fuse and theres no room for adjustment.It's made to snug against the fuse and put the screw to it.
I'll be the first to admit that I screw up regularly but nothing I could have done would have solved this problem beforehand. I don't think anyway.[
].I guess if I'm brave enough I could use another mount and screw it to the firewall with wood screws a little higher.I've been told that it works well, but wood screws?? I don't know.
Thanx a bunch and if you hear of anyone else with this headache send em' my way..
Have a good one...
Walt
12-05-2003, 02:46 AM
#130
RE: A little help PLEASE
Walt, Something is wrong here. It should mount A1 perfectly.If not somethings wrong.
I only had trouble getting my ENGINE to mount to the MOTOR MOUNT. BUT the mount should bolt in to the predrilled and blind nutted firewall straight and true. The mount can only go on one way if you have a DCF20 with the small thin black motor mount that comes with the kit.
Ok... so you should have wood blocks already factory glued to the side of the firewall to screw the cowl on. if you align that with the cowl (and it is a tight fit), then your ok there . then check if you bolt the motor mount through the pre drilled holes....that should be ok.
You will probably have to with your JETT .50 dremel out the inside of the motor mount to fit that engine. I did for both of mine...... one a .50 and .60 Jett. My problem was when I mounted it, it was too long for the cowl so I added to the cowl about 1 inch, till it was close to the spinner back plate. It worked out great. Hope this helps! let me know if you need more!
good luck , Kevin
I only had trouble getting my ENGINE to mount to the MOTOR MOUNT. BUT the mount should bolt in to the predrilled and blind nutted firewall straight and true. The mount can only go on one way if you have a DCF20 with the small thin black motor mount that comes with the kit.
Ok... so you should have wood blocks already factory glued to the side of the firewall to screw the cowl on. if you align that with the cowl (and it is a tight fit), then your ok there . then check if you bolt the motor mount through the pre drilled holes....that should be ok.
You will probably have to with your JETT .50 dremel out the inside of the motor mount to fit that engine. I did for both of mine...... one a .50 and .60 Jett. My problem was when I mounted it, it was too long for the cowl so I added to the cowl about 1 inch, till it was close to the spinner back plate. It worked out great. Hope this helps! let me know if you need more!
good luck , Kevin
12-05-2003, 09:53 AM
#131
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RE: A little help PLEASE
Thanx Kevin,
The motor mount on mine DC ARC is not a thin motor mount.The legs are big as a cigar and had to really shave a lot off the bottom leg so the cowl could slip past it to get to the screw holes on the fuse.Had to shave probably half of the bottom leg off to do this. So the mount is not a thin one.
The screw tabs ARE there. Before I did anything I screwed the mount to the firewall and all was well.I put the cowl on and drilled the holes just like they said to do.But when I set the motor on the mount with cowl installed the thrust washers not close to the center of the hole in the cowl.This looks bad as the spinner (bought with kit) is not even with the very front of the cowl.
I'm confused of what you said about adding an inch. Where did you add an inch?? I'm not having that problem as the thrust washer sticks thru the cowl just rite.It's just not centered.But what you did about the inch may help me go another direction to get the problem solved.
I'm not sure I can but if possible I'll put a pix of the mount installed and see if it is the same mount you got with yours.
Thanx a lot..I'm really disappointed at this point.Everything else so far has been a real pleasure to put together but this off center thing is puttin' a damper on things.
I do have a mount that the engines fits rite in..Have you ever used wood screws and screwed the mount to the firewall??It's looking like that's my only way to get it straight.
I cliked on Upload Images and nothing happens so don't know how to get a pix on here..
Thanx again
Walt
The motor mount on mine DC ARC is not a thin motor mount.The legs are big as a cigar and had to really shave a lot off the bottom leg so the cowl could slip past it to get to the screw holes on the fuse.Had to shave probably half of the bottom leg off to do this. So the mount is not a thin one.
The screw tabs ARE there. Before I did anything I screwed the mount to the firewall and all was well.I put the cowl on and drilled the holes just like they said to do.But when I set the motor on the mount with cowl installed the thrust washers not close to the center of the hole in the cowl.This looks bad as the spinner (bought with kit) is not even with the very front of the cowl.
I'm confused of what you said about adding an inch. Where did you add an inch?? I'm not having that problem as the thrust washer sticks thru the cowl just rite.It's just not centered.But what you did about the inch may help me go another direction to get the problem solved.
I'm not sure I can but if possible I'll put a pix of the mount installed and see if it is the same mount you got with yours.
Thanx a lot..I'm really disappointed at this point.Everything else so far has been a real pleasure to put together but this off center thing is puttin' a damper on things.
I do have a mount that the engines fits rite in..Have you ever used wood screws and screwed the mount to the firewall??It's looking like that's my only way to get it straight.
I cliked on Upload Images and nothing happens so don't know how to get a pix on here..
Thanx again
Walt
12-05-2003, 09:57 AM
#132
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RE: A little help PLEASE
Kevin,
Forgot something.
No where in the book does it say anything about thrust degrees. Is this engine straight ahead or am I assuming that it's a couple of degrees up and rite.
Thanx again
Walt
Forgot something.
No where in the book does it say anything about thrust degrees. Is this engine straight ahead or am I assuming that it's a couple of degrees up and rite.
Thanx again
Walt
12-05-2003, 10:03 AM
#133
RE: A little help PLEASE
Q-Ball...
"The legs of the mount are fat and I had to really shave off a lot on the
bottom leg to get the cowl to even slip onto the fuse the way it's suppose to."
"I looked at the front of the nose and the engine thrust washer isn't even
close to the center of the hole in the cowl. The thrust washer is near the
bottom of the hole."
It sounds to me that your firewall was incorrectly drilled for the
mount. If you had to trim the mount to get the cowling on....and
the prop stud ain't in the midddle of the hole....??? [X(]
Pull the mount back off, and draw a thrust line on the firewall. Check
and see if the firewall is mounted 90 deg to the fuse....or if it
has some right thrust built into it. The mount must align with the
centerline....unless the firewall has right thrust in it.
"The legs of the mount are fat and I had to really shave off a lot on the
bottom leg to get the cowl to even slip onto the fuse the way it's suppose to."
"I looked at the front of the nose and the engine thrust washer isn't even
close to the center of the hole in the cowl. The thrust washer is near the
bottom of the hole."
It sounds to me that your firewall was incorrectly drilled for the
mount. If you had to trim the mount to get the cowling on....and
the prop stud ain't in the midddle of the hole....??? [X(]
Pull the mount back off, and draw a thrust line on the firewall. Check
and see if the firewall is mounted 90 deg to the fuse....or if it
has some right thrust built into it. The mount must align with the
centerline....unless the firewall has right thrust in it.
12-05-2003, 10:06 AM
#134
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RE: A little help PLEASE
NOw this thing is telling me that I've got somebody blocked..Hell,I ain't blocked anybody.I need all the help I can get.
Now what do I do...Dang
Walt
Now what do I do...Dang
Walt
12-05-2003, 02:58 PM
#135
RE: A little help PLEASE
Forget the wood screws!..and no I have NO up or side thrust thrown in!.The inch I added was to the front of the cowling. But thats because the engine stuck out more then usual. Try putting your engine toward the front of the engine mount and it should be dead center of the cowl. you are using a Jett .50? and mounting it side ways?
Try again to upload a pic. I'd like to see your motor mount! Kevin
ps the front should be like this in the pic
Try again to upload a pic. I'd like to see your motor mount! Kevin
ps the front should be like this in the pic
12-05-2003, 04:31 PM
#136
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RE: A little help PLEASE
[] I got an idea...I think I know what happened. I haven't tried it yet,but even tho the cowl looks the same top and bottom I bet theres a little difference in the top and bottom slant and I bet I put the cowl on up side down..I thought the flatter side of the cowl would go on the bottom.Wrong..
Is there a top and bottom???
I'm fixin to go out to the shop and see what happens.I hope that this IS the problem. I'll turn the cowl over and cut the cut/out for the engine and then I can at least mount the engine on the mount and get the project going again. I can always order another cowl and hope that's it's the same exact size as this one.
I'll get back and let yall know how dumb I am..
Later Walt
] I got an idea...I think I know what happened. I haven't tried it yet,but even tho the cowl looks the same top and bottom I bet theres a little difference in the top and bottom slant and I bet I put the cowl on up side down..I thought the flatter side of the cowl would go on the bottom.Wrong..Is there a top and bottom???
I'm fixin to go out to the shop and see what happens.I hope that this IS the problem. I'll turn the cowl over and cut the cut/out for the engine and then I can at least mount the engine on the mount and get the project going again. I can always order another cowl and hope that's it's the same exact size as this one.
I'll get back and let yall know how dumb I am..
Later Walt
12-05-2003, 08:37 PM
#137
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RE: A little help PLEASE
OK,Guys....My fault..I guess I was in too big a hurry....Cowl is up/side down.
It looks close but it ain't the same.I'm going to go ahead and have a cowl with two open sides and order another one,if they have them.
Couple of questions while yall are here.
I'm thinking of putting a fueler on the side of the fuse next to the fuel tank.I'll put the needle valve about the same height on the other side of the fuel tank with the needle sticking thru the side of the fuse. The way Dub Jet talks you can put the needle valve anywhere as long as it's somewhat inline with the carb and tank. He said a foot and a half would be safe...Only thing,it would take longer to prime and get fuel to the carb but no other problems.
Does this sound reasonable and did yall do anything in this category.
I had to remove the needle assembly from the backplate so the engine could scoot back further and if I mount it on the firewall it would be a problem refueling.
Any comments before I mess up again???
thanx walt
It looks close but it ain't the same.I'm going to go ahead and have a cowl with two open sides and order another one,if they have them.
Couple of questions while yall are here.
I'm thinking of putting a fueler on the side of the fuse next to the fuel tank.I'll put the needle valve about the same height on the other side of the fuel tank with the needle sticking thru the side of the fuse. The way Dub Jet talks you can put the needle valve anywhere as long as it's somewhat inline with the carb and tank. He said a foot and a half would be safe...Only thing,it would take longer to prime and get fuel to the carb but no other problems.
Does this sound reasonable and did yall do anything in this category.
I had to remove the needle assembly from the backplate so the engine could scoot back further and if I mount it on the firewall it would be a problem refueling.
Any comments before I mess up again???
thanx walt
12-05-2003, 08:52 PM
#138
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RE: A little help PLEASE
I need a little help also. I am starting my DC F-20 and am on step 12. My question is regarding the note about the elevator torque rod bearing needing to be slotted in the stab so the bearing is on the outside of the fuse. My questions are 1-what is the bearing? The little black plastic piece? and 2-please explain where to drill as I read this as meaning there will be things outside the fuse, but I know that is not right as I have not seen and pics with control rods outside the fuse. If anyone can help, please explain this. Any pics would be great also.
12-06-2003, 02:13 AM
#139
RE: A little help PLEASE
Walt,
The fueler might be a good idea because there isnt alot of room to pull the line off to fuel!
Funny I ended up losing my canopies , so now I have two canopies one with a cockpit all detailed out and a solid balck one! also have a black cowl and a customed one! So keep your cowl and fix it.. you never know... they like to crack alot!
DEAN: I think I said something earlier about what your refering to about the hinge type slotted control horn for the elevator.
You cut out the notches on the elevator for the "hinge type" elevator rod linkage, then after you glue the stab on, slide the elevator rod (with the hinge tab on the outside) through the crack between the fuse and elevator stab ( you will have to make a notch but you'll see where it needs to be cut as you try to slip one end of the rod through). glue in and done! the rod sticks up in the little back access box... sucks you can't mount the servo there but......! Hope that helps! K
The fueler might be a good idea because there isnt alot of room to pull the line off to fuel!
Funny I ended up losing my canopies , so now I have two canopies one with a cockpit all detailed out and a solid balck one! also have a black cowl and a customed one! So keep your cowl and fix it.. you never know... they like to crack alot!
DEAN: I think I said something earlier about what your refering to about the hinge type slotted control horn for the elevator.
You cut out the notches on the elevator for the "hinge type" elevator rod linkage, then after you glue the stab on, slide the elevator rod (with the hinge tab on the outside) through the crack between the fuse and elevator stab ( you will have to make a notch but you'll see where it needs to be cut as you try to slip one end of the rod through). glue in and done! the rod sticks up in the little back access box... sucks you can't mount the servo there but......! Hope that helps! K
12-06-2003, 08:38 AM
#140
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Thanx Kevin
Thanx for the info. It would be a lot easier to put a fueler for sure. Like I said the needle valve assembly will be on the other side of the fuse (oppisite side from the fueler with the needle sticking out the side of the fuse. This would put the needle valve sticking out the side just over the fake air intake. I was concerned about how much room I have to play. I know you have to keep them in a somewhat straight line between the carb and tank.
Wondering just how "in line" they have to be. I should be able to get them in a somewhat straight line,maybe a little off but close.I just don't want to get this thing completed and find that I have a fuel problem.I was just relying on what Dub told me about being able to put the needle anywhere as long as it's in a line.
the only other thing is that I'm assuming that where I'll put the fueler is 1/8 inch thick fuse side.If the wood is too thick,the fueler threads won't go all the way thru so the threads are sticking out.I don't have a caliper to measure the thickness of where I'll put it. Trail and error I guess. I'm using the Great Planes 4160 fueler (Easy Fueler).The litle titty shaped thing.
I've seen this question before of what Dean ask. I assume that at the very rear of the stab slot in the fuse that you have to dremal the slot maybe a quarter of an inch longer.Maybe not that much but a little to slip the wire thru.This is what I understand anyway.
Thanx for the info and I'm sure I'll be back.
Have a good one.
Walt
Wondering just how "in line" they have to be. I should be able to get them in a somewhat straight line,maybe a little off but close.I just don't want to get this thing completed and find that I have a fuel problem.I was just relying on what Dub told me about being able to put the needle anywhere as long as it's in a line.
the only other thing is that I'm assuming that where I'll put the fueler is 1/8 inch thick fuse side.If the wood is too thick,the fueler threads won't go all the way thru so the threads are sticking out.I don't have a caliper to measure the thickness of where I'll put it. Trail and error I guess. I'm using the Great Planes 4160 fueler (Easy Fueler).The litle titty shaped thing.
I've seen this question before of what Dean ask. I assume that at the very rear of the stab slot in the fuse that you have to dremal the slot maybe a quarter of an inch longer.Maybe not that much but a little to slip the wire thru.This is what I understand anyway.
Thanx for the info and I'm sure I'll be back.
Have a good one.
Walt
12-16-2003, 11:15 PM
#144
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RE: Silver F20
Looks Great Nik,
I was going to cover mine in silver but with these grey days down here and my eyes I was wondering if I'd lose it. Came close to loosing an Astro Hog a couple of times on a grey day and it was covered in a cream color.
Let us know how well it shows up.I'd still like to cover something in silver.Always looks kinda like GRRRRRRR!
Nice Job
Walt
I was going to cover mine in silver but with these grey days down here and my eyes I was wondering if I'd lose it. Came close to loosing an Astro Hog a couple of times on a grey day and it was covered in a cream color.
Let us know how well it shows up.I'd still like to cover something in silver.Always looks kinda like GRRRRRRR!
Nice Job
Walt
12-19-2003, 08:57 AM
#145
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Question here/Torque Rods
OK,DC F-20
The plane is put together and covered and I noticed something before I glue the torque rods in the stab and elevators.
In step 12 where it says NOTE. I did just like the directions.The bearing is on the outside of the fuse.Perfect.The only thing is that the bearing is in the center of the epoxy area of the elevator so this leaves very little epoxying area to the elevator.If the bearing was on the inside of the fuse there would be a lot of glueing area where you glue the rod to the elevator even tho you probably would not be able to slip the stab in the fuse. If done by the plans is this going to be enough glue area of the rod to the elevator?? There's not much attaching (epoxying) area there with the bearing where it is.
What did yall do??? And does this work the way they said to do it?? It's done that way but want to check with yall fore I epoxy it in.
How many hinges did yall use on the elevators?? I have the torque rods and two hinges on each side and wondering if I should put another hinge on both sides.Maybe put another hinge near the the torque rod.Like 1 1/2 inches away from where the rod is glued in the elevator.....
Thanx a bunch
Walt
The plane is put together and covered and I noticed something before I glue the torque rods in the stab and elevators.
In step 12 where it says NOTE. I did just like the directions.The bearing is on the outside of the fuse.Perfect.The only thing is that the bearing is in the center of the epoxy area of the elevator so this leaves very little epoxying area to the elevator.If the bearing was on the inside of the fuse there would be a lot of glueing area where you glue the rod to the elevator even tho you probably would not be able to slip the stab in the fuse. If done by the plans is this going to be enough glue area of the rod to the elevator?? There's not much attaching (epoxying) area there with the bearing where it is.
What did yall do??? And does this work the way they said to do it?? It's done that way but want to check with yall fore I epoxy it in.
How many hinges did yall use on the elevators?? I have the torque rods and two hinges on each side and wondering if I should put another hinge on both sides.Maybe put another hinge near the the torque rod.Like 1 1/2 inches away from where the rod is glued in the elevator.....
Thanx a bunch
Walt
12-23-2003, 08:39 PM
#146
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Help! Painting Glass Cowl
Direct Connections does not get their cowls from Japan anymore.Don't know where they come from but they have no color to them and you can see the glass strings.It seems to be heavy duty.
Question is what do I do to paint it as far as preparation and painting.
I have Pacta Primer Surfacer and Black LustreCoat both from the LHS.
OK,what next??
Thanx Walt
Question is what do I do to paint it as far as preparation and painting.
I have Pacta Primer Surfacer and Black LustreCoat both from the LHS.
OK,what next??
Thanx Walt
12-23-2003, 09:42 PM
#147
RE: Question here/Torque Rods
ORIGINAL: Q-Ball
How many hinges did yall use on the elevators?? I have the torque
rods and two hinges on each side and wondering if I should put another
hinge on both sides.Maybe put another hinge near the the torque rod.
Like 1 1/2 inches away from where the rod is glued in the elevator.....
Thanx a bunch
Walt
How many hinges did yall use on the elevators?? I have the torque
rods and two hinges on each side and wondering if I should put another
hinge on both sides.Maybe put another hinge near the the torque rod.
Like 1 1/2 inches away from where the rod is glued in the elevator.....
Thanx a bunch
Walt
I'll probably shorten up my ailerons a bit as well, to avoid flutter. Seal
all the hinged surfaces, both sides with the same color Mono-cote, or
with clear.
Dave.
12-24-2003, 12:06 AM
#148
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RE: Question here/Torque Rods
Maybe there's not as much hinge covering material as I think, but when you cover a hinge gap,say the top of the elevator,You measure how much and iron it on with the elevator in the down position.What keeps the hinge covering from sticking up when the elevator is in the neutral position. Does the covering always fold inside the hinge gap??
Just curious..
I did put three hinges plus the torque rod on each elevator.Looks like enough,but we'll see.
Thanx Dave
Have a happy one.
Walt
Just curious..
I did put three hinges plus the torque rod on each elevator.Looks like enough,but we'll see.
Thanx Dave
Have a happy one.
Walt
12-24-2003, 12:17 AM
#149
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RE: Question here/Torque Rods
Nik: I just realized you performed a "structural integrity test" on your "20".... Glad she is okay- Just the other day I was helping a gentleman with his trainer and sure enough the ailerons were reversed-
I also "Re-Programmed" a 9C for a buddy who was flying a 25% CAP with reversed ailerons (He is damn good and was able to fly about 2 minutes with them bass-ackwards!) he took off and started towards the parking lot (bad thing-) then did a snap-roll and we were wondering why he was flying so freaky... He said "I think my ailerons are backwards" then folks in the pits started yelling- "anyone know how to program a 9C?" At one point I had mixed the ailerons off completely- he had flaperons and all sorts of weird mixing... I finally got it but set properly but we were both sweating with all the people watching [X(]
Keep us posted on the "20"
Just the other day I was helping a gentleman with his trainer and sure enough the ailerons were reversed- I also "Re-Programmed" a 9C for a buddy who was flying a 25% CAP with reversed ailerons (He is damn good and was able to fly about 2 minutes with them bass-ackwards!) he took off and started towards the parking lot (bad thing-) then did a snap-roll and we were wondering why he was flying so freaky... He said "I think my ailerons are backwards" then folks in the pits started yelling- "anyone know how to program a 9C?" At one point I had mixed the ailerons off completely- he had flaperons and all sorts of weird mixing... I finally got it but set properly but we were both sweating with all the people watching [X(]
Keep us posted on the "20"
12-24-2003, 01:20 AM
#150
RE: Question here/Torque Rods
Walt....
1. Cut a 3/4" strip, fold it in half with a sharp fold, sticky side out.
2. Use a full deflection of the part, hold the crease down tight
in the center.
3. Same thing on the other side. The Mono-cote becomes part
of the hinge. So you end up with 3 layers of hinge....2 covering....
(one on each side of the part) and the CA hinges.
Very strong...and it seals the gap, to prevent flutter.
Dave.
1. Cut a 3/4" strip, fold it in half with a sharp fold, sticky side out.
2. Use a full deflection of the part, hold the crease down tight
in the center.
3. Same thing on the other side. The Mono-cote becomes part
of the hinge. So you end up with 3 layers of hinge....2 covering....
(one on each side of the part) and the CA hinges.
Very strong...and it seals the gap, to prevent flutter.
Dave.