krossk

My Feedback: (27)

Nah - I'm honored that there was enough phillosophical value in being an official hat-wearing smart-arse to be quoted in such a prestigious manor.[sm=bananahead.gif][sm=biggrin.gif][sm=bananahead.gif]

farminred

I have seen many people on this thread posting graphic pictures of covering jobs for this build. I was wondering where the people were getting the images of the planes to work on the cover scheme. is there some where on the web one can find this or does some one have it avalible to e-mail. any help would be great. thanks

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Minnflyer is guy with the answer you are looking for. I believe they have a program in their computers called photo shop, but Minn can explain it to you, as I am a computer moron.[&:]

Merry Christmas!!


Mark

farminred

That sounds good I also have photo shop so hopfully minnflyer will see this post. Thank you

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Actually, I was the one who posted the original 3-view drawing for the design contest. It was posted back in post #31 of this thread. I'll repost it for you here so you don't have to go back through the thread.

Ken

farminred

Hey thanks alot RCken I am building my very first plane which is an lt-40 kit. I am a bit behind you in your build but this thread has been a life saver. I really enjoy this thread, it has given me a lot of knowlage. thanks again

bruce88123

Some of the kit mfg put 3-views in the manuals that can be scanned into the computer for this purpose. This may help on future builds.

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

Sorry Ken. Wasn't trying to steal your thunder & give it to Minn, I thought it was the actual colored graphics that he wanted to know how to do, my mistake.[X(] I'll go sit back in my corner now Merry Christmas!!


Mark

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

elenasgrumpy,
Heck no, it didn't bother me at all. It takes a lot more than that to bother me.

Ken

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

LOl. Good I'm glad to hear it[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]


Mark

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I do need to apologize to all of you out there that are following this thread. I spent last weekend finishing up the christmas shopping that I needed to do, so I didn't have much time to spend here. But the good news is that all of my shopping is finished and I don't have to go out tomorrow. Which is good, because I can't even imagine what kind of madhouse it's going to be at the stores tomorrow!! Anyway, let's get back to the build.

If you are following along with the instructions in the manual the next step is actually to put the pushrod tubes in place, but I'm going to build the horizontal and vertical stabilizers next instead.

I'm going to build the horizontal stabilizer first, but before that I want to talk about a couple of things first. The biggest of which is I want to repeat the statement “Measure twice, cut once.� This becomes even more important here because the biggest part of these next two steps are built from plain sticks of balsa, and cutting the lengths needed will be especially important. Up to this point in this build the majority of parts were pre-cut parts and we just had to sand the edges a little bit, but now we are working with balsa sticks to build these next two assemblies. Cutting the proper lengths of the parts is critical in getting these assemblies built well. It wouldn't hurt to practice measuring and cutting a few times before you start to cut “for real�. When you are cutting and building you want the parts to fit with a “wood to wood� joint. Gaps between the parts are very bad. Yes, medium and thick CA advertise that they are “gap filling�. While this may be true and they will fill that gap, the joint will be weakened. For the strongest joint you want a tight wood to wood fit. The next thing to think about when cutting these parts is getting a good straight cut. If you look at picture #2 you can see that I use a miter box for making my cuts. These are invaluable for building kits because they make for very straight cuts. You almost can't go wrong using a miter box. The slots in the miter box ensure that you razor is kept perpendicular when it's cutting the sticks. The last thing that I want to comment on is marking where you make your cuts. This is even more important than making accurate cuts because you can't cut accurately if the part isn't marked properly. I usually use one of two different ways of marking where I will cut. One is to use a pencil to mark the cut, and the other is to use a razor blade to mark my wood. Picture #3 shows using a pencil. Place the wood in the proper position on the plans, and then mark with a pencil where to cut. Make sure you mark both sides of the stick so that you get the correct angle to cut the wood at. Picture #4 shows using a razor blade. Once again, lay the wood in place over the plans, and then use the razor blade to lightly score the wood where the cut will be made. These 2 methods have served my well, but you'll need to use a method that you feel comfortable with. Just make sure that it's giving you accurate cuts.


Ok, let's get on to the building now. For these two assemblies we will be building directly on the plans. Go ahead and place the planes for the horizontal stabilizer on your work surface and cover it to protect the plans. Once the plan is in place we can start building. For the horizontal stabilizer we will use 5/16�x1/2�x36� sticks to cut the leading edge, trailing edge, and the 2 sides of the stabilizer. When I am building and assembly like this I like to get the parts cut for the assembly and lay it out before I start using glue to put the parts together. I like to do it this way because I can make any final adjustments on the fit of the parts before they are secured together. Start by cutting the leading edge of the stabilizer. Pin or place the cut leading edge pieces in place on the plans (pictures #5 and #6). After the leading edge is in place put in the leading edge joiner (pictures #7 and #8). With the leading edge joiner in place measure and cut the two sides of the stabilizer (pictures #9, #10, and #11). Picture #12 shows the parts we have cut so far in place. You can also see the center section of the stabilizer sitting in place.

As I said above, I prefer to wait before I start applying glue. So up to this point I haven't glued any parts yet, I am merely laying them in place.

Since I've run out of room for pictures I'm going to here and continue in the the next post.

Pictures
1. Plans for the horizontal stabilizer in place on the building board.
2. Using a miter box to make a straight cut.
3. Using a pencil to mark where to make cuts.
4. Using a single edge razor blade to mark where to cut.
5. Right side leading edge cut and in place.
6. Both leading edges in place.
7. Center leading edge joiner in place.
8. Center leading edge in place.
9. Marking for cutting the left side of the stablizer.
10. Left side of the stabilizer cut and in place.
11. Right side stabilizer cut and in place.
12. Center section of the stabilizer in place.

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I do need to apologize to all of you out there that are following this thread. I spent last weekend finishing up the christmas shopping that I needed to do, so I didn't have much time to spend here. But the good news is that all of my shopping is finished and I don't have to go out tomorrow. Which is good, because I can't even imagine what kind of madhouse it's going to be at the stores tomorrow!! Anyway, let's get back to the build.

If you are following along with the instructions in the manual the next step is actually to put the pushrod tubes in place, but I'm going to build the horizontal and vertical stabilizers next instead.

I'm going to build the horizontal stabilizer first, but before that I want to talk about a couple of things first. The biggest of which is I want to repeat the statement “Measure twice, cut once.� This becomes even more important here because the biggest part of these next two steps are built from plain sticks of balsa, and cutting the lengths needed will be especially important. Up to this point in this build the majority of parts were pre-cut parts and we just had to sand the edges a little bit, but now we are working with balsa sticks to build these next two assemblies. Cutting the proper lengths of the parts is critical in getting these assemblies built well. It wouldn't hurt to practice measuring and cutting a few times before you start to cut “for real�. When you are cutting and building you want the parts to fit with a “wood to wood� joint. Gaps between the parts are very bad. Yes, medium and thick CA advertise that they are “gap filling�. While this may be true and they will fill that gap, the joint will be weakened. For the strongest joint you want a tight wood to wood fit. The next thing to think about when cutting these parts is getting a good straight cut. If you look at picture #2 you can see that I use a miter box for making my cuts. These are invaluable for building kits because they make for very straight cuts. You almost can't go wrong using a miter box. The slots in the miter box ensure that you razor is kept perpendicular when it's cutting the sticks. The last thing that I want to comment on is marking where you make your cuts. This is even more important than making accurate cuts because you can't cut accurately if the part isn't marked properly. I usually use one of two different ways of marking where I will cut. One is to use a pencil to mark the cut, and the other is to use a razor blade to mark my wood. Picture #3 shows using a pencil. Place the wood in the proper position on the plans, and then mark with a pencil where to cut. Make sure you mark both sides of the stick so that you get the correct angle to cut the wood at. Picture #4 shows using a razor blade. Once again, lay the wood in place over the plans, and then use the razor blade to lightly score the wood where the cut will be made. These 2 methods have served my well, but you'll need to use a method that you feel comfortable with. Just make sure that it's giving you accurate cuts.


Ok, let's get on to the building now. For these two assemblies we will be building directly on the plans. Go ahead and place the planes for the horizontal stabilizer on your work surface and cover it to protect the plans. Once the plan is in place we can start building. For the horizontal stabilizer we will use 5/16�x1/2�x36� sticks to cut the leading edge, trailing edge, and the 2 sides of the stabilizer. When I am building and assembly like this I like to get the parts cut for the assembly and lay it out before I start using glue to put the parts together. I like to do it this way because I can make any final adjustments on the fit of the parts before they are secured together. Start by cutting the leading edge of the stabilizer. Pin or place the cut leading edge pieces in place on the plans (pictures #5 and #6). After the leading edge is in place put in the leading edge joiner (pictures #7 and #8). With the leading edge joiner in place measure and cut the two sides of the stabilizer (pictures #9, #10, and #11). Picture #12 shows the parts we have cut so far in place. You can also see the center section of the stabilizer sitting in place.

As I said above, I prefer to wait before I start applying glue. So up to this point I haven't glued any parts yet, I am merely laying them in place.

Since I've run out of room for pictures I'm going to here and continue in the the next post.

Pictures
1. Plans for the horizontal stabilizer in place on the building board.
2. Using a miter box to make a straight cut.
3. Using a pencil to mark where to make cuts.
4. Using a single edge razor blade to mark where to cut.
5. Right side leading edge cut and in place.
6. Both leading edges in place.
7. Center leading edge joiner in place.
8. Center leading edge in place.
9. Marking for cutting the left side of the stablizer.
10. Left side of the stabilizer cut and in place.
11. Right side stabilizer cut and in place.
12. Center section of the stabilizer in place.

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

To continue on with the horizontal stabilizer.

The next part to shape and fit into place is the center section of the stabilizer (picture #1). I wasn't happy with the fit of this piece of wood. If you look at picture #2 you can see that the wood is quite a bit shorter than what the plans indicate. At this point I have 2 choices of how I can proceed with this problem. I can continue to build using the existing size of the center section. This would cause the entire stabilizer section to be a bit shorter than called for. While this will not cause any major problems with the rest of the build, and the finished plane will still fly with no problems, I don't like to build this way. So my second choice is to resize the part so it fits the plans. Since this part was just a bit short there is no need to cut a new part, as this can be fixed fairly easily. To fix this I glued a piece of scrap wood to the end of the center section (picture #3). In picture #4 you can see the part being sanded to the proper length. Once you have the center section sanded to the proper length (picture #5) go ahead and place it into the assembly. Next cut the trailing edge from the 5/16�x1/2� stock, and put into place on the plans (somehow I forgot to take a picture of this, but you can see the tailing edge in place in following pictures). Now that we have the general shape of the stabilizer laid out, we need to cut and place the cross braces. The cross braces are cut out of 5/16�x5/16� square balsa. When cutting the cross braces take extra care to get a good tight fit, as these are what gives the stabilizer it's strength. If the joints for these are weak then the entire stabilizer will be weak. I'm not going to go through explaining the measuring and cutting of each brace, but rather will just post some pictures of the progress. You get the general idea of what needs to happen. Pictures #6, #7, and #8 show the left side braces being cut and put in place. Pictures #9, #10, #11, and #12 show the right side being done.

When you are cutting and fitting the cross braces don't worry if you get one cut incorrectly. You will notice that the braces are all different lengths, so if you cut one wrong you can reuse the wood for a shorter piece, and then you can recut the piece you messed up on.

Up to now we still haven't used any glue on the stabilizer assembly. Up to this point we are dry fitting everything. Now is the time to recheck the fit of all joints. So take a few minutes to go back over the whole stabilizer to make sure everything is ready to be glued.

Once again, I'm out of picture space. So I'll stop here and continue in the next post.


Pictures
1. Placing the stabilizer center section.
2. The stabilizer center section is too short.
3. Adding scrap wood to the center section.
4. Sanding the center section to the proper lenth.
5. Center section is proper length and placed onto the plans.
6. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the left side of the stabilizer.
7. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the left side of the stabilizer.
8. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the left side of the stabilizer.
9. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the right side of the stabilizer.
10. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the right side of the stabilizer.
11. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the right side of the stabilizer.
12. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the right side of the stabilizer.

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

To continue on with the horizontal stabilizer.

The next part to shape and fit into place is the center section of the stabilizer (picture #1). I wasn't happy with the fit of this piece of wood. If you look at picture #2 you can see that the wood is quite a bit shorter than what the plans indicate. At this point I have 2 choices of how I can proceed with this problem. I can continue to build using the existing size of the center section. This would cause the entire stabilizer section to be a bit shorter than called for. While this will not cause any major problems with the rest of the build, and the finished plane will still fly with no problems, I don't like to build this way. So my second choice is to resize the part so it fits the plans. Since this part was just a bit short there is no need to cut a new part, as this can be fixed fairly easily. To fix this I glued a piece of scrap wood to the end of the center section (picture #3). In picture #4 you can see the part being sanded to the proper length. Once you have the center section sanded to the proper length (picture #5) go ahead and place it into the assembly. Next cut the trailing edge from the 5/16�x1/2� stock, and put into place on the plans (somehow I forgot to take a picture of this, but you can see the tailing edge in place in following pictures). Now that we have the general shape of the stabilizer laid out, we need to cut and place the cross braces. The cross braces are cut out of 5/16�x5/16� square balsa. When cutting the cross braces take extra care to get a good tight fit, as these are what gives the stabilizer it's strength. If the joints for these are weak then the entire stabilizer will be weak. I'm not going to go through explaining the measuring and cutting of each brace, but rather will just post some pictures of the progress. You get the general idea of what needs to happen. Pictures #6, #7, and #8 show the left side braces being cut and put in place. Pictures #9, #10, #11, and #12 show the right side being done.

When you are cutting and fitting the cross braces don't worry if you get one cut incorrectly. You will notice that the braces are all different lengths, so if you cut one wrong you can reuse the wood for a shorter piece, and then you can recut the piece you messed up on.

Up to now we still haven't used any glue on the stabilizer assembly. Up to this point we are dry fitting everything. Now is the time to recheck the fit of all joints. So take a few minutes to go back over the whole stabilizer to make sure everything is ready to be glued.

Once again, I'm out of picture space. So I'll stop here and continue in the next post.


Pictures
1. Placing the stabilizer center section.
2. The stabilizer center section is too short.
3. Adding scrap wood to the center section.
4. Sanding the center section to the proper lenth.
5. Center section is proper length and placed onto the plans.
6. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the left side of the stabilizer.
7. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the left side of the stabilizer.
8. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the left side of the stabilizer.
9. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the right side of the stabilizer.
10. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the right side of the stabilizer.
11. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the right side of the stabilizer.
12. Measuring, cutting, and placing the cross braces on the right side of the stabilizer.

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

To continue on with the horizontal stabilizer.

Up to now you should have the horizontal stabilizer laid out on your building board, but there shouldn't be any pieced glued together. If you are using CA you can easily start to glue the assembly together. Wick the thin CA into each joint of the stabilizer. If you are using wood glue like I am you'll need to take the parts out to apply glue to them. But this isn't really a big deal. Just do one part at a time and then replace it back on the building board. It doesn't take all that long to do. I had everything glued up and set in about 5-10 minutes work. I'm not going to go into a lot of detail about this because it's a pretty simple step here. Pictures #1-5 show how I secured the work area while the glue dried. Pictures #6, #7, and #8 show the horizontal stabilizer completed when it was removed from the building board.

The next step will be to build the vertical fin.

Pictures
1. Horizontal stabilizer on the building board.
2. Horizontal stabilizer on the building board.
3.Horizontal stabilizer on the building board.
4.Horizontal stabilizer on the building board.
5. Horizontal stabilizer on the building board.
6. Completed horizontal stabilizer.
7. Completed horizontal stabilizer.
8. Completed horizontal stabilizer.


Until next time

Ken

RC-Captain

Im curious , what are you planning on building next ?

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

RC-FIEND,
Oh trust me, I have a pretty good list of waiting projects. But I'm probably going to build 2 Ultra Sport 1000's. I had originally planned on building one for myself, but I've picked up a "build for hire" that wants me to build an Ultra Sport 1000 for them. Hey, I can't ignore a build for money because that will finance the Zenoah G-38 motor I want to get for the Dynaflite Super Decathlon I picked up at a swap meet. The last time I talked to him he will be getting the kit to me after the first of the year. I have a Great Planes 40 size Ultimate that's ready to be sanded and covered that I may finish up this winter. I've also got a Balsa USA Thunderbug that I've blown up from 40 to 60 size that I hope to have in the air before next summer. And if I still have time I have a Goldberg Extra 300 that's framed up that I would like to finish. I just picked up an OS 91 FX that would be great on that plane, so I may try to finish that up.

To be totally honest with you, I really don't have much left to do this winter!!! Just kidding of course. Who knows, maybe I'll have something "really cool" pop up that will jump to the head of the line on the building table.

When I decided to do this build thread I had no idea how much work was involved. It's one thing to build a plane, but to build one and have to plan and take pictures of the entire build really eats up the time. I probably could have had this build finished up by now if it wasn't for documenting it. Don't get me wrong, I'm enjoying every bit of this build (and glad that I can help out others out there), but I had no clue of how much extra time it was going to take. But it's really a labor of love for me, so I definitely don't mind one bit.

Ken

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

A bigger workshop for all of the projects he is gonna get from this build

Merry Christmas all

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Bubba,
I'm hoping that Santa will bring me a bigger shop. But I doubt he can fit that in his bag. We're planning on adding on to the house next summer, and you can bet you bottom dollar that I bigger shop is on the list to be built. It's actually my wife that wants me to build a bigger shop. Right now I use the spare bedroom for my shop/office. She wants to get the spare bedroom back for when family visits. I don't care why, I just know that I'm gonna get a new shop!!!

Ken

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

That's funny Ken, I just recently got kicked out from my plane assembly area too, I say assembly area cause I'm still ARF'n not really building, anyway she decided she wanted her kitchen table back, imagine that! So she bought me a nice big table, heater, & even a nice litte stereo box for the garage & helped me clean it all out to make room for all my planes. I got real lucky in the wife department. Lookin good on the build. I hope you get your ne Hangar! Merry Christmas!!!


Mark

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Elanasgrumpy,
Oh, don't get me wrong, I get 110% support from my wife for my hobby. I'm not getting kicked out of the room until I have another area to move into. Besides, I want to move anyway because my new shop is going to be huge!! 25'x15' But like I said, she supports me 110%. She encourages me to get out to field and fly as often as I want to. Heck she even helps me in the business that I started to help finance my hobby!!!! She's one great lady, and I'm extremely luck to have her.

Ken

elenasgrumpy

My Feedback: (4)

That's great to hear Ken, I'm glad for you, but are you sure 15'x25' is going to be enough?? I think you better call tuff-shed & tell em you want 2 of there biggest installed end to end! lol


Mark


P.S. It is nice to have a Lady that understands our need for toys, isn't it?

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

elenasgrumpy,
It will be plenty big. It's going to be right beside the garage, so I plan on putting all the bigger power tools in the garage (scroll saw, sander, drill press, etc...). Plus there will be storage in the attic and the garage, so that size is going to be actual room I have to devote to building areas.

Ken

RC-Captain

RC-Ken I am only asking because I can tell you really got a handle on things in the build department. The Ultimate Pipe sounds nice , do you remeber much about building yours ? enough for me to question you while I attempt to put one together? If you are to busy I understand , but all help will be apreciated.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

RC-FIEND,
My Ultimate has been sitting waiting to be sanded for about a year now. Somehow I always manage to stall out at the sanding part. Yes, I really don't like sanding a plane!!! But to answer your question, you are more than welcome to ask any questions. That's why I'm here in the beginners forum, to try and be some help when I can. So ask away!!!!

Ken