Have the same issue with the Yak's also. I cracked mine today during turning on the runaway []

Maybe the Yak wheelpants can be replaced by the Extra wheelpants assuming they are bigger than the Yaks (& match colors. minet are white ). Tom pls let me know if thats possible.

Well I made a good dent in finishing the tail section off today. To start I had to do a little work to determine where to drill the new holes in the control horns that go on the rudder tiller bolt. I discovered that the pilot hole wasn’t drilled perpendicular to the centerline of the plane. If I had just drilled the holes in the horns an even distance from the tiller bolt the right horn hole would have been 2mm rearward of the hinge line. This would have caused a bind in the rudder. I could have gone to the trouble of filling the hole, waiting for epoxy to dry and re-drilled the pilot hole but without a drill press I may have drilled it wrong again. What I did was lay a straight edge on the center line and a small straight edge perpendicular to it in the hinge line and marked both left & right horns for hole locations (see photos). This resulted in the right horn with a hole 2mm forward of the left horn (see photo), both holes centered exactly in line with the center of the hinge line. When I finished the pull-pull hookup the results were perfect. There is no loosening or tightening of the cables when the rudder is turned in both direction and there’s no binding. This seemed a better solution and took less time. It also hasn’t limited the throws, I still have ±61.0 degrees. Next up was mounting the elevator servos, control horns and push rods. I had to open the servo holes slightly for my 5945’s to fit. I used the Nelson hobby RCL70 control horns from my Edge. After hooking up my push rods and balancing the up & down servo throw (DOD method) I got the length roughed in. I’ll make a more precise measurement tomorrow and finish the push rods. I have to remember to go back and add some CA and maybe a bit more wood to the servo pockets for the ailerons & elevators. BTW did any of you add anything to stiffen the rudder tray? The balsa that you see on either side of the rudder servo in the photo below was added only to mark reference lines for the servo arm setup and they will be removed. I was thinking of adding a ply or hardwood cross brace. Does anyone think it's a good idea?

Did a little work tonight on the wings. I got the servos & control horns mounted (more Nelson hobby RCL70's) and the push rods rough cut. I still need to check some final measurements to get the final lengths. I know there are a few of you that have completed your planes, how about a few photos of the layout under the hatch[sm=72_72.gif]!

Where did you obtain that printed protractor?? I want a couple!! Too easy.

Here is the link http://www.hppilots.com/gpage30.html
Ask for Roy. They are very nice for setting up servos especially for multi servo surface set-ups. I had a little to do with redesigning them. There were some earily versions that had some problems and a few of my suggestions were incorperated in the new ones. They have an adhesive backing and can be reused. You can also cut them to fit around horizontal stabilizer (see post 152 photos). I just got the redesigned ones in the mail about a week or so ago. I'll be giving Roy some feed back so they can be tweeked if needed.

here is how every thing ended up in my fuse for a cg at 3.5 inches back from the tips of the wing

the lump beside the fuel tank is the ignition battery and the rx battery is just inside the turtle deck

Thanks for the photo Mike. I got a few questions. 1) Is that your regulators between the receiver and the rudder servo? 2) Where did you end up putting your ignition module? 3) is your receiver battery 2 cells or 4 cells and how much does it weigh?

...

my ign is same side as shauns on engine box but mounted vertically the batterys are 1 4800 4 cell 2s-2p 7.4 volts battery on rx 2400 on ign 6.6 oz and 3.3 oz those are the mpi reg switches you see mounted between the the rudder servo and rx tray mounted on a couple peices of wood i glued in .

Both the batterys are fromeco and can be seen on there site

is that carb on backwards, or mine

The DA 50 carb can be flipped 180, if you do it just be sure NOT to flip the black reed block. That must stay in the same orientation. Instructions from DA were to apply blue Loc-Tite to the bolts then tighten them until the rubber gasket just slightly starts to squeeze out.

The build progress on my new Extra 300 has been a little slow. Nice weather has forced me to go fly my new Chip Hyde Tunnel Vision and man is that thing a hoot. It has aileron's bigger than the wings on most planes. I have been trying to get up enough nerve to do a hand launch from the vertical. Chip swears that I can just hold it by the canopy and apply about 1/2 throttle with on the OS 160 and hover it out of my hand-- this with a plane with 80 inch wing span -- Yea right. Guess there is a reason Chip is such a good pilot. Anyway, back on track, I have a concern about mounting the receiver. I have noticed a couple of photos where the antenna is run to a tube and ( I assume) internally toward the tail of the plane. I am using a Futaba 149 PCM receiver but have concerns about interference form the servos and or batteries which are in very close proximity in the pictures. I am setup for a pull-pull so the only wires running to the tail will be the elevator servos on both sides. I am using two 2800 TBM LiIon receiver batteries but don't know where they will be going yet. I know there is never a definitive answer to these questions, but is running the antenna through a tube in the middle of the plane OK or would I be better off it get the antenna as far away from all things electrical as possible?

First and foremost, don't do the first range checks with a PCM receiver. EVER!! If there are electrical issues present the PCM receiver may mask them until they become bad enough for the receiver to failsafe itself into the ground. It's happend too many times that way. ALWAYS do your first range checks with a standard receiver to determine that there are no issues present, then change to the PCM.

Running the receiver antenna through a plastic tube through the fuselage is a pretty common method of directing the antenna through the fuselage to where you want it to go and support it at the same time. THat's a non-issue. What is often a concern is running that same antenna (in or out of a tube) if it places the antenna wire in close proximity or between the tail servo leads. You want to keep the antenna as far as possible from the servo leads whenever you can. That's why so many people run the antenna externally on the top or the bottom of the fuselage.

I've often had an antenna wire running right down the middle between a pair of batteries without any problems but the final range checks will always be the answer to that one.

That's what I did and I am having no problems with it.. I ran it from the receiver plate up to a 1/2" glued piece of sullivan pushrod tube to guide it through. It then went over the pull-pull rudder servo and under the two batteries. Then I got a full piece of the yellow sullivan pushrod and ran it through the back of the plane.There is a samll crack right under the rudder inside the fuse. I glued the front edge down to a brace and put the antenna through it to the rear of the fuse.

The only item I did tonight was mounted my canopy to the hatch. I was going to use the glue/electrical tape method but decided instead to go with stainless steel button head screw I had. I may go back later and put in a pilot figure (we'll see how the weight goes first). I wanted it to be easy to remove. I do like the look of the screw though[sm=shades_smile.gif].

For you guys running a DA50 with Slimline Pitts muffler, what is the finished length of the tubes after you get done cutting them. Mine was already shortened a bit from my previous installation so do not have a good reference as to what I should be cutting off. Thanks in advance.

Mine ended up at 58.5mm from the bottom of the expansion chamber. The tubes hang down approximately 1� below the bottom of the fuselage. I’m not exactly sure how much I removed. It would help if someone knew how long they are to begin with. I would guess I removed about ¾�. If any of you know the stock length please post it. I have not run the motor to see how much louder it got. With the uncut muffler in my Edge I was getting 102 dBA @ 10 feet to the rear or side. That was at 7200 rpm’s with a Menz 22x8 propeller. I’ll have to fire her up soon and get a new reading.

i had to cut about .75" off of mine so i could get the cowl on. the cowl ring presents so problems with working around muffler pipes. you said yours is 102 db @10'. well the imac and i think ama roles say @ 25' is where to take the messurement. i flew at a imac contest 2 weeks ago at the triple tree feild (thats where Joe Nall is held) and we had to keep things quiet due to some complants from the past large scale events. so everyone that could ran 3 blade props and canisters and brought extra props for those who didn't have 3 blade props. everything went great!!! but it seems noise restrictions are getting more and more frequent.

also guys i had to put about a 1/16" washers on the left side of the motor to get more right thrust. after 4 flight last sat. i had a good bite of right trim on the rudder, after the washers i have maybe one or two clicks or trim now!!!! great improvement!!! and after moving the igniton bat. and putting one ounce of lead on the motor box she is tracking great!!! we balanced her for the first flights at 3 5/8" but she flew very tail heavy!!! landings were very tricky, everytime i came out of the motor she dropped her tail hard!!! but as i moved batterys farward things got better and now all i have done she flew alot better. i think this winter i might cut out part of the tunnel and try to get the tank back closer to the cg cause as the flight goes and fuel runs out she can get tail heavy!!!! hope i got the balance right now!!!

Mikey

I cut more than I needed about 1and 3/8. You can cut as little as 0.8"to an inch off the stock length and be good.

Mikey, I was just getting a number for my own reference and ten feet seemed reasonable. I did sound testing for 12 years and have a lab quality meter and I will be measuring all my planes and recording them for reference. I didn't try to match what IMAC or AMA requires for contests. I wasn't even aware there was a limit for there contests (what is their dBA limit and at what direction from the muffler)? I don't fly contests and my field doesn't have a sound limit currently. If things change I suppose I will do as others have done and pay the price to install a canister (I hope not for a while anyway). Thanks for the info.

i beleive it's 25feet from the side of the plane and i think it's 94db limit!!! what happened this year at joe nall was the guy who lives closest complained of the noise. i know there were several guys with 1/3 scale warbirds that were rippen the props doing low flybys wide open!!! so know we are really having to watch the noise we make!!! i know the jet rally was cancelled and i think it was cause of the jets being so loud!!! i ment nothing by the sound remark i made. but the way housing devolpments are getting closer and closer to our feilds some of us may someday be force to follow the noise rule. i know my feild is on a old dump site and of course they can't build houses any where close to us so i feel we are pretty safe!!! i just don;t want to spend all the $ for a canister setup i know it will be quiet but still thats alot $!!!! i fly imac and my extra is for that only and with some contest now having noise restrictions being inforced i may have to get canisters someday!!! but till then i love the sound of the slimeline pitts muffler, which mine is pretty queit cause it has the smoke system inside it to baffle the noise alittle!!! but right now i only have 4 flights on the motor so it's still pretty fat on the low end so if spits and pops alittle right now but it still is making great power!!! i can't wait to see the power is make after 4 or 5 gallons run through it!!!!

Mikey

It's funny, a canister setup is only about $100 more than a conventional wraparound muffler and weighs almost the same.

People will spend money on CF gear and wing tube, electronic hadgets that don't do anything, graphics, aftermarket bits and pieces, etc. just because they are cool, but that $100 for a canister setup to help keep peace with the public while making the engine run better is just too much money.

A canister is less cost increase than 1 good servo.


TF

don't get me wrong tom i love canisters and all but i really don;t think my pitts muffler is over the limit, plus i really use throttle management so i only go full throttle is in verticals. it's just the canister set up i've seen is about $250 and it's just that is way over what i got the pitts for. maybe i'm lookin at the wrong thing?? who knows??? i might go to canister set up soon or maybe later i know my buddy is going to put canisters in his WH 35% extra 330lx with a da100, cause like i said some contest are having noise issues at their feild.

Mikey

What kind of power loss can you expect going from a slimline pitts to a canister type installation??

You don't lose power with a canister, you usually gain some power because of the increased flow capacity.

Our canister kit is $219 for a DA-50. A Bisson wraparound power is $125, that's a difference of $94.

TF