RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I only ask two things. Enjoy building your plane!! And post us some pictures when you're done!!!!

Honestly, this is why I did the thread. I wanted people to see it and decide to build a plane. In this day and age of instant gratification the ARF's/RTF's are flying off the shelves. Many people just never have the chance to realize how much fun building is, and the satisfaction they get when they see their plane fly for the first time. Trust me, it's better than the feeling when you solo!!!!!! And the ARF'ers will never know that!!!

Enjoy

Ken

ouflyer

I don't feel so bad now, since RCKen brought up the ceiling fan incident. I did that to my fuselage while beading glue around my formers the other nite. Had mine tilted to get a good bead angle and....THWAP. [X(] Nothing serious, but scared the daylights out of me. Attacked by a 110 electric prop.

bruce88123

See Ken, confession IS good for the soul.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

[:'(]

Whatever!!!!!!



Shouldn't you be resting????

Ken

Warbird Joe

wow that is the moste impressive thread I have ever seen. This will be a great benefit to us new builders. Thanks Ken.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

With the wing covered it’s time to move on to the fuselage. As I stated in an earlier post, always cover from the rear of the fuselage forward. This keeps the seams of the covering from lifting up and peeling off because of the wind flowing over the plane surface.

So let’s get started on the fuselage. Starting at the rear of the plane we’ll cover the “tail feathers� first. Just like we did with the ailerons we need apply a few pieces of covering before we attach the rudder, because it will be difficult to access the areas after it is attached. So to get started we need to cover the end of the rudder (pictures #1 & #2). This is pretty much the same that we did when we covered the inside edges of the ailerons, so I’m not going to spend a lot of time here explaining what I did. Instead I’ll post the pictures as a reference for all that are following along. Once we get the rudder end covered we’ll be ready to move on to the next steps and attaching the rudder.

Note: I know that there are a bunch of sharpshooters out there that are looking at the pictures right now and thinking that I only covered one end, and it was the wrong end. Well, to be totally honest with you all, that is absolutely correct. Why is this? Well, ummmm, uhhh, hmmmm, let’s see, oh yeah I did that to make sure that everybody out there is paying attention. Yeah, that’s it. Paying attention!!!! Good job all of you that caught that one!!!!

Ok, now for the confession being good for the soul part. This was actually a mistake on my part. I covered it in the wrong color. To match the covering scheme of the plane this end of the rudder should be covered in purple covering. I didn’t notice the mistake until after I had the rudder attached to the plane. But it actually worked out in the end as it gave me to opportunity to show a different aspect of covering. As you’ll see later on, I’ll fix this problem.

Pictures
1. Rudder ready to cover.
2. Rudder ready to cover.
3. Cut a small piece of covering to cover the end of the rudder.
4. Applying the covering to the end of the rudder.
5. Using the covering iron to seal down the covering.
6. Overlap of covering
7. Seal down the overlap to the sides of the rudder
8. Completed covering the end of the rudder.

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

As we move to cover the surfaces of the tail I want to discuss how we do it. I’ve seen a lot of “bad� covering jobs in the years that I have been flying, and all of the bad ones always seem to have one thing in common. The joints between the tail surfaces (or where wings butt up against the fuselage) will have gaps in which you can see the wood underneath. Not only is this make a covering job look awful, it can also be very very bad for the plane. Gaps in the covering here can let fuel and exhaust residue seep through the gaps and soak the wood, and weaken the wood underneath to the point that it can fail in flight. Luckily this is a very easy problem to correct. If you look at picture #1 you can see that we use small strips of covering where the surfaces meet the fuselage, or each other. This simple little strip of covering will not only seal the gap so nothing can seep through, it will also improve the over look of you plane.

As we get started on the tail surfaces we really need to lay down a strip of covering directly under where the rudder will sit when it’s mounted on the vertical stabilizer (picture #2). We really don’t have to do it now, but it’s a lot easier to do now before the rudder is mounted than it is later. Cut a strip of covering to cover the area under the rudder (picture #3). When the this strip is in place we’ll start moving up the tail surfaces and place strips of covering where the vertical stabilizer meets the horizontal stabilizer. Measure out the length that we need here (picture #5) and cut the strip. If you look forward a little bit you may wonder why I used two different strips to cover this section instead of one. Because of the way the stabilizer is designed it caused the covering to “bunch� up in an awkward manner if I tried to do it in one long piece, so instead I use two shorter pieces to cover the same area. This is why it’s always good to test fit all pieces like this so that you can find any problem areas before you start ironing covering down. I’ve found that it’s a lot easier to apply strips like this if you first fold them in half lengthwise (picture #7), this will help you work it completely into the corner formed between the to control surfaces (picture #8). Once you have the strip on position go ahead and use a trim iron to iron it in place (pictures #8 & #9). Trim the ends of the strips (picture #10) and iron down any edges that may still be left. With the first strip in place (picture #11) we’ll move on to finish up the rest of the tail surfaces.


Pictures
1. Tail section before the rudder is attached.
2. Cut a small strip to cover underneath the rudder.
3. Use a hobby knife to cut away where it meets the vertical stabilizer
4. Measuring and marking a strip of the sides of the stab
5. The strip is easier to iron in place if you fold it in half first.
6. The strip is easier to iron in place if you fold it in half first.
7. Use a trim iron to iron strips into place.
8. Use a trim iron to iron strips into place.
9. Use a hobby knife to cut excess strip
10. Finished strip in place

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

As we continue on applying strips to the joints between our surfaces of the tail I won’t go into great detail about what is being done. This is because the technique here is exactly the same as used in the last post I made. We’ll cut strips, fold them in half, place them into the joint between surfaces, and then iron them in place. Always remember that we will work from the back of the plane towards the front on any covering we do.

In pictures #1 - #3 you can see where I finished covering the joint that we started in the last post. After that we will do the same joint between the vertical and horizontal stabilizers on the other side of the vertical stab (pictures #4 & #5). After that we will turn the fuselage over and do the same thing were the horizontal stabilzer meets the fuselage, on both sides of the fuselage (pictures #6 - #9). As you do these strips take your time and make sure they are fimly adhered to the fuselage.


Pictures
1. Front half of stab still needs a strip.
2. Strip cut and ironed in place.
3. Use a hobby knife to cut and iron down around the front of the stab
4. Cut and apply strips to other side of the stab.
5. Cut and apply strips to other side of the stab.
6. Cut and apply strips to underneath where the horizontal stab meets the fuselage
7. Cut and apply strips to underneath where the horizontal stab meets the fuselage
8. Cut and apply strips to underneath where the horizontal stab meets the fuselage
9. Cut and apply strips to underneath where the horizontal stab meets the fuselage


Until next time

Ken

Alex7403

Hello Ken,

I'm impressed.
Question: should i add more, addition thickness fiberglass joining the wing halves, I mean to make it thicker?
Should I use epoxy or CA on the fiberglass in the wing joints?


Please keep up the good work and documentation of it, it helps because last time I covered was Looooooooooooooooooooong ago.
I'm building a kit of mid star 40 now, its been long time since i built or flew any airplane.
gathering my stuff for covering.

i intend to cover with monokote dark blue and cab yellow.

Thanks

Alex

aeomaster32

There is another danger. When the nozzle blocked up, I used a pin to open it. There was more pressure in the tube than I realized, and CA sprayed out. Fortunately it didn't go for my eyes. Don't squeeze those tubes or bottles without some protection.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

alex7403,
Having built and flown this plane I really don't think that you need to fiberglass the wing joint. The wing for this plane is pretty well engineered and is more than strong enough for anything you can throw at it. I think you'll be fine building by the plans.

Ken

Alex7403

Thanks Ken

Insanemoondoggie

Ken, thanks again for this thread.

Alex7403

Ken, Thanks again for this thread, it helps alot!

on page 21 of this thread there is a black paint or some material on the firewall to prevent from oil and fuel from being soaked into the wood.
what is this material, and how to apply it? (an RC chapter i missed...)

Thanks again, your thread is helping alot!

Alex

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Actually, it's just black spray paint. If I remember correctly it's the cheap paint they sell at Wal-mart. After spraying the firewall with paint I then sealed it with epoxy. Use 30-minute epoxy and a heat gun to apply it. Put a bit of epoxy on the firewall and then hit it with heat from the heat gun. This will thin it out to the consistency of water, use your brush to spread it out over the firewall. After you have the entire firewall completed set it aside and let the epoxy set. You'll also want to do the entire engine area. Also the inside of the fuselage where the fuel tank is mounted.

Hope this helps

Ken

bruce88123

If you look carefully you can see the overspray from Ken's great masking work. Is it Friday yet?

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Not yet!!!!!

Ken

shd3920

Yes, this is a great thread. The best I have seen. And the detailed covering sequences are awesome.
I copied all the covering details to my Microsoft Word for permanent collection, and I will be printing it out soon so I can keep it in the form of an actual booklet as well as computer records. That is how great this all is.

One question though . . . When can we expect to see the rremaining covering sequences? I am dying to see the fuselage and tail-feather covering details.

Can not wait to follow these details on my next kit - which is a modified (electric conversion) Lanier ST-40 trainer.

Please keep us posted on the continuing covering process. Again - superb thread [sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif]

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Tigerdude,
I'm working on it as quick as I can. But things like being sick with the flu and building 2 new networks for clients have taken up a bunch of my time lately

Ken

Alex7403

Hello Ken,

Thanks for your thread it helps a lot, take your time with the flu.

Alex

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Alex,
Yes, you can use wood filler to build up an area that you have sanded too much. If it's a larger area there is another thing that youc an do. Use 1/16" balsa and glue into the low area. When the glue it dry simply sand the wood flush with the rest of the surface.

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Well, another trip out of town means more time spent sitting in an airport with time on my hands. These trips have turned into a great way for me to catch up on these thread posts.

With the strips of covering in place where the parts of the tail structure meet it's time to go ahead and mount the rudder. I won't spend a lot of time describing how to mount the rudder because it's mounted the same way that we installed the ailerons. I'm going to do a quick run through of how we do this. First we will mark the centerline of the CA hinge (picture #1), and then insert a straight pin into the center of the hinge before we insert it into the plane (picture #2). Now insert the hinges into the vertical stabilizer (picture #3), and then install the rudder onto the hinges (picture #4). Push the rudder as far as you can onto the hinges to eliminate any gap between the rudder and the vertical stabilizer, once you satisfied with how the rudder is mounted pull out the straight pins (picture #5). Double check your installation of the rudder by flexing to make sure that you have a full range of motion in the rudder (picture #6), if there is any binding or anything else with the movement of the rudder take the time to correct it now because there is no way you will be able to fix it after the CA has been applied to the hinges. When you are satisfied with the mounting of the rudder go ahead and flex the surface as far one direction as you can (picture #7) and apply thin CA to the hinge (pictures #8 & #9), then turn the plane over and apply CA to the other side of the hinge in the same manner as you did here. After the CA has set on both sides you will need to flex the rudder back and forth to ensure you have a full range of motion. Give a good tug on the rudder to ensure that it is fimly attached to the plane, trust me it's better to find out now that it's not attached properly than it is when the plane is in the air . Pictures #10 & #11 so the completed step.


Pictures
1. Marking the center of the CA hinges.
2. Insert a straight pin in the center of the hinges.
3. Insert the hinges into the vertical stabilizer.
4. Mount the rudder on the vertical stabilizer.
5. Remove the pins.
6. Flex the hinge to it’s travel limit.
7. Flex the hinge to it’s travel limit.
8. Apply thin CA to the hinges
9. Apply thin CA to the hinges.
10. Work the hinges after CA has set
11. Completed rudder mounted on vertical stab.

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

They say that a picture is worth a thousand words, with that in mind I'm going to let the pictures speak for themself. Installing the elevator is done in exactly the same way as both ailerons and the rudder.


Pictures
1. Insert the CA hinges into the pre-cut slots
2. Use a straight pin in the middle of the hinge to ensure that you don't insert it too far into the stabilizer.
3. Hinges ready for attachment of the elevator.
4. Slide the elevator onto the hinges.
5. Push the elevator all the way up to the horizontal stabilizer
6. After the elevator is in place pull out the straight pins.
7. Ensure that the ends of the elevator line up to the outside edges of the horizontal stabilizer
8. Apply thin CA to the hinges in the same manner as we did on the other structures.


Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

As we did when we covered the wings, we'll cover our hinge gaps before starting to cover the actual control surfaces. We'll do this exactly like we the hinge gap for the ailerons. Start out by using masking tape to hold the rudder as far deflected as it will go (pictures #1 - #3). Cut a strip of covering long enough for the surface, fold it in half lengthwise, and place it in the hinge gap (picture #4). You can use a regular covering iron to seal this portion of the covering, but a trim iron works better because of the space involved. First seal down the covering on one side of the hinge gap (picture #5), and then seal down the other side of the hinge gap (picture #6). As you seal this down to both sides of the gap take you time and make sure that it is completely sealed down to both sides of the gap. This is important because if you don't the covering will start to bunch up and interfer with movement of the surface later on when you are flying the plane. Remember what I said at the start of covering, don't get in a hurry because it takes time to do it correctly. After the sides of the gap are sealed down now use the covering iron to seal the top of the strip to the control surfaces (pictures #7 - #9). Use a hobby knife to trim the end of the strip and iron down the ends (picture #10). Pictures #11 & #12 so the completed strip in place. After you have both sides of the surface covered flex the control surface back and forth a few times in order to "crack" the covering, make sure you still have full movement of the surface before you move on from here.


Pictures
1. Flex the rudder surface as far in one direction as it will go and secure it in place with masking tape.
2. Use masking tape to hold the rudder in place.
3. Use masking tape to hold the rudder in place.
4. Cut a strip of covering and fold it in half, then place it in the hinge gap.
5. Use a trim iron to secure the strip to one side of the gap.
6. Now seal down the other side of the gap.
7. Use a covering iron to seal the top of the strip to the surfaces.
8. Use a covering iron to seal the top of the strip to the surfaces.
9. Use a covering iron to seal the top of the strip to the surfaces.
10. Use a hobby knife to trim the end of the strip.
11. Completed strip in place
12. Completed strip in place.

Until next time

Ken

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

After sealing the gap for the rudder we'll do the elevator next. Since I've already described this procedure earlier I'm not going to go into detail and explain it again. Please refer to the pictures of doing this step. The only thing that I will comment on here is because of the length of the elevator I couldn't use one single piece of covering to cover the entire gap, so using two pieces was needed to accomplish this (picture #7).


Pictures
1. Use masking tape to hold the elevator to cover the hinge gap
2. Use masking tape to hold the elevator to cover the hinge gap
3. Place folded strip of covering the hinge gap.
4. Use a trim iron to seal one side of the hinge gap
5. Use a trim iron to seal the other side of the gap
6. Use the covering iron to seal the top of the strip down.
7. Because of the length of the elevator two pieces of covering will be used to cover the gap.
8. Cut slits in the strip in order to work it around curves.
9. Cut slits in the strip in order to work it around curves.
10. After gap is sealed flex the surface back and forth to ensure full movement of the surface
11. After gap is sealed flex the surface back and forth to ensure full movement of the surface

Until next time

Ken