Well Mike you got my wheels spinning. After Mike/AKA Toyota Truckin sent me a PM the other day and a friend stopped by a day later and wanted to see my boats run. I decided to start on the 90 size avenger first. Will take some time funds are always lacking. Need 1/4 scale servo,reciever,90 size pipe, and a couple servos for the 3rd channel and throttle. I might use the 2 HS 425 hitec I have for the. I need to redo all linkage and need 4 rubber isolators to mount the engine. Im going to leave it in the Tony the tiger colors. So It will take less time and money. Here is most of the hardware polished up and ready to go on the hull but I need the isolators for the engine. And will clean up the hull. I had to cut out part of the right front sponson because it had 3 broken off bolts that I couldn't get out so I added some hard wood and will use some wood screws to reattach the turn fin that I swipped off the other rigger.

I got the rubber isolators ordered and they are on the way. At least I will be able to start putting the engine back in in a couple days. Along with the front sponsons. I need to go get some stainless bolts for them. I think I will drill them right through. I was checking the old owner has them set up right to the plan. Also will pick up some wood screws for the turn fin.

There are threaded brass inserts (name escapes right now) that can be picked up you local Home Depot etc. Wont strip out like using wood screws to attach your turn fin to your sponson.

Ill check into them but I don't think mt threads are going to strip out. I rebuit the area's with some oak 2 laminations 1/4 x1/4 so there is a half inch. I used this oak on a weight tray for an 80inch span airplane and its a chore to thred them in. This time I will use a little wax on the threads to help in putting the screws in. But I will check out the inserts and see if I like them

Well I got a bit done the isolators showed up. So I started a mock up. Put the turn fin on.Also drilled and bolted the booms up front. Need to get a 5/16 brass tube for the flex shaft. Probably go back down and reassemble the rudder and install and the toss handle.

Got a bit more done

See you're comin along!

In last post, middle pic.... it looks like your stuffing tube isn't quite lined up w/your engine collet (or is it just my eyes)? In the same pic, you may find that piece of ply reinforcement may let go from the tub over time (no biggy).... and might need to be replaced w/something with more surface area contact to the tub to hold. But let 'er rip & see how it goes!

Very nice thus far. =)

She's got gap all the way around it. Plus its glassed in all the way around. If it lets go I will build it from side to side so it has more surfac to grab.

Thanks Balsa Boats I need radio gear and servos and some bellows to hold the water out of the radio box and all the linkage. Hope to get it in the water before winter, but ya never know.

Hey unclecrash

 I have a Cobra 45 that I have had  unfinished sitting for years and  took a look at the hull and sponsons and  wanted to ask  do you have solid sponson  on your boat?  If so how do they look on the boat  being the hull you have  has a lot of run time on it.... any dents swelling in the wood??  When I ordered mine around 96 the boat came with solid wood sponson all around.

Solex227

Sorry I never replied back. I have 3 of these boats. The one in the build I had to cuti nto the front sponsons because the screws for the turn fin were broke. I believe they were foam inside. and they are in good shape. The smaller boat .67 size they were in rough shape like you said. I know they are solid because they were stressed and the one was cracked so I broke it in half and put it back together. Will reseal and repaint them. But no worries. The third is brand new never setup or painted. so I have spare hull and new sponsons. Hope to get back at this build soon. But ya never know.

Ok Im back on this build. I have put two servos in for throttle and third channel for mixture. I got the right pipe from AL Hobbs. But I now have run into a few issue's. 1 with the silicone tube and clamp right above the flywheel,its going to be a pain to start. 2 the cowl willnot fit as you can see in the pics. Any Idea's and please don't tell me to hack in to my cowl. my thought is if I weld the pipe to the header this will solve my issue of the cowl not closing. Then cut the tube again about 2 to 3 inches back and this will be where I join it with silicone and can do my adjustments on the pipe length. It will kill two birds with one stone. It will get the stuff out of the way of the starter belt and will let my cowl close.[8D] What do you guys think. I know I can use thinner clamps but they will still be in the way. Just wish I would have took a closer look at the boat when it was in one piece at the shop ,But that was 15 years ago. And my old brain would have probably forgot anyways.

Your plan to make the header longer by welding an extension makes sense. Looks good.

I was thinking it would work but might go another direction with it.

Hey guys where can I buy just the gromet and the band strap I guess you would call it for to hold pipe at rear. I donot need the whole thing .check pic for reference you will see the parts I need. Dave

I have made my own with a brass strip and no rubber grommet. I have seen people use automotive style metal hose clamps with the rubber grommets built in. I have used them on my race car and bought them from Summit Racing. You can also look at McMaster Carr.

www.mcmaster.com

I was thinking on using a strip od aluminum and finding a gromet,but was hoping somwone new where I could purchase one,being lazy

Well I decided to fix the cowl so it would fit with no rubbing.So a glassed a fairing on it . And I got a servo from a friend but I need to get another friends programmer . I think who ever owned it was using it for a flap it will only turn one way.

Looks good. I like the twin plug head, is that standard with that motor?

You know, you only need to turn right, that servo will work fine as is.

LOL I know but its nice to have the left turn to come back to shore or to keep from chopping someone elses boat in half. This is a modded 90 done by andy brown. He machined the head. They say they stopped using them. But I k8ind of like it it seems to help burn the extra fuel and on a somewhat lean run I have burned a plug and It just keeps on running on the other,saved me from having to go and get it more than once. It is supose to be a beast. If you look at the carb it is machined for the app. The venturi diameter is 14.9mm and thats not at the edge of the venturi that the overall center diameter. They were having trouble getting enough air to it so they built there own carb for it. A normal ops 90 usually runs on 5 or 10% nitro from what I understand not5 this one. The original owner told me feed it nothing but 50% to get it to run properly. I also have an ops dual plug 67 Ron Olson told me there probably arn't many of these out there. Well I made my own mount for exhaust. And sent servo out for repair. I believe that and the paint on the cowl is about all thats holding me back. Oh and the lakes need to finish thawing. Tonight Im going to make a battery tray and a reciever tray. Oh and I need a switch. But I might just plug directly into the reciever. Im going to check with my friend he has the other half of our hobby store buyout and see if he has one of the dubro switch deals that mounts through the radio box.

Almost got it done. I am waiting on the servo and the pipe fitting for pressure tap. I installed the battery and reciever also put a switch in and primered the cowl. Here are a couple pics.

I fired up the ops 90 today now just have to clear the canopy and put a bit of jb weld around the pipe fitting for some reason the exhaust is puddling up on my deck.

Cool deal, post up how it runs when you get it done!

Just need a warm day to spray the cowl and finish the stand I made. Can't wait to get this fuel slobbering beast to the lake.