aandreas

I have a DLA 112 and started break in the motor ..but it looks like not enough oil is geting in one off the cylinder....only one mufler spits oil ...the other does not and is hoter ..
The hot one does not have the same comprestion ..
What looks strange is that he indaktion reed valves are angled to the side off the motor that works fine ... Could it be an indaktion problem?
I open the motor and i have fount that the bud cylinder is worn more thanthe other ...the ring is blak ....
I Tested the bad cilynder to the the other side off the engine ..and it has ok comprestion ,i put the good cilynder to the bad piston,ring and still not good comprestion ,
so do you think its the ring that is barned ?
Can i use DLE parts to repair this motor?

aandreas

the motor has run 4 liter strait gas and 1:30 castrol 2tt raising oil

aandreas

some pictures

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

It's absolutely normal for a centerline induction twin to run leaner and warmer on one cylinder. The crank interferes with equal fuel distribution. Unless you have a twin carb set up, where each carb feeds it's own cylinder, this won't change. Even piston port and throttle body fuel injection does similar. Only direct injection provides equal balance.

Put the engine back together the way it came, with wrist pins and bearings in the same holes and oriented the same way, and continue the break in. Don't get things hot, just middle of the road highs and lows. No lean tuning.

aandreas

Thanks for the reply im a litle comfused sinse i dont have any experiense in twin 2 stroke with reed valves .So you are teling me that i must let the motor run more ....
What about the comprestion...isit normal to have almost nothing at the one side?
And also when running only one mufler spits oil the other one mast be so leaner
Thank you ....im so disapointed ...(i just took out the cylinder and the indaction so its easy to put it back)

aandreas

i have 2 -3 videos off the motor running i hope it will help ... this is first run
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xagks...layer_embedded
this is 3d liter

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COZqJ...layer_embedded
this is the 4 liter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pz-hq...layer_embedded

aandreas

i forger to say that i started running in with premioum castrol 2t oil but after the 1st liter i used castrol 2tt raising full synthetic oil .
i have now the motor on a test stand ready for running again I will run it as rich as posible and see...

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

It's quite common for Chinese engines to have little compression in them. The compression develops as the rings seat, which happens with running time. It's also common for one side to be spitting more break in wear discoloration from the exhaust than another. If one cylinder runs richer or leaner than the other, which is also common to all opposed twins with a central carb, the leaner sde will run hotter.

Don't panic, just run it more. My experience has indicated it takes upwards of 15 gallons of gas to break in a Chinese engine and you're far too low in running time to have impacted the break in processs to enable any amount of ring seating.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Yea, I know what you're saying. If only he'd bought a DLE....

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Lol, sorry, I hit the wrong button. Ha, ha, I wouldn't say that, you know me better than that.I would ask though, since this is obviously a new engine with a warranty, if he has contacted the selling dealer about his issue and what advise or instruction would have beengiven by them.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

The engine is only running on one cylinder. Switch the plug wires between the two and the problem will follow the bad wire. You have a bad ignition

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Watch the 3rd video, it's very clear the problem isn't ignition.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

No, it's not the ignition, though I would go back and seat the caps hard after engine shut down. It's just a new engine and one cylinder is leaking enough that compression is low on that side. It's VERY common with some of the Chinese engines. If people ever took the cylinders off and looked at the wear pattern established after an hour of running they would see just how much power they are losing to non concetric cylinders. All the shiny spoots are where the ring HAS been seating. The spots that show no wear is where the ring hasn't been seting at all, or or poorly.

I've mentioned before how people were losing 25% or more of the power they should have but as usual nobody was paying attention. I didn't say how, but if they got inside their engines and started looking at things with open eyes they would learn a lot. This is why better engines cost more. They are made beter, with a lot more attention to finish tolerances. It's not enough to simply copy a cylinder and toss a standard piston and ring in it.

So what's happeneing here is just a simple lack of understanding. The cylinder that has a better cylinder bore is wearing in the ring faster, so it's making more break in goo. It's probably also the one with the most compression. The other one will eventually come around, but that will take awhile. Jody had a good point about the selling dealer giving advice. What was it, if there was any?

Jody, give me a call as soon as you can.

aandreas

thank you all....some times asking for help does the job...ignition is ok i tested it first off all ...new plugs and wires crosed.
i have the motor to a stand now and i ll start break in again ..
i got the motor from hobbyking ....i whanted to go for DLE but i was so exited with my su-26 and whanted it airborn as soon as posible[]
i send email to DLA but got nothing back.... i didnt expext to ...[&o]

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

That last sentence was one of the most important in this thread. The learning experience was expensive, but the lesson was learned. Fortunately there is no additional expense to the lesson, with that lesson being to obtain products from the locations that will provide the best support, both up front and later.

You'll be fine with more running time. Since you're in Greece you might want to fly the engine for break in instead of ground running. You will probably have better control of engine cooling when it's in the air.

aandreas

oups ..i just look at my mail....i have response fron DLA so its unfair what i said before ...!!
i WOULD LIKE TO CORECT THIS NOW !!!
Im waiting to see what DLA has to say ..

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

We'll be waiting

aandreas

ok here is the reply from David DLA

hi,
Thanks for all your questions.
Here are the answers to ur questions:
we suggest to use 2s lipo=7.4v betrry.
second, the H needle 1.5, and low needle 2.
third, please change the position of spark plug. I mean change the left spark plug to right and right on to left.
and if you have any pictures to show the problems, please let me know.
we will always be here to solve your problems. if you have any problem, please let me know.
you can add jessica on [email protected]
Many thanks
David
I came back from testing the motor ..i did this before i get the mail..i coudnt weit..
richer needle setings2turns- H and2turns- L ..and i see now good blue smock coming out off both muflers ..so
must i continiou runing the motor on the grount or mount it on the plane and dou the rest on air??
the motor is responding ok to throtle ...i think i must close the H alittle if i go fliyng ...

aandreas

after i tested the motor on a stand last week i fined out that with a very rich setting i could see the smoke coming out off the muflers so i burned about 2 liters this way ..
Then on friday i put the motor on my plane and at Saturday i went flying ...the motror was so rich and made a very interesting 4 stroke radial like sound....i burned another 2 liters this way ...
After that on Sunday i tuned the motor for normal flying ..stil a bit rich ...but ok for flying ...i also made same buffling and after that the cilyders temperapure are no more than 88 celsious
maybe too cool??

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Tune the engine for the best performance, starting with the first run. Never break in a gas engine rich. Do not fly a gas engine unless it has been tuned for the best performance, regardless of the stage of break in.

Gas engines are designed to be run in specific temperature ranges if they are to perform correctly. Too hot or too cold generates problems sooner or later. Too rich or too lean creates a condition that is too cold or too hot. So tuning and temperature largely go hand in hand.

The manufacturer provided needle settings for your use. Those are not to be relied upon for establishing engine performance, but are only enough to get the engine runing for you to then work on final tuning.

88C is a little cool but how was that result obtained? With a heat gun? If so you don't have a clue what the operating temperatures were while the engine was performing the most work while in flight. Obtain something that records operational temps in flight. Venom makes a relatively inexpensive high/lkow data logger that can be viewed after engine shut down. Temp guns are generally useless, so the 88C reading was probably not representative of true operating temps. If 88C was noted at idle after landing it only noted the state of the engine at that particular moment. 88C for an engine at idle is pretty good. 88c for an engine at wide open throttle in a climb isn't possible unless it is being drowned in gas.

grassie

Now this was an interesting read so far![sm=49_49.gif] I much prefer some positive input above shooting products down.
Thanks TOM, your inputs makes perfect sense.
I also bought a DLA112 from HK after reading all the posts here and on FG, just to see what everybody is on about.
Let me tell you, I have the DLA mounted on an old telephone table with a toolbox weighing 25kg or more on the seat and this engine pulls it over the floor if I don't watch what I am doing.
The first run was perfect. I started the engine out of the box, no fiddling. I believe in fiddle, fiddle, f%^&ed! So, if it aint broke, don't fix it!
The settings have now been changed as set out in "Tuning for newbies", and is running like a clock. There is no 4 stroking, so it is ready to go into the SBACH.[8D]

cropduster48

To get mine to settle down and run smothly, I did have to back the timing down to 28 deg.

AraTidwell

I know someone who bought a DLA-56 and he couldn't get the sucker to start, he had to send it back in with an unknown verdict. I don't know why someone would buy a DLA when DLE's are known to be the real deal

captinjohn

Sometimes the cheapest in the long run will cost you more!!! Capt,n