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Old 01-23-2011 | 03:14 PM
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Default Carb needle settings

Ive got a Zenoah G-26, the carb needles need to be reset to factory settings or as close to posible. Can anybody give me some help here? They got screwed all the way in and now need to be reset, ive played around with it and not haveing any luck finding where they need to be.
Old 01-23-2011 | 03:26 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

1 1/2 H and 1L will get you in the ball park. There are many variables, but you should be able to find the sweet spot.
Old 01-23-2011 | 03:42 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

Sorry, but I have to ask. What's the importance of the factory settings?

I'll let the rest of you handle it from here. It could be amusing.
Old 01-23-2011 | 03:47 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

Old 01-23-2011 | 04:53 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

Come on guys, say what you are thinking. ("ARRGGHH")



AV8TOR
Old 01-23-2011 | 06:36 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

Carb settings= set em whereyour enginerus the best! Thats it folks Capt,n said that !
Old 01-23-2011 | 06:50 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

It usually takes me at the most a minute but I have to figure the needles out on my own
Old 01-23-2011 | 08:41 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

Im sorry guys!! I thought this was a place to ask for help, or was I mistakeing it for something else? I dont need your smartass coments, I asked for help and nothing else. Since I dont have any exsperiance with gas engines and want to learn them then it looks like I need to look elsewhere to seek the advise of people who do have the exsperiance to help a guy out. Thanks for nothing!
Old 01-23-2011 | 09:07 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

they're just screwing around, not trying to do it at your expense but at the other people that argue about anything and everything... This type of question brings out the crazies like asking "what oil is best" and so forth...

a good starting point is 1.5 turns out from stop on both needles, it should at least run there but you will have to fine tune
Old 01-23-2011 | 09:38 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

I was having some fun but since you got to name calling I'll say something like: if you want help you must first learn to help yourself. If you typed " carb factory settings" in a search function you would have likely come up with a list of posts in several RC forums as long as you are tall. If you were to type in "Walbro factory settings" you would come up with another equally long list of informational threads. So you are either lazy or don't have basic computer/internet skills. You want others to do the work instead of you.

But no, you have to run out and call all the people that have provided people like you volumes of engine information a foul referenced name. So in this case the anal orifice is you because your inexperience and lack of tolerance just made you loathed by all the people that could help you the most. If you knew anything you would know that just about every Walbro out there could get the engine started with both needles 1-1/2 open, and that further adjustment was mandatory after starting to obtain the correct level of mixture tuning for your engine. If you were real bright you might have downloaded the instructions from the Horizon site. So just for even more fun, who was the moron that closed the needles without counting the number of turns?

Likely your next questions will reference oil ratios, types of oil, prop sizes, and timing. With luck you'll contemplate a little futher longer you call people *****holes. Look in the mirror, you might not like what you see. Until then you will have to KMA before I'll answer one of your questions.
Old 01-23-2011 | 10:18 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

Brutal in here this time of year![:-]
Old 01-23-2011 | 10:34 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings


ORIGINAL: Antique

Quit that.
BCCHI
Old 01-23-2011 | 10:43 PM
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Old 01-23-2011 | 10:55 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings


ORIGINAL: rangerfredbob

they're just screwing around, not trying to do it at your expense but at the other people that argue about anything and everything... This type of question brings out the crazies like asking ''what oil is best'' and so forth...

a good starting point is 1.5 turns out from stop on both needles, it should at least run there but you will have to fine tune
Rangerfredbob, thank you, this was the kind of info I was looking for. Once again thank you for your time.
Old 01-23-2011 | 10:56 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings


ORIGINAL: SCOTT42

Im sorry guys!! I thought this was a place to ask for help, or was I mistakeing it for something else? I dont need your smartass coments, I asked for help and nothing else. Since I dont have any exsperiance with gas engines and want to learn them then it looks like I need to look elsewhere to seek the advise of people who do have the exsperiance to help a guy out. Thanks for nothing!

The only way to learn how to tune an engine is to twist some needles and take notes as to the effect. That's why your question brought forth so many humorous comments.


Ed Cregger
Old 01-23-2011 | 11:09 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings


ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man

I was having some fun but since you got to name calling I'll say something like: if you want help you must first learn to help yourself. If you typed '' carb factory settings'' in a search function you would have likely come up with a list of posts in several RC forums as long as you are tall. If you were to type in ''Walbro factory settings'' you would come up with another equally long list of informational threads. So you are either lazy or don't have basic computer/internet skills. You want others to do the work instead of you.

But no, you have to run out and call all the people that have provided people like you volumes of engine information a foul referenced name. So in this case the anal orifice is you because your inexperience and lack of tolerance just made you loathed by all the people that could help you the most. If you knew anything you would know that just about every Walbro out there could get the engine started with both needles 1-1/2 open, and that further adjustment was mandatory after starting to obtain the correct level of mixture tuning for your engine. If you were real bright you might have downloaded the instructions from the Horizon site. So just for even more fun, who was the moron that closed the needles without counting the number of turns?

Likely your next questions will reference oil ratios, types of oil, prop sizes, and timing. With luck you'll contemplate a little futher longer you call people *****holes. Look in the mirror, you might not like what you see. Until then you will have to KMA before I'll answer one of your questions.
Thank you tiredoldman, your help has been very thoughtful. Lets see?? Your right I dont have computer skills, just allmost about the same as I have with gas engine skills, but remember you had the smartass coment while i was just asking a question. Im sorry if my lack of info, or knowledge of what I was asking bothered you. And to answer another question you had about who it was that screwed the needles all the way in was in fact my smartass stepdaughter with care of whats not hers. So what would a guy with your intellagece do about that? with in reason? Is it , or am I wrong that this website is a place to seek knowlege? is it a crime that I come to the guys that know and that have paved the way for others? And what would have happend if i went to the airfield and asked that question about the carb? It would have been a total differant attitude from you guys. So once again thank you!!
Old 01-23-2011 | 11:20 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

Looks like someone opened up a good old can o' cabin fever in these here parts!
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Old 01-23-2011 | 11:28 PM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

For the record, who lets their children play with their airplane engines? That failure started at the top.

You already had your question answered by the time I posted the first time. Did you need another 30 answers for consensus?
Old 01-24-2011 | 06:00 AM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

Somewhere on the web the starting settings are readily available with a search attempt. OR even in the owners manual or on the Horizon website. The "best oil" answer is also out there floating on the WWW. Like Agent Mulder said to Agent Scully said "The truth is out there."
Old 01-24-2011 | 09:06 AM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings


ORIGINAL: ec121

..................................readily available with a search attempt.................................
Rut-row.....you said a bbaaaadd word....SEARCH.

There's a group of users online, that are "search challenged". They'll spend 0% effort needed to find the answer, instead wanting others to do it for them. If I was that way, I'd be embarrassed to have NOT tried to search for my needed answer. Heck, I'm embarrassed when I do look and can't find such.

I cringe to think of them in control of an R/C model with a hedge chopper up front.........scary image that creates.

What's the saying..........spoon feed me now & everytime -or- teach me to feed myself forever on my own.

fwiw; I did a web search using "Zenoah G-26", clicked on the first link, D/L'd the owners manual, read the INDEX, and found the answer needed, all under 90 seconds ( I'm semi-old, and slow[])

RCU itself is a big part of this problem. Where do they list their help/support message sections?
At the BOTTOM of the front page!

OK, enough ranting....gotta save some for the next "search challenged" event!
Old 01-24-2011 | 09:08 AM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

.....RCU server glitch......dupe post.....
Old 01-24-2011 | 09:54 AM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

I did a search for "Carb Needle Settings" and the results would be very vague to a newbe

Anywhere from 7/8ths to 3 turns? This wouldn't really serve any purpose to a new guy?

http://search.rcuniverse.com/search....rchwhere=forum

Maybe a search for "turns" would work better? Selecting the "Key Word" is all important as turns gets you close to the same result.

I appears, you would have to be a genius to select the correct key word and then be able to sort the many answers to arrive at the truth?

For many of us, tuning an engine has been second nature and we have been doing it since we were allowed to play outside as kids. I suppose video games do not teach you this skill?

Also to many of us, it is hard to imagine one having not already monkey'ed with chain saws, lawn mowers, weed whackers, and glow engines to be able to tell lean from rich?

But it is also hard to imagine someone pitching a knock down drag out fit (was removed) about the secondary answers they recieved after the correct answer was the first reply.
Old 01-24-2011 | 10:10 AM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

Sorry if anyone got offended; it is just that this question gets asked quite often, and is rather aggravating in and of itself. (No offense intended.) I suppose it comes from the fact that people buy gas powered machines or equipment, and expect them to run without adjustment. If they don't run properly, then they take them to a mechanic that can adjust that "scary" carburetor, or they return the item to the store. It is quite a different story with engines for model airplanes...

Factory settings are carb settings that (hopefully) will get the engine to run under most any circumstance, or combination of barometric pressure, altitude, temperature, humidity, and prop load; nothing more. From there, one HAS to tune the engine to run properly in your particular combination of conditions.

As mentioned, 1.5 turns out on both needles will usually get the engine to run, and then you can fine tune it to actually run properly from there. I usually even cheat that a little and use 1 3/4 turns on both needles when I am first setting up an engine/carb combo. A too rich engine will usually at least try to run and let you dial it in, whereas a too lean engine often will not.

Attached is a great document for understanding and adjusting carbs. (Begins on page 10)

AV8TOR
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Zx72672.pdf (612.4 KB, 144 views)
Old 01-24-2011 | 10:24 AM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

Enter "Zenoah needle settings" in the search function at the top of this forum. The fifth search result comes up to a thread on Zenoah G26 tuning. What could be simpler!

How did people function before the internet? Many of us older types had to look far harder for info than people do today. And ... some people of my generation (and other generations) have become just plain lazy when it comes to research.
Old 01-24-2011 | 10:44 AM
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Default RE: Carb needle settings

That one from BME is probably the best one I have seen.

I'll put it here in case someone is impatient.

<font size="4">The Following is from the BME manual . . . .
</font> <style type="text/css">p { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }</style><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in; page-break-before: always;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">CARBURATOR/MIXTURE BASICS:</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">The engine will run properly when it is receiving the correct fuel mixture (amount of air and fuel) from the carburetor.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">The amount of air it receives is controlled by the throttle (butterfly) and how far it is open. </font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">The amount of fuel that it receives depends on the settings of the Low- and High-end needles.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">The engine draws fuel from the low-end (idle) needle at all times. As the engine RPMs increase to 2,000 &ndash; 3,500 (called the midrange) it also draws fuel from the high-end needle. As the RPMs increase further, it draws even more fuel from the high-end needle. The trick is to adjust the needles so that the engine gets the right amount of fuel for all throttle settings (butterfly openings).</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Courier New, monospace"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">The term </font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">&ldquo;Lean&rdquo;</font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3"> means that there is less fuel or more air being delivered to the engine from the carburetor for a given butterfly opening (throttle setting). The engine will run faster, smoother, and hotter as the mixture is &ldquo;leaned&rdquo;, provided that it is not leaned too much causing the engine to over heat and "sag".</font></font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Courier New, monospace"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">The term </font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">&ldquo;Rich&rdquo;</font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3"> means that there is more fuel being delivered to the engine by the carburetor for a given throttle setting. The engine will typically run slower, cooler, and less smoothly and will probably foul the spark plugs if it is too rich.</font></font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Generally, the Low-end needle is set as lean as possible while still retaining the ability to instantly transition from idle to the midrange. If the idle is set too lean, the engine will hesitate and probably die if the throttle is advanced quickly from idle. If the idle is set too rich, it will spit, sputter, and burble when the throttle is moved quickly from low to high because it is trying to burn excess fuel.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">The High-end needle is set correctly when the engine turns maximum RPM without overheating. If set too lean over-heating will occur, causing the engine to &ldquo;sag&rdquo; or otherwise slow-down and will cause damage to the engine. This can show up while flying when the aircraft is climbing vertically or pulling through loops. If set too rich, the engine will not run smoothly and will not develop full power.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 1in; text-indent: -0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">The carburetor has two black needles that are used to adjust Low-end (idle and midrange) and High-end (full throttle) fuel mixtures. They are marked on the carb body next to the needles &ldquo;L&rdquo; and &ldquo;H&rdquo; respectively.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">When a needle is screwed &ldquo;in&rdquo; (turned clockwise) it &ldquo;leans&rdquo; the mixture by restricting fuel flow. When a needle is screwed &ldquo;out&rdquo; (turned counter-clockwise or CCW) it richens the mixture by allowing more fuel to flow through the carburetor and into the engine.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">If for any reason the needle settings are completely lost, the low-end needle should be reset to 1 &frac14; turns open and the high-end needle set to 1 &frac12; turns open in order to begin re-tuning the engine. Start by screwing the needles all of the way in, but be careful and do not to over-tighten them or their seats may be damaged. Close them just enough to be snug. Now open them 1 &frac14; and 1 &frac12; turns for initial settings.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Courier New, monospace"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Note: The carburetor may be equipped with a brass fitting containing a screwdriver slot - this is the accelerator pump and </font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">should not be adjusted</font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">!</font></font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in; page-break-before: always;"></p><p align="CENTER" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="CENTER" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="4">STARTING AND ADJUSTING YOUR BME ENGINE.</font></font></p><p align="CENTER" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="CENTER" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="CENTER" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Courier New, monospace"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">CAUTION!</font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3"> </font></font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><ul>[*] <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Please review and become familiar with all safety instructions before attempting to start your engine.</font></font></p>[/list]<p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><ul>[*] <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Do not attempt to start the engine without a helper to hold the aircraft!</font></font></p>[/list]<p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><ul>[*] <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Be sure that the ignition has been completely and correctly wired before starting the engine.</font></font></p>[/list]<p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><ul>[*] <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Always treat the engine as though it could fire and run at full power at any time.</font></font></p>[/list]<p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">PREPARE THE ENGINE FOR STARTING:</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Courier New, monospace"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">If it is the first time the engine is to be run</font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3"> the needles should already be at the factory settings. This should result in preliminary settings that will allow the engine to idle and to run slightly rich at full throttle</font></font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Courier New, monospace"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">After filling the fuel tank with the proper gas/oil mixture, make sure the ignition is turned </font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">OFF</font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3"> and </font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">make sure a helper is securely holding the aircraft!</font></font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Choking The Engine</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 1in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">There are three methods of choking BME engines depending on how the carburetor is configured.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><ul>[*] <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">If the carburetor has a fuel bulb/reservoir, depress the bulb until it is full and excess fuel squirts out.</font></font></p>[/list]<p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.75in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><ul>[*] <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">If the carburetor has a choke (a butterfly at the carb opening) close the butterfly so that it covers the intake and flip the prop until fuel appears at the carburetor.</font></font></p>[/list]<p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.75in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><ul>[*] <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">If the carburetor has no choke place your thumb over the carb intake and rotate the propeller (don't flip it) until fuel appears at the carb opening without letting go of the propeller.</font></font></p>[/list]<p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in; page-break-before: always;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">STARTING THE ENGINE:</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p>
  1. <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in; line-height: 150%;"><font face="Courier New, monospace"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Make sure the </font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">ignition is turned OFF!</font></font></font></p>
  2. <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in; line-height: 150%;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Choke the engine using one of the methods described above.</font></font></p>
  3. <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in; line-height: 150%;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Set the throttle to full idle (the butterfly open approximately 1/32&rdquo; to 1/16&rdquo.</font></font></p>
  4. <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in; line-height: 150%;"><font face="Courier New, monospace"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Turn the ignition system </font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">ON</font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">.</font></font></font></p>
  5. <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in; line-height: 150%;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Flip the prop CCW until the engine fires. If the carb is equipped with a choke the engine will fire and then stop. At this point open the choke and flip the prop until the engine fires and runs (usually 3-5 flips).</font></font></p>
  6. <p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in; line-height: 150%;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Let the engine warm-up for a while before advancing the throttle.</font></font></p>
<p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">ADJUST THE CARBURATOR LOW-END FOR IDLE AND TRANSITION:</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in; page-break-after: avoid;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 1.5in; text-indent: -1in; margin-bottom: 0in; page-break-after: avoid;"><font face="Courier New, monospace"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">WARNING!</font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3"> Do not attempt to adjust the engine while it is running. Make all adjustments with the engine stopped and ignition switched </font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">OFF</font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">!</font></font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in; page-break-after: avoid;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in; page-break-after: avoid;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Once the engine is started and allowed to warm up, check the idle and transition.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in; page-break-after: avoid;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in; page-break-after: avoid;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">The engine should idle slowly and reliably from 1,000 to 1,500 RPM. </font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in; page-break-after: avoid;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in; page-break-after: avoid;"><font face="Courier New, monospace"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">If the engine is running very rough (popping, spitting/sputtering, and burbling) and is having difficulty running at low rpm, try leaning (turn clockwise) the </font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Low-end</font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3"> needle &ldquo;L&rdquo; 1/8 turn at a time until it runs smoothly. (The low-end needle is the one that is closest to the engine.)</font></font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Once it runs fairly smooth at idle, try advancing the throttle quickly to about 1/3 throttle (2500-3500 RPM). If the engine hesitates and/or quits, it is too lean, and the low-end needle should be richened (CCW) 1/16 turn at a time. If the engine spits and sputters before coming up to speed, it is probably still too rich and the low-end needle should be leaned (turned CW) 1/16 turn at a time.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Repeat this test and adjustment until the engine idles smoothly and transitions to the midrange cleanly. Get it as close as you can and then proceed with adjusting the high-end below.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">In general, the low-end needle should be as lean as possible (screwed "in") while retaining the ability to transition smoothly and cleanly from idle to midrange when the throttle stick is advanced quickly. If it hesitates or cuts out then the low-end needle is too lean. If it burbles and sputters before coming up to speed the low-end needle is too rich.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in; page-break-before: always;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">ADJUST THE CARBURATOR HIGH-END:</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 1.5in; text-indent: -1in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Courier New, monospace"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">WARNING!</font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3"> Do not attempt to adjust the engine while it is running. Make all adjustments with the engine stopped and the ignition switched OFF!</font></font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Once the low-end has been adjusted, it is time to adjust the High-end &ldquo;H&rdquo; needle. The idea is to start with the engine running rich at full throttle and then to lean-it-out to the correct setting.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Advance the throttle to full open and listen to the engine. It should be popping on occasion and not running completely smooth. If the engine is running smoothly, then richen the high-end needle (turn CCW) until it is not running smoothly. This is done in order to ensure that the engine is running rich.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Now using a tachometer, lean the high-end needle (turn clockwise) 1/8 turn at a time until maximum RPM is achieved. Let the engine run a bit (5-10 seconds) at each setting so that it comes up to operating temperature at that needle setting. When the needle is turned 1/8 turn and the engine drops in RPM, then the needle has been adjusted too far. At this point richen the needle (turn CCW) about 1/8-1/4 turn and check the RPM to ensure that it is still close to maximum. The trick is to find the needle setting where the engine first reaches maximum RPM and then to back it off (CCW) just a bit. The engine should run smoothly at full throttle.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Now check the idle and transition again and re-adjust the Low-end needle if necessary. If the Low-end is adjusted again, then re-adjust the High-end as described above. Repeat the procedure until the engine is running smoothly at all throttle settings, and the engine accelerates quickly and smoothly from idle.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Listen to the engine in flight. Pull the plane vertical and also fly some loops and listen for the engine &ldquo;sagging&rdquo; or dropping in RPM. If the engine is sagging on vertical lines or going over the top of loops, it is too lean &ndash; richen the High-end needle slightly and try it again.</font></font></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><p align="JUSTIFY" style="margin-left: 0.5in; margin-bottom: 0in;"><font face="Courier New, monospace"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">Note</font></font><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="3">: This is not a glow engine and it is not a good idea to run the engine too rich as it will generate carbon deposits, foul the spark plugs and may cause the piston rings to seize on the pistons.</font></font></font></p>



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