The washer covers the earlier mounting holes. It will be ok. If you feel uneasy fill the outer holes with wood dowel and ca then in place. Wick thin ca onto the dowels from both sides.

Thanks

I was just on Utube and seen 2 vids of the dle30.
one using a 19/8 prop at 17 lbs
The other was a 18/6 w apc prop at 19 lbs of thrust.

I have not checked the pull, but mine is turning the 19x8 Xoar @ 6,600. It is not broken in and still on 32:1 oil. It will take the 72" Yak straight up from now on :-)

david

I am one of the (apparantly) few people that believe an engine manufacturer knows more than I do about the construction of their engine.
I will modify kits and ARFs to suit my wants, but I have built many planes, and have never built an engine. My first gasser, A DLE 30, came with 4 prop bolts and I am very happy to have them. No way am I going to spend more money to get a single shaft adapter. One thing I don't like about my 120 size 4 stroke glow engines is I have to tightening the heck out the prop nut to keep it from slipping. 4 bolts, it isn't going to slip. And why would I want to go with a smaller shaft? For some reason I see nothing wrong with running my engine the way I bought it.
Sure for some, with the tools and experience to modify an engine, or if you are professional contest flyers, go for it, but don't tell everyone else, especially people new to gas that they HAVE to change the engine from the way they bought it.
I also disagree with some that you have to have "Lots of experience" to fly gas. With the planes and engines they have available these days someone could use a gasser as a first trainer. I know people that do. The engines are reliable, the planes fly good. Why try to tell someone they have to make things difficult to have fun?

I guess you can tell I'm a sports flyer. I believe in flying for fun and I don't have to be precise in the way I do it.
I don't mean to sound like I'm running down very experienced people who want to modify their engines for a good reason. I'm just asking, be easy on the new guy who just wants his first flights to be a good experience.

What's easier than putting bolt through a prop and tightening it until it doesn't sip ?
Why have to drill 4 new holes in a new prop that already has a single hole in the center ?
To each his own
FWIW, you can believe it or not, some of us DO know more than the Chinese manufacturers and have been doing it longer...

You missed my point, but that's OK, not worth going over

You just might change your mind when those 4 little 4mm screws shear and the prop comes off...
There would be no questions about how to get sheared bolts out of prop hubs if all engines had singel bolt prop hubs....Our 210cc race twin prop is held on with ONE 3/8-24 grade 8 bolt in the center and uses 2 small studs 180 degrees apart through the spinner backplate and partly into the prop itself...Has never slipped....
Wonder what the G load is on a 31 pitch prop turning 9000 rpm on a plane making 180 degree turns every 5 seconds ?

I don't like the idea of drilling prop hubs (made of ANY material) either, but arguing this point makes about as much sense as saying running plastic props on a gasser is a bad plan.

Geez, plenty of guys going both ways with very good success rates. Why is it so hard to see that done properly, both methods work and there is no right/wrong way? Do as you wish!

I love my single bolt conversion for the DLE 30. No more head aches drilling4 bolt holes and I can use the APC 18/6W with no problems.
Whats more I've hit several tuffs of grass and had 2 prop strikes this summer. So the single prop adaptor and prop have saved me several dollars and If I do have to replace the crank and bearings later it's still been cheaper than all the wood props I would of boughten.
Our bluegrass here in MO you cut it one day and 3 days later you'll have those prop killing tuffs poping up