DemonDean

My Feedback: (4)

Hey Gizmo
The information for the Bing carburetor contact is in this thread. However the costs involved might change your mind. A total rebuild is in the range of $50.00. I have ZDZ60 and went the same route over a year ago. I also had the WJ carb on the engine. Nice carb but finding rebuild kits has been next to impossible. In fact Troy was the only place that did have them. I finally got some great suggestions from Speedy (this thread also). I went to an older Walbro carb that has the same basic parameters as the WJ and has rebuild kits readily available. I have not had the chance to try out my new carb, but hope to by the end of the weekend. Hope this helps.

Dean

Speedy-Gonzales

My Feedback: (202)

The BING line of carbs are a good carb. The only situation you will run into with the BING is parts. They are available but expensive as DEMONDEAN has mentioned. The situation with WALBRO is that the EPA has forced WALBRO to discontinue ( for the most part ) all the really good carbs they ever offered due to emission control.

"Emission control...we have a problem" [:'(] Apollo 13

You can buy 2 complete WALBRO carbs for just the price of parts for the BING. Kind of a "no brainer" here.

The discontinued WALBRO WT-540 ,in my opinion, was THE BEST Walbro carb offered for R/C apps. I have used them on 35cc to 60cc engines and they will feed these displacement engine exceptionally well due to their superior fuel metering capabilities. ZAMA and Tillitson are comparable.

The WALBRO WT-542 ( also discontinued but available ) looks to be another great carb incorporating the the same internal accelerating fuel pump as the WT-540. I have ordered a couple WT-542's from ebay and will give an update once I have bench tested one. Mounting footprint is identical to the BING and WALBRO carbs.

I have been working with DEMONDEAN and he is in the process of testing the WT-542. Hopefully he will post his test results and comments soon.

Rebuild kits are still available for all the Walbro WT series carbs for about $10. If buying a rebuild kit make sure you buy the complete rebuild kit and not just the gasket/diaphram replacement kit.

SPEEDY

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Milton here is how my conversion came out. I didn't go with the large BPMR-6A plugs, I used a new set of BMR-6F plugs as the BPMR-6F have too much reach and will touch the piston. At first I was just doing this as a test when I bought the ignition from you. The Engine is a ZDZ 80 twin and it idled very poorly on the Falcon ignition and I suspected there was a problem with it. It was near impossible to start and would not idle reliably below 2000 rpm. Above that it ran great. I found if I loosened the hall sensor and retarded it after starting I could get the idle down but then would lose power on the top end. Also for some reason it made it harder to start instead of easier. Very strange to say the least.
Anyways when the new Rcexl ignition arrived and I found the BPMR-6F plugs were too long I ordered a set of BMR-6A's from the local NAPA. I got it all set up and found I could not use two of the ZDZ screw holes as the best I could get was 20* btdc. One of the holes would not work as to time it to 28* btdc the hole would end up under the hall sensor. So I took the easy route for the test and used a hose clamp. Which unfortunately shifted a bit causing the sensor to lightly run on the hub. Now my hub has a couple of thin racing stripes. [8D]
Once all was hooked up I gave it a go and it fired right up. Top end was the same 6600 rpm I had with the Falcon. The good part was I could get it to drop down to 1200 rpm and I swear it would sit and idle slow all day. Problem solved, it was something wrong with my Falcon ignition that came with the engine.
I contacted the dealer that I bought it from and said I would like to send the ignition back for him to test. I told him what I had done. Problem is he will not do this. He asked for me to send back the engine with all that came with it as well as the Jtec mufflers I bought for it and they would get it running correctly. I was going to and then I got PO'd. I don't need someone to set up my engine, I already know how to do that and it runs great with another ignition. I'll be damned if I am going to pay about 80 bucks in shipping charges to get told something I already know. So to hell with the warranty. The Falcon ignition is going back in the box to stay and I drilled and tapped a M3 hole to put the Rcexl ignition on for good. The plug caps stick out 1/4" farther on each side than the Falcon ones, but it is going on a Giant Stick anyways so it won't matter. At least it will run the way it should. Sorry if I sound like I an venting a bit, but it kind of ticked me off a bit.

Here is a couple of pics of when I did the test and the Rcexl sensor now properly attached to the engine after I drilled and tapped a hole for it.

BadAzzMaxx

The racing rings give it some class. LOL

I have never been able to figure out Falkon ignitions, A few years back I used to buy them from Amlung in Germany and over a period of time I had to replace all of them.

just wondering why you could not 28 deg without having to drill and tap a new location, Maybe not all ZDZ are the same. ???

Engine is looking good and should give a better performance than the original ignition.


Milton

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

You can get adapters for CM6s but the plug caps won't fit...If you want to trade your RC EXL for a CM6 let me know, I still have a few..
Just put a RC EXL on an EVO 300cc flat four...Hand starts easily, pulls like a mule with my too small Aquila military drone prop......Sounds great, 2 firing impulses every revolution...

The EXL was an earlier version, made in 2007 or 2008 that doesn't have the goofy advance curve...

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Could be. If you look close in the second picture you can just see the edge of the hole under the hall sensor. This is with it timed at 28*. It is nothing to drill and tap a hole when you have the correct tools anyway.

cropduster48

I installed a RCEXL ignition on my super 80-rvj. I had to use a very narrow hose clanp my self. The ignition was a very big improvement. I tried 28 deg, and 25 deg. Finaly settled on 25 deg. Not much diference in performance at all. Idles a little smoother on 25 deg. My engine has the black cylinder, and is susposed to have the better plating on the cylinder wall. The engine is 4 years old now. This winter I installed a new piston ring, and noticed a pretty big ring ledge at the top of the cylinder. That surprised me. I have never had a China cylinder wear like that. I figure I have a defective cylinder, but can`t get any help from the boys at TBM. The old piston ring realy wasn`t worn very much, but the new ring helped. Any one else had this problem? Wonder if the new 90 cc cylinder will bolt on the 80 cc block. Man parts are high for these engines.

BadAzzMaxx

I am in the process of making sensor brackets that will let you install RCexl on ZDZ, 3W and DA and use the existing mounting screws, Will be just about plug and play change over.

Milton

cropduster48

That will be a big help. The stock ignition system has given these engines a bad rap. Too bad. My ZDZ Super 80 is the smoothest running engine I own.

BadAzzMaxx

This is a proto type for DA and 3W

Was going to try and make one fit all but to much difference in ZDZ and DA 3W plus the ZDZ has a larger prop hub than the crank case.

bcchi

Never did understand this timing thing,will you explain it to me.
BCCHI

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Sarcasm noted

cropduster48

I believe the how to do it was explaned earlier in this thread. Its pretty important. I believe in five years I have only checked one engine that was set corectly from the factory. The 3-W engines are pretty good from the factory. None of the china engines are right from the factory. Usualy set too fast. None of these engines like ignition timing set faster than 30 deg. I have checked some set at 38 from the factory. They would not run properly at any RPM. Its decptive as all getout too. You think the carburator is set too rich. Some times that is the case, and it takes a little experience to tell the diference. By going back and reading previous posts, a few of these guys here realy do know what they are talking about. Pay atention to them. They can help you.

cropduster48

I was just looking at somithing I ran across a while back. I own a DLE 170. If you look at the online operator manual for this engine, you will find the timing is susposed to be set at 42 to 43 deg advanced. This has got to be a miss print. I have never had one of these engines that ran that much advance. Most won`t even run right set to 36 deg advance. I run my engine on 25 deg advance. You would have to redrill the mounting holes to set it that far advanced. Every thing else in the manual seems to be right. I am going to see what, if any thing the manual says about the DLE 55

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You may as well throw those DLE manuals put out by Tower away for the many errors they contain or at least take some of the statements with a grain of salt.

All two and four stroke model engines run best in the 28-30 degree before TDC advance range.

If you check the timing advance on a new DLE by turning the prop clockwise against the normal direction the engine runs, you will get a reading of 40 -42 degrees. To find out the true factory setting, rotate the prop in the direction that the engine runs.

Take note that the RCEXL ignition fires as the magnet passes out from under the sensor. That is why you get a different reading going in one direction compared with the other.

cropduster48

I have to agree with you on that one. Thats the only way they could have come up with that figure. Puts a new meaning for the phrase,( backward enginering )
Most of the information I know about these ignitions, and how they work, I picked up from talking with the guys at C&H Ignitions. They are no longer in busness. Do you know if he died. Those guys could make a prop adapter for any thing.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Bill Carpenter of CH ignition still posts on here.

CH ignition now has a new owner

cropduster48

Glad to hear that.

cropduster48

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_xJKmfRDZk
My big AirTractor flying when I had a DLA 112 in it. 132" wing span. 55 LBS.

bcchi

Yes I Died and all I doing now is flying RC airplanesLOL.
No I am very lucky ,they tried to kill me off at the hospital.Had staff in my Sturnum after open heart.This cost me three more major surgeries.Lost my hearing but can still see to fly.
New webb site will be up soon for CH Ignitions. not C&H.
I will post his E mail after I get his permission.
BCCHI
Youll nevr no how little I care. Hi Ralph have not got to fly Syssa yet,no snow but little cold.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

http://www.ch-ignitions.com/

aviator2002

Hi Milton
I am converting my ZDZ 60 to use the rcxel ignition and looking at your photo it looks like the sensor has been turned clockwise and not counterclockwise as I think the screws would have been at the other end of the slots? also why the need to change plugs as the NGK BPMR6A has a larger hexagon which won`t fit my 14mm plug cap on the unit which is ok for the NGK BMR6F plug that I had fitted before the conversion and thought it would be ok to use after? I believe that both these plugs are the resister type so can`t understand why the change is needed?
I am also going to swap ignitions on my ZDZ 50 RV which uses the same plug so would just like to clarify the change before I do as the plug cap on the ignition unit I have for that engine also RCXEL and also 14mm plug cap.

John

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

The BMR-6F plugs work fine. That is what I used in mine, just don't try to use the BPMR-6F as the top of the piston just hits the plug enough to close the gap. It is explained in post 53 above. Just note half way through the post I said I ordered a set of BMR-6A and it should have read BMR-6F. I am not even sure if there is a BMR-6A made.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

It goes without saying that the BMR-6F plugs you used with your Falcon ignition that came with the ZDZ won't work with the RCEXL though as the tops of the plug are ground down. You will need to buy new ones that are not ground down for a ZDZ.

aviator2002

Many thanks super08 that settles it for me. My problem now is to get the engine to start as I have fitted a new carb Walbro WJ71 which all seems fine but as I reported on a separate thread concerning carb problems I still have fuel flowing from the trumpet when I try to start the engine and when I take out the plug it is full of fuel so is obviously getting flooded. Since fitting the new carb all I have managed to get is a short pop from the engine then nothing except the flooding of the plug. I have double checked my timing with a disc and am sure it is 28 BTDC I am just waiting for one of the RCXEL universal hall sensor kits to arrive so that I can fix that to the engine instead if my converted ZDZ unit so that the holes line up for fixing.
While writing this I have just received you reply concerning the plugs endcaps and my unit seems to work with both the ground down one and ones with the extended contact and I have a new unground one so will try that.
John