I am mounting my switches for my first gas plane. Will it be bad to located the ign switch just above the receiver switch? I have it that way now but I am thinking that I might need to move it if there might be a problem with interference. I am still flying with 72.
thanks
Jeff

You wont have any issues. Mount it where its convenient.

Jeff here's some good advise. Please note the uniform advise about the seperation requirements. Dan.

http://www.rcaer.com/userfiles/file/...20Aircraft.pdf

http://www.futaba-rc.com/faq/faq-gas.html

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_86...tm.htm#8673009

Good advice

See what the ignition manufacturer has to say about installation. He may not be the guy who knows best but.....</p>

http://www.v-e.cz/files/ti_en.pdf</p>

Here's what DLE has to say on the subject. Dan.

And another one from RCxel. Dan.

To answer your question again, if you filter out the felgercarb above.

Mounting your switches together won't cause an issue.

If you have a good ignition, radio, and associated components, with components assembled correctly, you can almost stack everything on top of each other and still be fine.

However, do just one thing wrong and be prepared for trouble.

We generally use shielded ignitions, resistor plugs, and no magnetos these days and a lot of the warnings are based upon early days of gas engine use. Of course the safest way is to observe every safety precaustion ever developed but eventually you run out of space and distance, along with C/G allowances, to install components.

The final decision will always be based on the results of the range tests performed before flight.

i guess ive been doing it right all along, unknowingly... i always mount the ignition and receiver switch(es) on opposite sides

yes a range check is a must, i do it with the engine running and plane restrained of-course [8D]

Jeff,
A ground range check with the engine running is not a definitive test that will detect the effects of a poor installation because it may be taking place when the interference is not occurring. Your engine generates a spark around 100 times a second. Each one of those has the potential of containing radio frequency components that fall within the band that your radio is operating in. They radiate around the ignition system as an electromagnetic field and are conducted within all its wires going to and from its batteries and spark plug. By bringing the receiver and ignition switch close together you violate all the advice from the radio manufacturer to isolate the radio components from the ignition system by eight to 12 inches or as much as possible. It is possible to pick up this RF through conduction and radiation. A lot of the guys ignore that by doing what is convenient or less expensive and get away with it. This gives them a sense of security that is very false. This is good because I hate to see guys go in but all you need is a few seconds of sparks that are on your frequency and you will lose control.

There's a lot of advice being dispensed these days based on equipment that hasn't been seen since it debuted with the Flintstones.

As you say, modern equipment and a range check with the engine running go a long way to preventing issues despite repeated admonishments to the contrary.

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="line-height: 115%; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt">Very true dat!Needlessly attempting to adhere to those butt covering recommendations based on antiquated equipment, especially on a smaller gasser will leave you feeling like, </span></p>

Jody knows I fly a Compy 2.6, Yak. It ain't cheap valued about 5 times more (between $5k and $7k) than what most planes flown in this forum run. Needless to say, I'm a bit cautious with the radio installation. The ignition and receiver switches are about 2 inches apart, and I fly it on 72 mHz....

I just went through this with my GW MX2 30 ccer.
I had both my switches up front close to the firewall and when I did a range check I wasn't able to get more than 65 ft.
I had to relocate my RX switch.
I have a futaba 9c with a hitec supreme RX on Nimhs.
main thing to do is range check.
If your not getting a 100 ft with a collasped ant don't fly
I end up with a 15 ft difference beteewn the engine running and stopped 150/135 ft

The thing to heed here is the main rule in training:</p>

"do as I say, not what I do"

</p>

We all do things that we know we should not do, because there is a fighting chance we get away with what we do. BUT, if someone asks my advise, I tell him what he should do, and not what I do.</p>

Good point, but I do practice what I preach

As do I.

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With only having 1 gasser under my belt, I am not the guy to take advise from, but these are on valleyview website (home of the great one) and if he is willing to stand by them, then I am willing to put one in my next build.  I bought my DLE 20 from Jody and plan on being a return customer on larger engines when the time comes.

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<font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="5" color="#003366">Just arrived, dual switches with fuel dot, great for gas airplanes</font></p></div>

The dual switches do work great but I don't use them the way you might think. On 50cc and smaller planes I use one battery and one switch that turns on everything, Rx and ignition. Larger planes that use two batteries and a dual switch, each switch turns on one battery, my ignitions are all powered from my Rx. (T.O.M. does not approve of this practice ) There are plenty of people though that do use one switch for the Rx and the other for their ignition.

I have put them next to each other using the dubro switch mounts thru the fuse side right next to each other, HOWEVER, I have had a problem once.. I had the ignition and receiver switches next to each other and after 600 or so flights, when I started the plane up and was doing a run up the receiver quit working and the motor started missing.. Upon investigation the ignition had had a a broken wire internally and there was a spark intermittanly jumping from the ignition switch to the receiver switch.. With high voltage strange things can happen... I can tell you that there is NO WAY IN HECK I would run the power and ignition switches to a common aluminum(ie conductive) mount..

This should help. Here's an RCxel instruction sheet I found that includes a paragraph about mounting their ignition module. Dan.

what method do you use to power up the ignition from the receiver? i bought a 42% product and ignition regulator for my profile yak, and i couldnt get it run off the receiver alone....i rigged a male to male loop to power it up but i range checked and got a ton of fades.... i ended up using 2 batts ohh well

I've used several methods but I stopped using the 42% Productsignition regulator and opted for a diode instead, lots less wire to mess with. On the last couple I've built (a 50cc MX2, a 100cc Yak 55m, and a 40% clipped wing Cub)I used the Rcexl optical switch, on the instruction sheet, if you use a magnifying glass you'll be able to read the instructions for a simple mod that will turn it into an IBEC. It doesn't regulate voltage though so you still need the diode, no need for the extra male/male extension to connect to the Rx. Range tests to over 150' with engine running at all RPMs with my Airtronics S10G. That set up will get over 150 flights this summer for test, so far abouta dozen flightsand not so much as a singleglitch.

my next gasser will definitely incorporate a true IBEC i think i saw a good one on the syssa website