Fflier9

My Feedback: (4)

Hello, I have a couple questions on how to mount my DLE 30 fto a 25% Sukoi. The airplane is from a manufacturer called Goldwing and has no instruction manual. My questions right now are:
1.) Do you typically build in any right thrust with washers? Down thrust?

and

2.) How tight should the prop screws on the spinner hub? Any threadlock necessary?

More will probably follow. Thank you for your help.

dave de

My Feedback: (12)

From what I understand, some manufactures build engine thrust into the engine mount & others dont. It cant hurt to use thread lock on prop bolts & its a good idea

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

There is right thrust built into the engine box,do not use loctite on the prop bolts, 30 in. lbs.. Here is a manual for your plane.

http://www.goldwingrc.com/upload/edi...59.58_5777.pdf

Fflier9

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do you guys balance the hub, prop, and spinner as one unit or seperately?

Razor Hobbies

My Feedback: (50)

Depends on the the item.

You balance individually.

But it depends on the manufacturer. Most spinners come pre balanced so there should be no need to balance a spinner. A manufacturer of spinners to look at are Tru-Turn. They are a great company and they make a great product. We carry those in our store.

Props are a hit or miss. However Xoar Props tend to come balanced. Zinger be prepared to balance the prop.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Do not EVER use offset mounting legs on a lugged engine. Best never to do it with any engine. Offset mounts place a cconsiderable side loading on the mounts, eventually breaking them off.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

If you must offset the engine bolt the standoffs to a 3/16 aluminum plate(TIGHTLY) with a large hole in the middle to save weight,then offfset the plate.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I have found spinners that are out of balance can vibrate considerably. While some may be able to get them balanced, the small diameter makes it pretty tough. I prefer to just start with a high quality, pre cut spinner that comes balanced. Like Tru Turn. More expensive but definately worth it.

Fflier9

My Feedback: (4)

OK. engine is mounted and looks good.
Now for the fuel tankis there any objection to using a three line setup: carb, vent out the bottom of the aircraft, and the last one to a fuel dot?

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

That's the best way to go...

AV8TOR

Fflier9

My Feedback: (4)

ok that's how I did it.

first start went well and I got it roughly tuned. There is a ton of vibration though. I haven't balanced the prop yet, however I will now. Anything else I should watch for?
Feels like the plane is going to come apart at the seams when that thing is running.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Probably too rich, but balance that prop and spinner.

AV8TOR

Fflier9

My Feedback: (4)

That's what I was thinking. It's my first gas engine and I only ran it for about 5-10 min, but it seems like it might be drifting in and out of 4 stroking. Will balance the rotating masses

Tired Old Man

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Jody,

You're going to enjoy this one....

captinjohn

He eats torque rolls for breakfast....that should indicate.....no problem!!!!!!!!!!!

Fflier9

My Feedback: (4)

It's been a while since I did a torque roll....[X(]

Although I can tell you that a torque roll is a piece of cake compared to doing piro flips on the deck with a helicopter. can't wait to get this plane in the air

Fflier9

My Feedback: (4)

If the engine is bumping through the midrange, does this mean it's too rich or too lean? The transitions are excellent however I think both needles are still a little rich. I plan to fly it like this for a few gallons, sans cowel.
If I put it at, say 1/3 or 1/2 throttle it will bump, or fire (don't know how to describe it) every few seconds.
Also, how much black oil is normal to be on the plane after flying?> I'm using 40 to 1 synthetic oil

captinjohn

TOM...Tired Old Man.....likes to answer all oil related questions!

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Why would anyone want to run an engine UNTUNED that bad for 2 gallons ???
Dang, guys, carbs are not rocket science...Do a search..

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I'm breaking in and tuning one or two new engines every day. There's no way I can run an untuned engine and there's no way I can break in an untuned engine. On the stand, start it up, tune it for peak performance, and run it through the cycles until it's done. Every engine I do will run like a banshee within the first 3 minutes of running time and just get better from there.

If the engine is coughing and spitting in the mid and low range, it's low needle is still too rich. Black stuff is normal. That's all the break in metals leaving the engine.

It's not a glow engine so don't treat it like one, which is what you intend to do from indications in your last post.

Fflier9

My Feedback: (4)

Flew the plane three times. It flies well, however on the third flight had a dead stick on takeoff. Landed in some weeds and broke the prop and cracked the engine box, which, from what I read about the plane, needed to be reinforced anyway. After investigation, I found that the clunk line had become lodged forward in the tank and was sucking air when it climbed (I made the line too short).

How many of you are tapping the carb with a pressure nipple, and running it inside the firewall to let the carb "breathe"? Someone strongly recommended this, and I was wondering how common it really was. The engine is still way to rich.
Also, how much will the tuning change when I install the cowel?

Thanks

RoyR

I have trouble understanding why people have to make things more difficult.
I too just bought my first Gas, a DLE 30, and am running it on a Sbach.
I looked through the boards to get some ideas, like many people do and realized this should be much simpler than breaking in a glow engine.
For Me the simplest and easiest gas tank installation was a T on the fuel line going from the tank to a fuel dot to fill the tank, and then straight to the engine. I used a vent line running over the tank to keep it from siphoning out, and I usually keep gas in the tank rather than emptying it after every day’s flight.
Within the first tank (not gallon) of gas I had the engine tuned with a good transition from idle to full throttle. My next tank was in the air the way I will be flying it from now on. Cowling and all. I have over a gallon through it now. I see no reason to fly without a cowling if you have adequate ventilation. That’s what I liked about the DLE, as soon as you have it running you can go fly and do the rest of the break-in in the air.
The engine runs great.
I have read other posts where people modify the choke. Why? I have left everything stock. Most of my starts are 4 or 5 flips of the prop with the choke on, then choke off and it usually starts within 1 or 2 flips.
Fortunately I missed the advice to “tap the carb” so I don’t have something else to worry about

Like they say, it’s not rocket science. All the difficulty has been designed out of these engines. Fly them the way they were bult.
Of course if someone’s interest is fiddling with engines for a couple of months, then by all means have at it. But if you just like to fly, take the easy way out. You don’t have to overthink things. Put your engine in and fly.