mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

Ok, I have a older 540T Edge I don't fly anymore becouse I hate the $$$ of nitro.

Anyways, Im going to start useing this bird as a test platform for my new/used gas motors before they go in to my Big $$$ birds.

I have a TGY52 CC I got from Hobbyking for $126 shipped, So I fig I would give it a try, but Before I put it in something nice I want to see if it works in the sky as well as it dose on the ground on my motor stand.

I don't want to hack up this bird more than need be, and I would like to make a 3/8 spacer with a slight angle to strighten the angle of the muffler.

I don't see any reasone why I can not use a peace of hard wood, use a thick gasget on both sides.

I know gas motors run hotter than most, but I rember as a kit putting pots in the oven at 450 with wood handles on them.

Am I crazy?

I know Alummunum is better, but I just don't have the fab tools needed to make this. At one time I did, but not anymore.

So the question is wood be safe?

I don't see it spontanously combusting, as most muffs have a tone of oil resude and its not flashing on fire.


Please don't flame Me, LOL Im just trying to use what I got.

Thanks Mike

exeter_acres

My Feedback: (2)

I'm lost....

wood as a gasket in the exhaust? or am I mis-reading something?

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

I need to move the muffler away from the head about 3/8 or a little more than a 1/4in to clear the fire wall, I want to use wood as a spacer between the head and the muffler with a gasket between the wood..

karolh

Wood will NOT work unless you plan on doing some cooking Use a piece of alum. plate to make the required spacer and use some Hi Temp Red Silicone instead of gaskets.

Karol

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with Karol. You are making a huge mistake if you use wood.

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

Apart from potential issues with heat, wood will compress and the muffler bolts eat out the threads in your cylinder head with the muffler falling off soon enough.
One should never underestimate the power of vibration genetared by a 52cc engine

captinjohn

Make sure you add a brace to your muffler on the 52cc engine to prevent viabration problems...............also you can get a heat shield at a small engine repair shop that will work with a little work!

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

you don't have a drill a hack saw and some files? that's all the tools you would need to make an aluminum version, same as with wood...

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

That 450 oven can't hold a candle for 800+ degree exhaust to run by. This should prove interesting, if not entertaining, especially if the engine is tuned lean.

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

In other words, it wouldn't be a wood adaptor, but a brown coal adaptor - that disintegrated from the vibration

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

You wouldn't need a smoke system.

MetallicaJunkie

cheese makes a good gasket

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

I don't know what's funnier, the original post or the replies!

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I don't find any of it funny. Tragic might be more appropriate. The thought process that went into the original question, and more than a few other posts elsewhere in this forum, illustrate a lack of subjective reasoning beyond comprehension.

karolh

So very true.

Karol

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I must share a wood combustion tale with you guys.

I was molding a thinner strip of white oak. I had steamed it and was clamped between two band sawn molding blocks.

I was looking at the combustion temperature of the wood in Machinery's Hand book. 450 F

I set the oven to 375 F degrees F.

Waited 45 minutes to check on it.

The jig and the piece was burned to a crisp!

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

Thanks guys,

Well the wood did what I needed, just toget the motor running, and to make sure there were no othere issues before putting on the cowl etc...

The wood made a nice templet to make the correct adapter out of allumum, as the wood was way easyer to sanda little, trail fit, then sand somemore.

But I could not find so alummum as thick as I wanted so I had to make 2 spacers and stack them togeather. ( Wich is no fun with just a drill and file.)

Well I know know this was a bad Ideal. I thought exsaust temps on these motors never got above 300 so I that was my fatal flaw, was lack of knowlage.

No If I can get this motor to run better I would be a happy camper.

So Not to start another post but Im correct in my thinking that you can not get all the burble out of a gas motor?

What are the signs of a to lean low end?

I was following the guid lines,

Get running, tune the H side, then slowly pull back on power, and when it starts to burble/4 stroke lean the low side.

But I just want to make sure Im not over leaning the low side as it seem to take a lot to get it to almost stop.


Thanks Mike

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

The burbal depends on the engine itself and the manufacturer carb sizing, along with internal carb components. Many engines have no trouble eliminating the burbal. The lower priced engines often cannot make that statement because of production and assembly decisions that priortized cost instead of performance.

A lean low needle exhibits a throttle up stumble and/or a very slow throttle down.

goirish

TOM
is gas engine different than glow.. Normally in glow a rich low end creates a stumble on throttle up and a low end lean produces a rather sudden stop during throttle up.

rexbirk

Goirish,

As a 35 year glo engine user I found that gas engines are a different breed. Not hard, just different. My glo mixture adjustment experience led me astray. Unlike glo you dont want to back off of peak 300 to 400 rpm. If you do you will get burbling. From what I read you want to be between the lean drop off and the rich drop off. Just in the middle. Seems to have worked for me. There are a lot of good carb adjustment procedures here and in Flyinggiants.

The low end mixture also effects the high end so you need to go back and forth in the beginning. I would use the manufacturers needle settings to start and work from there.

You will also find that on some installations the mixture will change with the cowl on. I have two planes that richened up a lot with the cowl on. Turned out I had to make changes to the air intakes on the cowl. I blocked off the scale inlets on either side of the spinner. The Walbro is sensitive to air currents over its vent hole or a cowl that becomes pressurized during flight due to excessive intake area or too little cowl air outlet area. You need 2 to 3 times more outlet area than intake area in the cowl.

Once you get used to them the gas motors are great! They are also very cheap to run! Still love my YS Four Strokes but boy are they expensive to run!

Not sure all my figures are accurate but they will get you close.

rexbirk

I was reading some of the posts in this thread and had a thought. If someone is asking for information about something they are considering then everyone should try to help, not criticize or make fun of them. Many of us old timers (myself included) at times wonder why people ask questions that we feel everyone should know the answer to. I have noticed that many of the people I help train now have very little technical knowledge of engines and electronics. That's just the way it is now. The old timers have an opportunity to pass along the knowledge that we have learned from the school of hard knocks.

I would venture to say that the vast majority of those coming into our hobby today have very little to no knowledge of an internal combustion engine. Fuel mixtures, ignition timing, battery charging and so on are foreign to them. They way I see it we are the ones that need to pass on the knowledge so to speak. This is probably why the ready to fly electrics are so popular.

Just ponder what I have said. I'm off my soap box now.

Clean

It's not in stock but I had a link somewhere to a flexible muffler header, pipe that fit the TGY - 52 and I thought it was sold by HK.  Take a look.

Course, that's another 60 or so for the item and whatever for shipping if/when they get it in.