Hi guys, I've been reading through a lot of threads looking for a cure for my glitching problem on my DLE55. I have plenty of range engine off, but running I can only go 10 or 15 paces and everything goes crazy. I have isolated all the ignition components far away from any radio, but my question is this, when pushing the plug cap on, it bottoms out against the plug where it will not go any further, but still is not a veyr snug fit, and also there is a small gap left between the 2 halves of the cap, and the snap ring is on it. Is it possible that this could be the source of my problem? Also, is it possible the ignition box itself could be causing this? I read somewhere about grounding the module to the engine, but the box is plastic. Thanks for any ideas, Michael

Put a skinny hose clamp around your cap

Do you have a real NGK CM6 plug on your DLE 55?

Yes it is the real NGK CM6, and I did try the hose clamp but no change. Thanks

What about the integrity of the plug wire? Cap to wire? Wire braid? Wire to ignition box?

The next thing is to consider the throttle servo. RF can get into your servo signal wire and travel all through the radio system. Servo location? Different model servo?

Servo throttle rod - non metallic?

Metal to metal connections vibrate and cause RF? No metal to metal connections on throttle linkage?

Is the plug cap going down all the way till it completely covers the hex of the spark plug? Is the coiled grounding spring inside the plug cap?

Does it go down onto the hex of the spark plug, or does it stop before the hex?

Basic ignition system trouble shooting checks.

Wires, switches, connectors, batteries, cap security, correct spark plug, mechanical fastener security, metal to metal contacts on throttle linkage, plug wire worn through inside the cowl or burnt on a muffler. 99.9% of the time it's something you did or old equipment you used that has been through a crash or two or used in 10 other planes and is now worn out. Any wire extension that came from Tower is always a suspect when I have a problem. An extension from Futaba, JR, Hitec, and Cermark are always a safe bet.

Thanks for the replies guys, before I posted here I completely removed the throttle pushrod, unplugged all but one servo from the receiver, took the reciever out and held it in my hand as far away from the ignition as the remaining servo wire would allow(18" or so), tried another receiver and transmitter, took the ignition module out and held it in my hand, plugged the rx pack directly into rx to bypass switch, plugged ig batt straight into ignition, and the grounding spring is in the cap. I bought the engine from someone local, but it had never been installed in a plane. Thanks again

From your first post it seems the cap is not pushed all the way down. Use a twisting pushing motion, and push down HARD so the cap moves over and beyond the plug hex. Then is when the two cap halves close up again.

I know what you're saying, I'm sure it is going past the hex, it bottoms out on the cylinder, but theres still a gap. I can close the gap with the hose clamp, but the interference is still there. Thanks

Is your plug cap for a CM6 plug? If it is for a taller plug, it might bottom on the head and leave a gap at the topfor RFI to form. If the cap goes over the plug hex, it will normally cause a small gap. I had to wrap an ignition in metal one time. Get a magnetic tin can(not aluminum) and wrap it around the ignition. I used tin snips to fit it. Then solder a wire to the shield and ground it to the motor.

how old is this DLE55 and more important the module?? what is the condition of the wire braiding on the spark plug lead??? is this wrapped in spiral platsic wrap or such likeanywhere it rubs on the cowl or anything.....

He bought the engine 5 mos ago but never used it, so everything is new. The only times I have tried to run it didn't even have the cowl on. I'm assuming it's the right cap for the plug since it was the ignition that came with the engine. I have looked at the braiding all the way down and can't see anything. I had thought of taking a small spring like a ink pen and put in the bottom of the cap to make sure it contacts the top of the plug. Thanks

If the plug cap bottoms out on the cylinder, it's either the wrong plug cap or there's something really wrong with the correct cap. Maybe a picture or two could help. If the plug cap is installed all the way, the spring is touching the end of the plug.

OK, I'll get a couple of pics on here tonight when I get home. Thanks for the help