When working correctly, the only time fuel should get past the meetering needle is when the engine is turning over and pulsing the diaphram. Remember the needle is spring loaded and mechanically connected to the diaphram. Sure the fuel resivoir holds some but it's such a small amount it would be almost imossible to notice. I have found that most of the guys having this issue are not filtering their fuel enough and the bottleneck for debris other then the screen is the meetering needle. I always run a felt clunk and a good quality filter. I have found a neat little lawn and garden filter at Kragens. The fittings are a little large but if you warm up your lines with a heat gun they will slip on. Of course you need to put the filter in front of your fil line.

They wont drip when parked. They will however drip if choked and bumped/flipped with the carb down. I should have mentioned that in my post to avoid confusion. The fuel will rather drip down and out than move up and enter the engine. Plain physics.

I have been hesitant to post because I do not own a DLE-111. However I do own a DA-100. Here are my thoughts.

1. It sounds to me that the needles are set up on the lean side. Here is why I believe this may be your issue. You stated it runs fine for awhile, then it does not accept your throttle response from the transmitter then eventually dies. Am I correct?

2. If the above is correct. I would like you to check a couple of things.

3. open both the low end and high end needles about 1/8th of a turn. (about a flat tip blades width) and try again.

4. I am assuming this is a new engine. Even so check the tightness of the carb to the block and ensure it is tight and no leaks are present. DONOTGORILLAtighten. Just make sure it is snug.

5. Ensure all of your fuel lines are snug and free of air leaks.

6. IMPORTANT. make sure your spark plug boots are correctly seated on your spark plugs. You may think they are but double check and ensure they are seated all the way.

I really suspect you are simply just too lean. So it may just be a simple carb adjustment. Do not fear opening up the needles. A new engine is going to need some ground run time and now is the time to open the needles up a little and then adjust them after the engine is running dependably. Once you can get the engine to run and accept throttle input on the ground then adjust the needles leaner after you have some time on the engine. Remember, it does not take a lot of needle adjustment on a gasser.

Good luck and keep us informed.

Thanks to all for your extremely valuable help and comments.<div>
</div><div>I replaced the ignition for an older one, even though I had checked that mi ignition was not one of the included in the message posted before, and I had spark and the engine eventually popped, so I just did it for kicks.</div><div>
</div><div>My engine is running great now. I just had to flip it twice to get it to fire up, and it's working great.</div><div>
</div><div>Again, thank you.</div>

So are you saying the ignition was your problem.

Milton

Not too long ago I had something similar to this happen to me. I had an engine that acted like it was lean, and cold starts were a *****. You had to start it numerous times before it would keep running. It really sounded and acted like a "lean" problem, but I had diagnosed that it wasn't. Finally I tried another ignition module, and the engine operated perfectly. I ran this by Bill from CH Ignitions, and he said to try a 6 volt pack on the bad ignition. Sure enough, on 6 volts it worked fine. He said that sometimes a weak ignition will do that.... (The unit was a new RCEXL.)

AV8TOR

Seems to be a few RCExcel isues appearing on the forums recently. I hope it isn't an indication of quality levels heading south as they have been a darned good product up to now.

Yeah, kind of scary.... You sure never heard of problems like this with Bill's CH units.

AV8TOR