Whistling Death

I have never has a single stopper style tank fail because of methanol blends. Just like modern carburetors don't fail because of methanol blends.
There is no "this is now the best way to set a gasser fuel tank" but just what's the new thing everybody is doing. I'm not surprised you saw everyone using the same setup on the fuel system at a 3D event.
If you set up the "old hat" process properly you will be just fine.
I'm certainly not saying this latest and greatest isn't a good idea because it is. I'm just saying the stopper tanks aren't broke just because of what they do at 3D events.

Hibrass

My Feedback: (1)

I have to admit I use barbs and zip ties on everything... The real trick that has been touch on a bit. It to use something as heatsink between the stopper and the barb you are soldering... I use a big aligator clip. But most importantly make sure your Iron is at max temp and tinned before you put it to your barb. I little flux on the barb and tube joint and touch your tinned iron to the joint and the just hold it in one spot until the flux sizzles and then you we see the tinned solder flow into the joint. As soon as it starts to flow pull away an let cool completely before doing the other end of tube or move to the next tube depending on your line setup... Hope this helps...

Ed "I solder everything." Harley

Hill202

My Feedback: (24)

If you ever try a Fortitude fuel tank, I promise you'll never use anything else. No soldering and the line that comes with them has to be cut off once its put on.

http://www.aerographix.biz/fuel_tanks.htm

Desertlakesflying

My Feedback: (28)

I've been using these tanks for 3D and everything else for a few months now and I love it.

http://jandlproducts.stores.yahoo.net/rofusy1.html

As far as soldering goes, use No-Korode soldering flux in the black and white can. Make sure it's regular and not water soluble.

ec121

My Feedback: (2)

I use the next size of tubing to make barbs. Stick a drill bit in the end and roll the tubing with a razor knife. You can make them as wide as you want. Then solder the piece on the tubing. Doesn't make a big thick barb type of connection but enough to provide a little more diameter/friction. I only do this when I'm not in a hurry. The rest of the time I use zip ties or wire.

tande

My Feedback: (48)

[/quote]
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IMHO, the notion of taking a piece of rubber & cramming it in a hole, then apply squeezing pressure to both sides in the hope that it doesn't leak, is about as primitive as it gets.....then again there are people that still think the "Model A Ford" was the best automobile ever built.....sure glad somebody came up with a better idea! ...

spinkgi

My Feedback: (36)

Here's a different way of keeping fuel lines attached. idea that's been around for a long time and works well.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I have used the doublers in the past and they work well though with Tygon I have, at times, used a larger size for the doubler.

BadAzzMaxx

The simple solution

Cut a small piece of fuel tubing and stretch it with a pair of needle nose pliers, While still in the pliers put it over your fuel tubing, After it sets for a few hrs you will have to cut it to get it off


Milton

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Or use Hays molded neoprrene, small size, no barbs needed...

captinjohn

Guess you know someone will make it more complicated...that is about the best way too!

oldtyme

[/quote]
IMHO, the notion of taking a piece of rubber & cramming it in a hole, then apply squeezing pressure to both sides in the hope that it doesn't leak, is about as primitive as it gets.....then again there are people that still think the ''Model A Ford'' was the best automobile ever built.....sure glad somebody came up with a better idea! ...
[/quote]



This doesn't even deserve a comment...............[:-]

nikonlarry

I got the PSP fuel tank kit for the Fuji bottles. It came with the double barb cap, Vtion hose, brass pipe, weighted clunk with Viton on the end and a brass barb. Also for the vent it came with a single barb vent pipe and gasket etc.