ke6gkc

I fly with a 9c and it is a great transmitter. Just go into expo and set a curve on channel three, no mixing or switches to mess with. I do agree a high/low idle switch is a good idea. I use both of these on a DLE 30 powered YAK 54. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Bruce

ameyam

Its actually very simple. All you need to do is to ensure that having selected the mix you want (Throttle to aux2 in my case), you enable the mix and set the switch allocated to the nix to null. That way the mix will be on all the time

I prefer to have a fixed idle rather than using idle up- that way the idle is constant no matter what the switch positions and if you need a higher flying idle you just keep the throttle a bit more open. The way I have set the idle now is that there is really no thrust at idle and I reduced the trim to the point that the engine would cut-off when throttle cut was pressed (I had to open the end-stop screw for that)

Bruce, how did you set up the throttle curve on channel3 without going through a mix?. I already have (i think) 90% expos on my throttle so there is little point in adding more expo

Regarding the throttle geometry, I need to start with the servo nearly horizontal at idle stick and at that point the carb arm should be just open, right?

Ameyam

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

On the bold, I think you have it, but the carb arm should be closed (just). Get it close, then finish with end point adj. if you need it. The other thing, once you get your geometry set up, your expo will not be near as necessary? You may have to cut way back on that. This monkey motion you're setting up with the geometry is going to take care of most of what you need?

raydar

First set your tx throttle trim right down as far as it will go.

Make sure you have extended the length of the carb arm as far as you can, use the extension provided by dle, or make one or buy a after market one , does not matter how you do it as long as it gets done.

Fit the throttle servo arm on the throttle servo so it points directly at the extended carb arm hole/connection point when the carb is at full closed position with idle screw removed.

Now connect your linkage arm to this exact length making sure you do not move the carb from its stop or the servo arm from its pointingdirectly at the carb arm hole/connection position.

Set your throttle trim to mid point now, start your engineand admire your perfect throttle set up.

Go to the field and laugh at every one else who iscomplaining how uncontrollable/unreliable gas engine idles are and amaze them with your smooth low power throttle control.

ameyam

Hi,

after much trial and error with the nyrod pushrod setup yesterday, I replaced it with a 2-56 pushrod in the same sleeve and was finally able to adjust the throttle ok. Turns out that the problem is that the nyrod would flex inside the sleeve. This being a glow conversion model, there are no intermediate supports betheen the throttle servo and the carb. The flexing kept making our curve setup go awry yesterday. We still needed to use 100% expo on the throttle to get around the ignition curve. We couldnt use the throttle curve mix because the throttle cut wouldnt work then. The experienced club member helped me out in the setup.

I have the phenolic throttle arm installed and I flipped it over so that the throttle is pull-to-open, so any flex is only at the idle. I also have a ball link installed on the phenolic arm and on the throttle servo side I used a heavy duty (meaning larger) EZ connector which is firmly screwed in. I used a nylon washer with some epoxy on the backside of the servo arm so the EZ connector wont come off, its a well tested setup.

Having done all of this and flying without the cowl for just one flight today (horse races meant flying was curtailed), the airplane had become a docile flier. Its a Phoenix Extra 60-90 64'' and I just replaced the rudder screw-in type horns (which kept bending over when I tightened the rudder cable) with Dubro Heavy duty T-type horns. With this setup the model flies nicely, inspiring confidence, the tail wagging in KE flight is gone. I fact I was doing figure-8s in the first flight itself (flying considerable away and high from the others) and I did the landing without the customary shaking of my thumbs and without someone having to talk me down as I usually do with a new setup. If anything, I actually had a 'lack of power' at the stick position I was flying in the last month or so - the same power was now much higher in the stick. I fact, I had a bouncy landing in that, when it began to stall in approach and I added power, power came after I bounced. Luckily, 3.5" wheels meant a spread landing gear (which I promptly pressed back in shape) and no damage. I think I will reduce the throttle Expo a bit to ensure I have the power when I ask for it

One thing we did notice though, if you idle for 4-5 seconds at around 2000 RPM(idle), the engine then drops to 1700rpm on its own. Whats this?

Ameyam

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Go back to post #17. You're issues match these pretty much exactly. You've dealt with the throttle linkage piece of it, but not the mixture. If the low speed needle is adjusted rich enough, the "dropping" thing you're now taking about will be minimized (hesitating/hanging for just a second) or eliminated. Adjusting that LS mixture is a 2 step thing, as when you adjust the mixture a little richer, you'll also need to bump the idle trim to compensate for the lower idle the richer mixture is going to create. This adjustment, along with your linkage adjustment already made, should leave you good to go.

ameyam

I am not sure this is a mixture problem. It doesnt hesitate when you increase or reduce throttle. Only if you idle for 5 seconds or so it suddenly drops RPM. Even from there it accelerates fine. Just that it drops. Also, after it dropped like that I had it deadstick once on the ground.

Nonetheless, I will again check it on Saturday WOnt be able to run it in between. I wish someone would tell me how to resolve the covering issue though...


Ameyam

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

{mainly for others in this msg thread, not you Bill}.......

Work arounds have been posted numerous times, such as correctly set LS/HS needles, throttle linkage geometry set properly, idle set to 1700-1800 rpm, or a two stage idle off a tx switch. Granted that no one knows why DLE intentionally keeps on installing such a bizarre ign curve (#4 on case cover), but it's NOT the big issue some try making it.

Having made note of all the above, here's a video showing this issue....

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdZl40bE3DE[/youtube]

raydar

Thats horrendous, I have never flown a dle 20 but if that is how it acts I would not be happy. I am going to get a dle 20to compare it to my rcg 20s but if it acts like that I will swap out the ignition.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

It's REALLY NOT that bad, but some think so. That particular video isn't how mine run.

With correct idle, LS/HS mix set, and correctly set linkage, you really do NOT notice it.
Both of my DLE20's run just fine and I don't have the problems with them that only a few have.

Besides, if ya feel the need to swap out modules, you just upped the price by at least $60, making yours cost more than a DLE30!
So much for needless cost.

raydar

Well I have just ordered a sbach 65 inch profile, will fit out with a dle 20. Always fancied the 20cc profile after seeing your success with your aeroworks model. Tried to get the same airframe but near impossible in uk without special order and price. Will fit a pegusus rcg ignition from hobbyking at $29if I have any issues. Not paying $60 dollars for a rexel, I have a few rexels lying about for my 30cc dle motors and they dont do anything better than the rcg/pegusus units do. And if I sound cheap saying that, bear in mind the "cheap" profile and dle 20 I have ordered in the uk costs me $600 dollars.

http://madabout-rc.co.uk/20CCgasARF.aspx

Anyway feel like im highjacking a thread so i apologize.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Big ouch!
Sometimes ya just gotta do what ya gotta do!

ameyam

I had two days of flying this weekend. Initially, I had a lot of trouble with controlling the sink rate at landing. When I added power to control altitude, it would react late and just bounce, power would come in after it had already hit. Luckily, the aluminium LG absorbed the shock

Today, I was just getting to terms with the throttle and getting used to the high throws when the engine cut in successive flights when doing a loop. I has seen it lose power and struggle in the upward section before the deadstick and was thinking that this was due to insufficient airspeed or mistake on my part so I persisted with the loops. On the second deadstick, it was just my first loop. It flew fine till then, (rolling and figure-of-8 flying only) and even went to 60% power at takeoff at a 30 or so degree angle that we typically use . Both times after the deadstick I had to land heavy and downwind so after the second flight, the LG was nearly flat. Needless to say, that was that for the day.

After coming back home, I opened everything. Fuel tank is OK, no stuck clunk. There is a lot of blackning on the engine from some leakages (I am using Klotz, I think 1:30). I discovered a cut in the carb line but I am not sure that it was caused before or during this overhaul. Anyway, I cut off the nicked section and reinstalled the engine

Another thing I checked was the carb filter. There wasnt anything in the filter fabric but there was a lot of crud in the recessed circular part towards the head. I dont think there is any way to back flush this so I just cleaned it with come cotton buds, reinstalled the filter fabric and reinstalled the carb.

I am also attaching a video of the piston side, just to confirm everything is ok. (I should have used a better camera)

http://youtu.be/1Sdx2rSYDu4

Subsequently I started the engine and after a bit of trimming I had her idling at 1700rpm. I hadnt touched the needles after factory and I cant run WOT indoors so I slowly closed the LSN at idle. Surprisingly it went all the up to 4000rpm (onboard tach) before I got spooked and returned it to the originally setting. So my questions:

1) Any idea what caused the throttle to cut in the upward part of the loop?

2) Are there any other variables (besides the needles which I can only set of Saturday now) that I can eliminate from the setup? Did I need to clean anything else/ any other way / do anything else to the carb?

3) How do I set the LSN?

Remember, I still have problems with the engine reacting late to the throttle at this needle setting. Without expo, the throttle would over-react to small power increase so we had to add 100% expo and now I have the opposite problem. I did drop my expos to 90% and that did help a bit today

Ameyam